Jump to content

Project: S9 Progress Thread 2014 - RAD


Recommended Posts

So this is the first pass at the new 8 String S9 Multiscale.
It is going to be 26-28" with Dual Diablo Multiscale Blade humbuckers. I am planning on adding single coils blades as well as hot rails style blades as an option. I plan on starting the first prototype soon.
This is not a technical drawing but a quick sketch.
S9 8 String Chronos Multiscale
EightString_2014-01-02-Full-REV3-Model-M
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After the slots we switch bits to a .125 4 flute mill and cut the nut slot and lock bed. Then switch bits to a .25 4 flute mill and cut the outside profile. Cutting top down helps prevent some problems I was having with chipping the fretboard sides on the final passes. I don't really care about anything past about .25 down from the fretboard. So if the bit chatters and gets rough with the bottom that doesn't matter as it is removed in the neck shaping process.

IMG_20140112_113131_zpskyxktozl.jpg

IMG_20140112_113228_zpsu8eegwy5.jpg

IMG_20140112_132339_zps0dxlxqz0.jpg

IMG_20140112_132344_zpsaj8coljj.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The locking mechanism shelf fits nice. I am not sure I am going to leave the excess wood on the sides. For now it helps with positioning. I hate zero frets so there will be a nut.

IMG_20140112_132649_zpsbf21g5sd.jpg

IMG_20140112_132653_zpsesv3o8rn.jpg

Still working on side dots by hand. I really need to make a template for doing this.

IMG_20140112_135945_zpszkxkwc1n.jpg

IMG_20140112_135952_zpsnibhneyy.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally getting the body blank finished up for the wookie 7 string. This thing is like an epoxy sandwich. You can see where the epoxy flowed through the pores of the Mahogany. It is seriously heavy right now. It is still thick at 37mm I will cut it down to 34mm or so once I get it off the CNC.

IMG_20140111_170417_zpsn4tdnrlr.jpg

IMG_20140112_102300_zpsasirb7vs.jpg

IMG_20140112_102318_zpsweg3qqvj.jpg

IMG_20140112_102326_zpsjrlpcblo.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My vise in a vise holder. I promised to show this a little more in detail. There is nothing to it really just a 2x4 pillar with a 2x4 top. It is held together with left over epoxy from gluing blanks together (better than wasting it).

You can see that it fits in the bench vise through the lead screw and guides. And it has an extra kicker for stability. It still rocks a little even when tight but it is flex in the bench vise and the smaller vise not the contraption.

IMG_20140112_132734_zpszjbyyqo0.jpg

IMG_20140112_132751_zpsgecijlfp.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am loving the headless! Your work is so clean. So why do you hate zero frets?

I hate when the strings move on 1st position bends. A Nut keeps the strings solid. A zero fret lets the string wander during bends. Just messy feel.

The strings eventually wear a groove in the zero fret. Then as the string wanders around over the zero fret it makes a crunching noise...

I just hate them.

I also do not like spongy strings. Large amounts of string after the bridge or the nut make strings feel mushy. Not fun. I like a good floyd rose system but you have to block them up to get them to stop moving when you bend strings. I am not a fan of bending strings and the others go out of tune...

So the final answer to this is to keep the strings behind the nut and bridge short/tight. Also helps to keep a lot of tension on them using the correct break angle.

Personally I don't even like reverse headstocks because they change the tension on the low strings. But my customers don't like anything else so I make a compromise. My main guitar is El Mariachi and if you look at that 2+4 headstock you will see that the E and A are short runs from the nut to the tuners. The D and G (harder to bend) are the longest runs. This gives the G a bit more slink so it is easier to bend. Then the B and E are short again so they are tight and crisp feeling.

Looking at that top I conclude: this guitar should have no bridge.

Hated to put the neck humbucker in it. Almost built it with a single Hot Rails humbucker in the bridge but I thought that as a truly epic guitar it needed to be complete and that means 2 full sized humbuckers with volume 3-way and push pull for tap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still working on side dots by hand. I really need to make a template for doing this.

IMG_20140112_135945_zpszkxkwc1n.jpg

A center finding rule! Very good idea, no idea why it didn't cross my mind. I've been using my calipers then trying to set it to accurate the 0.01 of a mm to mark the center and then go from there....might have to pick me up a set, if I don't figure out some jig on the drill press for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes a center finding ruler... something I can not survive without. I use it for everything that needs a center line. On neck blanks I will come back and check the center with a pair of calipers. Next thing you have to have is a machinist square. Once I make the center marks I use the machinist square to carry the line down past the edge of the fretboard. Then I have a block of wood with a piece of lexan screwed to the front with a pilot hole that fits a 5/64th drill bit that puts the markers right on the seam of the fretboard and the neck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...