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Project: S9 Progress Thread 2014 - RAD


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I think width is going to be the key. I'm betting that anything you chose would get lost if it is the same width as the stripes. Neon green or orange stringers would probably get lost in that stuff.

SR

Probably right

I would expect that .25" is the minimal

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  • 2 weeks later...
Sperzels in. Staggered tuners in a tapered headstock makes me happy.
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I am not sure how I feel about them anymore. I have gotten used to the heavy brass bodied Hipshot lockers and for some reason the Sperzel feels less solid to me. I also hate the pin. Unless I need space on the headstock. Then I love the pin.
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Black ABM bridge. I really like these bridges. I wish I could get them in 7 string without a special order. Locking steel saddles on a steel plate. Solid as a rock. And I can recess it into the body until only the saddles stick up. Ergonomic bliss.
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Single string bridges from Hipshot.
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Finished up the pickguard for a friend. Vintage tortoise. Diablo HB, 2 Diablo Single Coils (P90 style). Volume and Tone are moved to give a bit more room.
I love the smell of nitrocellulose celluloid in the morning.
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That Macassar board is sexy.

Very nice documentation on the bridge plate inset.

Can you explain the significance of the pencil line on your nut, and it's relationship to the hieght you trimmed the nut down to?

And last but not least.....you can make Diablo single coils P-90 style that look like strat style? How does that work? Do you use P-90 height posts instead of strat height posts?

SR

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Where did you get those brass inserts for the direct mount pickups? Been looking for those.

McMaster-Carr 4-40 brass insert with shoulder.

That Macassar board is sexy.

Very nice documentation on the bridge plate inset.

Can you explain the significance of the pencil line on your nut, and it's relationship to the hieght you trimmed the nut down to?

And last but not least.....you can make Diablo single coils P-90 style that look like strat style? How does that work? Do you use P-90 height posts instead of strat height posts?

SR

The pencil line is the top of the frets. The nut only need to be half the height of the string thickness above that line. So if you are running .056 E about .028 - .033 above that line is good. However I have been doing this a long time so I just eyeball it. Most guys leave too much meat on the top of the nut. It really only needs to hold the string in place. No need for the slots to be above the depth of the string. That just makes the strings bind. Depending on your headstock pull you might need a bit more. On a LP I leave about 3/4 the width of the strings because of the funky angle. On a strat I cut it to half.

Diablo single coils P90 style. Yeah... they have a nice fatness to them. They have adjustable pole pieces, a keeper bar, and 2 magnets just like a P90. The coil is not as fat (it is significantly taller to get a decent number of winds) so they are missing a bit of the mud you can get from a P90. They have an edge to them and can still quack a little but very different from a traditional 54 Strat pickup.

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Forgot to add for the nut. The pencil line is the rough depth of the slots. So you can cut down to the top of the line during rough in phase without worry of going to deep. The nut slots should be a hair above the final fret height when you are done. But that is a tutorial for another day.

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I saw that StewMac now has a nice little feeler guage set that clamps to the neck just in front of the nut and conforms to the radius of the fretboard. It allows you to create a metal barrier to keep that last pull of the file from crossing the line into too deep. I actually used an old set of spark plug feelers to try to do that myself on my last nut.

SR

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I use the eyeball to make the slots, but instead of drawing the top line, I draw the fret line height (the limit you can't reach)... I also add the safety 'hair' that RAD suggested, just to prevent bone wear from strings compression I guess... the ideal height for a nut slot is the same as frets, so the nut works like another fret... right?

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I use the eyeball to make the slots, but instead of drawing the top line, I draw the fret line height (the limit you can't reach)... I also add the safety 'hair' that RAD suggested, just to prevent bone wear from strings compression I guess... the ideal height for a nut slot is the same as frets, so the nut works like another fret... right?

Right. But because of "Bone Voodoo" the tone is better on the open strings than on the fretted ones (??? o_0 ????)

Man the pain... I may have just given a reason for a zero fret. Consistent tone. And I continue to contribute to the "Voodoo"

@psikoT I think your english as a second language got you... I don't use the eyeball to make the slots... I eyeball how I cut the top of the nut on the belt sander.

Nut slots are a precision thing. Either you use the nut layout ruler from Srew Mac like I do or you do some funky math.

((Width of the neck at nut - overhang x2) - sum of all the string thicknesses) / number of spaces = String spacing.

so... for some reason I can't paste this into the calculator.

1.75 - (0.104724 * 2) - (.010 + .013 + .017 + .026 + .036 +.046) / 5 = 0.2785104

1.75 - 0.209448 = 1.540552

.010 + .013 + .017 + .026 + .036 +.046 = 0.148

1.540552 - 0.148 = 1.392552

1.392552 / 5 = 0.2785104

Space between strings = 0.2785104

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