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Project: S9 Progress Thread 2014 - RAD


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I have blown off guitar building for a week because I had some stuff to do around the house and frankly I was disinterested after the latest snafu.

Time for the Disaster tale. So I decided to try a Titebond glue up because this body is so light I didn't want a lot of epoxy weighing it down. Horrible idea. Note that this works but I have a suspect chunk of African Mahogany that has done this once before so shame on me for trying it again. The reason I stopped using Titebond for this is by what happens next.

IMG_20140406_115621_zps5mzxvdkc.jpg

So the blank warped.

IMG_20140409_171950_zpsfvl7mbv8.jpg

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The fix is to clamp it straight for a day and add a strip into the middle. Needless to say I am not happy because of all the extra work I now have to do to salvage the top.

IMG_20140409_172407_zpsegbhcdxe.jpg

I will probably take another week off before even bothering to look at fixing this.

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I hear you about the water content issues of things like Titebond. Perhaps spritzing the rear of the blank with water and covering it with polythene whilst the joint evacuates its own moisture might help? Can't say that I have tried it yet, but having been through this exact same issue (including one attempt at flattening) I think that there has to be a way to deal with this. My thoughts have always been on adding four-way panel clamps, however since I don't need my own clamps right now this has never been actioned:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/york-professional-panel-press

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Partly was my clamping.

I used bars along the grain but did not use anything across the grain to keep it flat.

I really need to break down and buy a vacuum press but I just don't have the room for a table and I am not really excited about using poly bags yet.

This one particular board was very sensitive. Since it happened twice shame on me. The first time I thought I used too much glue and it was my fault. The second time I was really careful to not use too much so it wasn't that.

We have had some strange humidity this year and maybe it was just a bad day.

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Maybe I'm just superstitious, but I still prefer machining it flat when the warpage goes with the grain like that. Against the grain bendage is okay to force back straight with clamps.

Back to your first statement: Is epoxy that much heavier than titebond after all the squeezeout has been cleaned up? We're talking about a paper thin layer....or less.

SR

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Maybe I'm just superstitious, but I still prefer machining it flat when the warpage goes with the grain like that. Against the grain bendage is okay to force back straight with clamps.

Back to your first statement: Is epoxy that much heavier than titebond after all the squeezeout has been cleaned up? We're talking about a paper thin layer....or less.

SR

I would normally plain it out but this was so bad I wouldn't even have had a top left.

As for the weight. West Systems is much thinner than some other epoxies so It is what soaks in the grain I am worried about. With multilams and veneers it is a lot of epoxy. And Mahogany pulls it in pretty fast. It seems my blanks are heavier lately. No science just the old luthiers feel. I might just be crazy.

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That body break was totally awful, sorry... i guess that ridiculous clamping is not the one you've used... I mean, you probably took off the other 20 clamps to take the pic, right?... or should I call the police? :rolleyes:

Love the electronics cavity... very cool idea. ;)

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