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Project: S9 Progress Thread 2014 - RAD


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Where did you get those brass inserts for the direct mount pickups? Been looking for those.

McMaster-Carr 4-40 brass insert with shoulder.

I googled this and couldnt fine anything.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-press-fit-threaded-inserts

Press-Fit Expansion Inserts for Plastics
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Thanks for the link. Do you actually need the installation tool, or can you just hammer them in?

I made an install tool from a broken 1/16" hex shaft drill. Yes an install tool takes the "ooops" factor out of it.

I hammered the first two in and broke the third. Decided I needed an install tool.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why did I not make the headstock wide enough to begin with?

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The other zebrawood neck gets a fretboard. I used epoxy on this one for the fretboard, and the top, headplate, and the neck joint. Other one is using titebond for all the joints. Since the two guitars are twins I can give a report on the differences between the glues when they are done. I hope it is impossible to tell.

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Do to recent tone "voodoo" findings I have decided that mojo is as important as materials. So I am attempting to channel the mojo. I am starting with a one piece flat sawn 2A figured piece of maple. I am going to add a 2A piece of birdseye for the fretbaord and head plate. I know what you are thinking why? I have all this 4A and 5A wood laying around on the shelves. Well the reasoning is that the wood will try harder knowing it is not as pretty as the others. It will have a better personality... I call it the "Wing Man Theory".

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I use some small 1/16" pins from McMaster-Carr to hold the scarf while it is glued. It is always best to place these pins outside the actual neck ;) Of course not too far outside the neck. See where I put these? They pulled through and split when I clamped the neck. Forced me to add 2 more down farther into the scarf.

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Carving up the wookiee. Tigerwood is strange. It acts like figured maple when you hit it with a blade sometimes and others it is like rosewood. After roughing in with the sanding disk in the 3/8" drill I ended up doing a combination of hand scrapers and hand sanding to finish.

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Time to fix the punky boards. The one on the left needs some help. I did place the board so as I cut the radius I will reveal more solid ebony sanding away the punky pith. But what I need now is System Three Clear Coat and a heat gun. I heat the epoxy mixture on top of the board to get it to soak in better careful not to burn anything. When I am done and it starts to gel I wipe all the excess off because sanding it is a PITA.

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Why did I not make the headstock wide enough to begin with?

:huh: Well?

Oh, was that rhetorical? :P

Your wookie cleans up nicely, was that naptha? He's going to be very colorful once you get him all dressed in his Sunday best.

I like your theory about underprivileged wood trying harder.

SR

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Why did I not make the headstock wide enough to begin with?

:huh: Well?

Oh, was that rhetorical? :P

Your wookie cleans up nicely, was that naptha? He's going to be very colorful once you get him all dressed in his Sunday best.

I like your theory about underprivileged wood trying harder.

SR

Wing Man Voodoo!

When I am done with a body/neck and want to get an idea what it looks like with finish I use Mineral Spirits. One problem with Mineral Spirits is that it takes a lot longer to gas off so you don't want to use it until you are done for the day.

Wookiee is going to be a winner I think.

So these days I usually make the headstock block large enough to not glue wings on if I can since I use the CNC for most of the work. I used to try and not have any scrap from a neck blank and that is why these have no wings. Plus when I used to use the router table to make trussrod slots it was easier to line them up proper it the neck blank had a nice square edge to ride the fence.

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