Prostheta Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 BLACK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Black is for girls.I was thinking more along the lines of Hannah Montana pink with glitter stars and a stencil of a unicorn farting a rainbow between the pickups.Oil finish for this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 True, but it's a difficult one to get right. I know that it's a total other conversation, but I have nothing but respect for auto painters who can hit that amazing "piano black" like you see on high end Mercs and the like. The kind of black you are simply not allowed to use anything other than a single-piece body underneath to prevent the joints moving through.If unicorns fart rainbows, does that mean they have slotted buttholes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 I have to agree. Without knowing jack about spraying auto bodies myself, black is a colour that must be difficult to do right.Re, farting unicorns: makes you wonder which end the pot of gold resides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 I don't want to know, but I bet @westhemann would be strapping on waders and goggles if either of us did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Perhaps the slots are for extruding gold coins?SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Why do I get mentioned every time unicorn buttholes come up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Have been far too busy recently to stay up to date with this one, but I've finally been able to spend some time on the builds. First thing I needed to do was deal with the opaque epoxy fill problem on the good twin. A little bit of digging with the dremel and a 1/16" router bit and the worst of the epoxy is out. I also spent a bit of time blending the area to make it look more like a 'knot'. Not sure if it makes much difference, but anyway: Better: Headstock logo engravings taking shape: Doesn't llok much different than before, but it's almost sanded ready for finishing. There's two small areas currently being filled with epoxy to finish off the last of the knotty voids: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Looks killer... do you glue the neck after finishing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 I've been thinking about this for a few months now....especially since @Robbinst mentioned his approach of using compressed air to crush bubbles in epoxy. I've always figured that bubbles are best being pulled from epoxy through a vacuum. I'm definitely going to have to do some work on producing my "suspicious medical purpose looking" homebrew vacuum pump. Originally this was for veneer pressing, but I think there are many applications beyond this such as clamping and pulling bubbles or air pockets locked into freshly-poured epoxy like this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 12 hours ago, psikoT said: Looks killer... do you glue the neck after finishing? Bolt on neck, no glue here. Still need to complete the grain filling/sanding/finishing on the neck yet before I can put it all together. 11 hours ago, Prostheta said: I've been thinking about this for a few months now....especially since @Robbinst mentioned his approach of using compressed air to crush bubbles in epoxy. I've always figured that bubbles are best being pulled from epoxy through a vacuum. I'm definitely going to have to do some work on producing my "suspicious medical purpose looking" homebrew vacuum pump. Originally this was for veneer pressing, but I think there are many applications beyond this such as clamping and pulling bubbles or air pockets locked into freshly-poured epoxy like this.... The problem I originally had was the epoxy I used dried slightly opaque rather than full of air bubbles...or perhaps the opaque section was minute air bubbles not discernable to the naked eye? Either way, for such a large fill this time I've used a different epoxy that dries completely clear. I find that I can deal with most air bubbles during the drying process by gently skimming off any that form while the epoxy is still wet, but that obviously requires me to keep an eye on the epoxy for the first hour or two after I've poured it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I'd defer to better experience on that one about opacity in epoxies. The trapped air might be close to the mark though. I know that pockets of catalyst or incorrect mixtures with too much catalyst causing clouding in some optically-clear epoxies. Difficult to say without knowing the exact stuff and its failure conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I'd say it's just a characteristic of the particular epoxy I'm using. The leftovers from every batch I've mixed has always turned cloudy at the bottom of the cup. It's just my own fault for trying to fill such a deep cavity in one hit. As a grain filler and pinhole void filler it's fine, and sands down quite well. For bigger fills I just need to remember to use another epoxy that's designed to dry clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Or fill it in layers. When I'm filling a larger area....like bear eyes for instance, I build a little dam around the area and overfill a bit. The bubbles usually rise to near the surface and are sanded away when the surface gets leveled or shaped. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 13 hours ago, curtisa said: I'd say it's just a characteristic of the particular epoxy I'm using. The leftovers from every batch I've mixed has always turned cloudy at the bottom of the cup. It's just my own fault for trying to fill such a deep cavity in one hit. As a grain filler and pinhole void filler it's fine, and sands down quite well. For bigger fills I just need to remember to use another epoxy that's designed to dry clear. I was reading up on some epoxies the other night since I need to buy some for my fret market tutorial. I might go with Z-Poxy PT-39 finishing resin rather than a glue-type epoxy. Funny how it clouds at the bottom of the cup. The manufacturer wouldn't hear the end of me till I had answers. I get pretty annoyed. PS. This tends to get me out of all manner of scrapes like parking tickets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 The product I use is something called 'Bote Cote' (Australian brand). To be fair it's primarily intended for fibreglass work and boat manufacturing, so drying clear isn't high in its list of features. But it sands well, it's cheap, it doesn't seem to matter if I get the mix slightly off, it doesn't shrink back and I can get it locally over the counter. I have one variety of the super clear stuff on my shelves but I don't use it so much, as it takes much longer to set before I can sand/scrape it. I should probably see if I can find a better alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 That sounds like what we would call fiberglass resin over here. Hmmmm, sounds like it has great properties for pore filling. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Judging by the website it's marketed as a bit of a universal 'everything' epoxy - fibreglass resin, glue, grain filler, waterproofing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Haven't forgetten about these builds, but what with Christmas fast approaching and various urgent jobs around the house, things have been a bit hectic of late. Plus now that I'm at the slow, laborious finishing stage there's not an awful lot of real progress to show. The Good Twin will probably be bolted together next weekend if the stars align. I fear Evil Twin is lurking in a dark corner of the workshop waiting to jump out and bite me: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salamon-rs Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Man....all this looks so professional and cool and fun and easy only it's not easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 that is really sexy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 That one's looking positively angelic....and I bet the other one is wicked! Lovely job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Cheers guys. 'Wicked' is one word to describe it. 'Possessed' is probably a better term given all the grief it gave me earlier on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 The one thing about these ABM individual saddles that I don't like is that you have to notch each one to prevent the string sliding side-to-side when doing string bends at the upper frets: Electrics done: Getting close now. Still needs a nut, a cavity cover around the back and some kind of truss rod cover: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 I didn't realise they weren't pre-notched. I guess it does mean you can dial in compensated string-to-string distances or equal centres. How are you smoothing the witness points? First thing I thought of was that abrasive cord that Dan Erlewine mentions once in a blue moon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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