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Wonky Frets 2 - Multiscale Sixer


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Haven't thought that far ahead yet. The abrasive cord also crossed my mind, but then the price of it skidded up alongside it. On Wonky Frets 1 I just used the needle files and left it unfinished, and it hasn't been an issue, but I guess I could try a little harder this time around. Any alternative ideas? Maybe a piece of 400 grit wet and dry wrapped around the edge of a credit card?

At the very least I should add a dab of black enamel paint to the notches to hide the exposed brass.

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The brief search I did about the subject suggested that nut slotting files, the Mitchell abrasive cord or even tapping the seated string with a hammer were the most common methods. I'd imagine a jeweller's supply store would carry some kind of teeny diamond grit file that'd do the job.

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Ta very muchly!

I'm feeling nutty:

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The bleached bone nut looks a little too white and pristine against the vintage cream binding, so one drop of orange dye, four drops of yellow and a bit of roughing up with 600 grit wet & dry gets it looking a bit more like a 'ye olde nutte':

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As an aside, having strung this beastie up to get started on setting the action, intonation and slotting the nut, I have to say if anyone was previously put off by the Hi Fidelity-ness of EMG pickups should give their 57/66 combo a try. These are much more plump, rounded and straight-up rocky than their familiar 81/85 set that polarises so many people regarding active pickups.

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I think a lot of the dissatisfaction surrounding active EMGs is a byproduct of what an active circuit does; reduce output impedance. Passive circuits have conditioned us to the mild treble rolloff from high impedance and cable capacitance. Bandying around the terms "sterile" or "cold" are misleading since passive pickups sound exactly the same when buffered by a basic uncoloured preamp; unloaded and unaffected by the circuit downstream of the pickups. I'm probably wrong since I don't obsess over these points (plenty of more important things to do this over) however the detractors often have little consistency in their arguments. The modern preamp designs EMG have employed seem to respond more like passive pickups and the sound blows old vague arguments out of the water, definitely.

I am wondering how much heresy I would be committing by fitting something like say....a Bareknuckle....into an instrument with a unity gain 18v differential preamp? Will is roll off nicely like a passive with the volume control? Hmm.

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Well, perhaps. I like to know the ground before I stomp my feet. I defer to old school players whose feel for the interaction between a pushed power section and a squishy responsive set of pickups sets the mark you know? Selective touch and judicious use of the volume control....which is a big part of the passive thing....

I use the example of BK simply as a bullshit-free (as far as I am aware of course) pickup maker who knows the ground and makes pickups to a high standard, not a low price. My curiosity is simply whether pickups with character are emasculated by their inclusion in a low impedance circuit (potentially divorcing it from "organic" interaction with the amp) or whether that circuit needs to have some sort of compensation to give it the same lameness as a passive circuit.

There. I said it. :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

A (fiddly to make) alternative to a plain vanilla truss rod cover. A teeny rare earth magnet sunk into the bottom of the trussrod access and an M2.5 screw in the bottom of a wooden plug. Pressing the forward edge of the plug releases the magnet and allows access to the truss rod:20160112_174109.thumb.jpg.9f7ce7e1dcd7a720160112_174323.thumb.jpg.045566140d6eec20160113_194555.thumb.jpg.df6a692d0bdd1720160113_194616.thumb.jpg.755bff10e5b0f920160113_194540.thumb.jpg.13c100667d99cc

 

One of these days I'll finish these builds. No wonder the last few bits always take the longest...

 

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For the sake of an entire new guitar, it's not too difficult to sacrifice a set of stainless steel strings. Pop em on, space the strings using some correctly-thicknessed shims and give the string a pop over the saddle using a plastic-faced fret hammer. That should be enough. I mean, the saddles are brass aren't they?

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