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First Build - The "Nozcaster"


Norris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress over the last week or two.

Despite doing a test routing with the neck pocket template beforehand, the actual pocket turned out just slightly too sloppy. That was remedied by a strip of 0.6mm maple veneer either side. It probably won't be too noticeable being in the neck pocket and if that's the worst cock-up I do I'll be pretty happy (I've not had any major issues yet!). The body will be dyed a fairly dark blue, which should also help to disguise it a bit.

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So then onto levelling & crowning the frets. I worked as quickly (but carefully!) as I could, but ran out of time in last night's class with 3 frets to go!

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The last 3 frets shouldn't take too long. Once they are all polished up that should be the neck just about complete apart from the final finishing.

I'm also making the templates for the rest of the body routes. There will be few weeks to go yet, but the end is in sight for this epic thread (started back in September!).

Edited by Norris
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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress has been slow, but there has been some. I had a load of gigs throughout June which left me a bit weary for doing much at the weekend, plus I've had a lot of stuff going on at work - I'm a computer programmer and we just rolled out a 6 month project, one of those very un-glamorous updates that would have a major impact if it went wrong (i.e. not much credit to be had if it works ok, but a good kicking if it goes wrong! :D)

Anyway I've been crowning and polishing...

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I checked them with a borrowed fret rocker and had just one small high spot - which I'm quite pleased with.

The frets are finished!

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I still need to do the final finishing & drill holes for the hardware. I will also make a new wider Gibson-style nut. Apart from that the neck will be tucked away safely while I continue with the body routs & carving

Edited by Norris
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I have been making some templates to use with my 30mm guide bush and a 10mm bit. That gives me a 10mm offset. Copying an idea I saw on here, I asked my father-in-law to make me a washer of the correct size on his lathe, to quickly trace round things. This is what he came up with...

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He's not defaced a picture of the queen - it's George VI on the back :)

He said it should be accurate to within a few thousandths of an inch, which is a lot more accurate than the pencil I'll be using :D Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it soon

Edited by Norris
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Not a huge amount of progress again, but I did find time to finally do a test routing of my neck pickups templates. So my pickup is currently mounted in a chunky off-cut of pine.

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I'm quite pleased with that - drops in nicely without any pressure required and no huge gaps.

Edited by Norris
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18 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Good plan. Not enough people do this, making their workpiece also their test piece....

A quick way to ruin a nice piece of wood if you don't get it right first time. This build has taken me long enough already, without having to fix mistakes or even re-make the body! :D

Plus I wasn't 100% certain I'd got the guide bush offset correct - I am now :)

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3 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Isn't it a great feeling when your theoretical calculations bear out in the finished item? I find that bit addictive.

It's not exactly rocket science, but I am acutely aware of my lack of woodworking experience before I started this build. There again, I'm a computer programmer by trade and I like to get things right first time, or at least minimise errors if there is any uncertainty :)

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I agree wholeheartedly. I studied Computing (what a crap name) at the University Of Humberside back in the 90s, so I have more or less the same mindset. Factoring out failure - or at least managing exceptions - is a process. Since then I found myself applying the techniques and thought processes to everything. Absolutely everything.

Quote

> 6mm wide slot with 5mm curve in the centre

permission denied.

> sudo 6mm wide slot with 5mm curve in the centre

 

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Another little update - the bridge pickup template

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I'm glad I did a test routing again, as there is not much of a gap between the sides of the pickup and the edges of the bridge plate. My first attempt fitted... just... but not to my satisfaction! You could still just about see the route where the bridge plate is folds under.

The second attempt was a lot better, and I've left myself as much "meat" as possible to allow for a little fettling with a scraper when I come to the final fit.

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The pickup/plate assembly is positioned in the second attempt routing (the reference line is the scale line)

Edited by Norris
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1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

How did you join up the circles with straight lines in the templates? Patience or routing with bits of straight service stock?

I placed the pickup upside down on the template, then used my offset wheel (coin with a hole in it) to follow the curve round. The second attempt was done freehand based on the first attempt, but bringing the curves in by a couple of mm. The template was then "fettled" to size - I did about 3 routings until I got a snugish fit

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It was finally time to stop procrastinating and route for the bridge pickup. I'll admit to being a little nervous, not having done this before. I'm glad that I did the test routing as it was spot on - a little fettling with a scraper (as planned) and the bridge sits dead centre with none of the hole visible :)

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I was going to fix the neck on, but realised I forgot to take my brad-point drill bits to class last night. I'd rather do that at home, so had plenty of clean-up time instead.

Having bitten the bullet now, I'll get on with the rest of the top routing. I've also started working on the rear access panel using the final largish offcut of the flamed top (with the grain in the right direction) - the offcut from the headstock veneer

Edited by Norris
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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been away on holiday, but there has been some progress.

Finally it's time to reveal the "hook" i.e. what makes it different from every other telecaster. To be frank, I can't be bothered trying to hide bits in future photos :)

So using my Dremel with the StewMac router base and a 3.2mm straight router bit, plus a couple of templates I prepared earlier...

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... I did the straight carve

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Then using a cut down 5mm quadrant cabinet scraper. and a lot of sanding..

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The top recess will have the (not) "F" hole and the bottom one will host the knobs & switch

Edited by Norris
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And then I went on to start the drop carve...

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After some time with the shinto rasp and a flat cabinet scraper we are starting to get there

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Once the binding is on I'll do another facet at a shallower angle across the ridge.

I will do the area around the neck join a little more organically, as I want to keep enough wood around there to support the bolt-on neck. It will also involve joining my binding to get it to rise to the neck line, but that's to think about another day.

Anyway, I'm quite pleased with that. Back to lots of little increments after a big jump in progress :D

Edited by Norris
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