Prostheta Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 I'd consider a wider nut also. That is. unless you're constrained by it looking like an existing design, or your nut stock is limited in size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 17 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I'd consider a wider nut also. That is. unless you're constrained by it looking like an existing design, or your nut stock is limited in size. This is getting to be a habit...but I agree again The challenge is making sure the strings don't bind on the overhang on the run from the nut slot to the nearest of the tuning posts. A wider nut (eg les Paul type rather than Fender strat) would help. Or...can't remember the dimensions...a Fender or similar roller nut?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 I wouldn't opt for a radical change in hardware. I don't like LSR rollers because they migrate into the board as well as back from it. They're wide units with a witness point that isn't at one far end. A big chunk of bone, horn or Corian (I almost typed "Durex" if you want a snigger. I think "durian" was in there somewhere in my recollection confuzzle) is an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted April 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) I've already prepared a piece of bone to that width, but could always make another. Food for thought... Edit: I really should have said that will give me something to chew over! Edited April 28, 2016 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 "This bubble gum is lasting for ages and works better than the last lot I got from the vending machine!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) I got to use my Shinto rasp for the first time And after a lot of sanding... ... which should hopefully give enough clearance Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) I've also got some more dyes. I'll show you some photos, but haven't got time right now to re-type everything I lost when I couldn't post (the Submit Reply button was stuck on "Saving...") Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Looks a nice colour @Norris How did you find the Shinto to use? It's on my 'maybe' list... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 9 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Looks a nice colour @Norris How did you find the Shinto to use? It's on my 'maybe' list... You have to get it. It's a must not a maybe! I use it very often and it's probably the best hand tool I have. That being said I don't have many tools but this rasp takes away material very quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 8 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said: You have to get it. It's a must not a maybe! I use it very often and it's probably the best hand tool I have. That being said I don't have many tools but this rasp takes away material very quickly. Good enough endorsement for me. I can now tell MrsAndyjr that 'I don't want a Shinto rasp, it's simply because I have no option...I have to have one. Look...it says so here.' if you hear a knock on the door and there is a very angry woman outside, I suggest you pick up any valuables and run. Scary lady. Scares the c**p out of me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Guys, I know that the Shinto rasps are pretty good for the price however you might want to check out Liogier hand-struck rasps also. You do need to be pretty flush with cash for them, however I don't think that the Shinto can really compare after a point. I need to get myself one of those to do an honest comparison really. I didn't resent paying €80 for the rasp though, and you guys know that I am certainly not flush for it! Mine is a 9" #10 stitching: http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/fauteuil.html Review: http://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/tools_and_consumables/liogier-9-10-cabinet-makers-rasp-r11/ In my opinion, the 200mm #10 is better for guitar makers as a first however mine still sees heavy use in all kinds of jobs. Total investment and a few Shekels cheaper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 (edited) Wow that's a huge price for the Liogier! I only paid $26 for my shinto... Haha. Then again I dont use my tools very often... And Andy don't quote me on that! Edited May 4, 2016 by SIMpleONe89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 (edited) 18 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Looks a nice colour @Norris How did you find the Shinto to use? It's on my 'maybe' list... It's lovely to use, and a definite must-have for your toolbox . I only used the "fine" side as I hadn't got much to remove and there was binding involved. I'll get to use the coarse side when I carve the neck. I got mine from Amazon. It was quite reasonably priced, but quite a wait for delivery from Japan. Edit: And yes, I'm quite pleased with the colour. The sample has been out on the table and has looked good in all lighting conditions as I've passed by. I'll have a go at reproducing it and maybe giving it a splash of lacquer Edited May 4, 2016 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 That's the thing with the Liogier....good hand struck rasps can do very fine detail work depending how much pressure you apply. A Shinto is (as far as I am aware) fairly consistent in stock removal. I've hogged entire necks from square with that one rasp, and also detailed the volutes/heels at the same time. Still, I think slightly smaller would work better....a spokeshave takes a neck from the square nicely and a rasp refines it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 As an aside... You'd think Japan would be loaded with places to find all of these fancy or unique Japanese tools, but in fact I haven't had much luck (with the exception of Japanese saws which are everywhere). The few tools I've found have been very expensive - it's much cheaper to get Japanese tools shipped over from Amazon.com. There is supposed to be a carpenter's tool district in Osaka but I haven't been. Also, those liogier rasps sound fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I'll cover it in a future video, definitely. Changed how I worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I'll second the recommendation for a hand struck rasp. The Shinto is great for quick stock removal, but once you've tried a good quality rasp you'll never look back. The Dragon rasps from Stewmac are worth a look at if you can't stretch to Liogier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 And I'll second the Dragon recommendation! I have the large coarse version, it gets used in many places throughout the build process. Well worth the price, I'd say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 StewMac's dragon rasps are part of a longer conversation really. I talked to Noel Liogier about what differentiates his and theirs, and there are a lot of points. No joke intended. Mostly blade polishing prior to picking, tooth/gullet geometry, coverage, etc. Dragon rasps are good for the money, but somewhat of a different tier within hand stitched rasps in general. I still find it surprising that the cheap bastards (as in "f*****s", not "bastard rasp") don't supply them with handles. I mean, seriously. I know they're last off the slow boat and all but the least they could do is pretend they're not by giving them a handle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Oh, I definitely wouldn't call the Dragons 'nice' in the same manner as a Liogier or Auroiu rasp. Also, it really is irritating that $tewie doesn't provide a handle. I'd consider the Dragon a solid midrange choice, but obviously not in the same realm as the other hand-stitched rasps out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I'd like to see what @ScottR would do with some carving rasps and rifflers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I'd be curious to try some nice ones. I've got some cheap rifflers from Wood Craft that are useless. For rasp work I use the one I made form used bandsaw blades more than anything else, but it is best at aggressive material removal. For the details it's gouges for me. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Anyway, I used my Shinto rasp () to shave a couple of mm off the back of the headstock, taking it down to around 13.5mm. It was previously at 0.6" as per the plans, but the Kluson tuners seem to be designed for a little over 0.5" thickness (as far as I could tell on t'Internet) & looked a little "swamped" with 0.6". It looks a lot better fit now. I put a steel rule across the frets to give me an approximate height for the nut, wedged in a small bolt to give me something to rest on, then held a piece of card behind it to represent the string down to the first tuner. We have a little bit of daylight, so it might be enough clearance now. Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 On 5/6/2016 at 10:54 AM, Norris said: Anyway, I used my Shinto rasp () Not a Shiton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) Back to class last night, so I managed to use the instructor's fret bevelling file ... then polished them off a bit with my 320 grit sanding block. I'll polish them up a bit further later on So then I had time to start carving the neck. First, to get the taper in using my SHINTO rasp . If it was the other way up you'd be able to see it printed on the handle So in a bit of murky daylight this morning... I ran out of time to do much carving last night. I'll carry on with it at home if I get time Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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