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First Build - The "Nozcaster"


Norris

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17 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

I'd consider a wider nut also. That is. unless you're constrained by it looking like an existing design, or your nut stock is limited in size.

This is getting to be a habit...but I agree again :D

The challenge is making sure the strings don't bind on the overhang on the run from the nut slot to the nearest of the tuning posts.  A wider nut (eg les Paul type rather than Fender strat) would help.   Or...can't remember the dimensions...a Fender or similar roller nut??

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I wouldn't opt for a radical change in hardware. I don't like LSR rollers because they migrate into the board as well as back from it. They're wide units with a witness point that isn't at one far end. A big chunk of bone, horn or Corian (I almost typed "Durex" if you want a snigger. I think "durian" was in there somewhere in my recollection confuzzle) is an option.

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I've also got some more dyes. I'll show you some photos, but haven't got time right now to re-type everything I lost when I couldn't post (the Submit Reply button was stuck on "Saving...")

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20160502_120239_zpsqu2kqtf5.thumb.jpg.724f8331abbcbb051873648b379ff90f.jpg

Edited by Norris
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9 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Looks a nice colour @Norris  How did you find the Shinto to use?  It's on my 'maybe' list...

You have to get it. It's a must not a maybe! I use it very often and it's probably the best hand tool I have. That being said I don't have many tools but this rasp takes away material very quickly. 

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8 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said:

You have to get it. It's a must not a maybe! I use it very often and it's probably the best hand tool I have. That being said I don't have many tools but this rasp takes away material very quickly. 

Good enough endorsement for me.  I can now tell MrsAndyjr that 'I don't want a Shinto rasp, it's simply because I have no option...I have to have one.  Look...it says so here.'

if you hear a knock on the door and there is a very angry woman outside, I suggest you pick up any valuables and run.  

Scary lady.  Scares the c**p out of me! :lol:

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Guys, I know that the Shinto rasps are pretty good for the price however you might want to check out Liogier hand-struck rasps also. You do need to be pretty flush with cash for them, however I don't think that the Shinto can really compare after a point. I need to get myself one of those to do an honest comparison really. I didn't resent paying €80 for the rasp though, and you guys know that I am certainly not flush for it!

Mine is a 9" #10 stitching:

http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/fauteuil.html

Review:

http://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/tools_and_consumables/liogier-9-10-cabinet-makers-rasp-r11/

In my opinion, the 200mm #10 is better for guitar makers as a first however mine still sees heavy use in all kinds of jobs. Total investment and a few Shekels cheaper.

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18 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Looks a nice colour @Norris  How did you find the Shinto to use?  It's on my 'maybe' list...

It's lovely to use, and a definite must-have for your toolbox :). I only used the "fine" side as I hadn't got much to remove and there was binding involved. I'll get to use the coarse side when I carve the neck.

I got mine from Amazon. It was quite reasonably priced, but quite a wait for delivery from Japan.

Edit: And yes, I'm quite pleased with the colour. The sample has been out on the table and has looked good in all lighting conditions as I've passed by. I'll have a go at reproducing it and maybe giving it a splash of lacquer

Edited by Norris
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That's the thing with the Liogier....good hand struck rasps can do very fine detail work depending how much pressure you apply. A Shinto is (as far as I am aware) fairly consistent in stock removal. I've hogged entire necks from square with that one rasp, and also detailed the volutes/heels at the same time. Still, I think slightly smaller would work better....a spokeshave takes a neck from the square nicely and a rasp refines it.

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As an aside... You'd think Japan would be loaded with places to find all of these fancy or unique Japanese tools, but in fact I haven't had much luck (with the exception of Japanese saws which are everywhere). The few tools I've found have been very expensive - it's much cheaper to get Japanese tools shipped over from Amazon.com. There is supposed to be a carpenter's tool district in Osaka but I haven't been. 

Also, those liogier rasps sound fantastic. 

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I'll second the recommendation for a hand struck rasp. The Shinto is great for quick stock removal, but once you've tried a good quality rasp you'll never look back. The Dragon rasps from Stewmac are worth a look at if you can't stretch to Liogier.

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StewMac's dragon rasps are part of a longer conversation really. I talked to Noel Liogier about what differentiates his and theirs, and there are a lot of points. No joke intended. Mostly blade polishing prior to picking, tooth/gullet geometry, coverage, etc. Dragon rasps are good for the money, but somewhat of a different tier within hand stitched rasps in general. I still find it surprising that the cheap bastards (as in "f*****s", not "bastard rasp") don't supply them with handles. I mean, seriously. I know they're last off the slow boat and all but the least they could do is pretend they're not by giving them a handle. :nanananananananananaPIRATE:

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I'd be curious to try some nice ones. I've got some cheap rifflers from Wood Craft that are useless. For rasp work I use the one I made form used bandsaw blades more than anything else, but it is best at aggressive material removal. For the details it's gouges for me.

SR

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Anyway, I used my Shinto rasp (:))  to shave a couple of mm off the back of the headstock, taking it down to around 13.5mm. It was previously at 0.6" as per the plans, but the Kluson tuners seem to be designed for a little over 0.5" thickness (as far as I could tell on t'Internet) & looked a little "swamped" with 0.6". It looks a lot better fit now.

I put a steel rule across the frets to give me an approximate height for the nut, wedged in a small bolt to give me something to rest on, then held a piece of card behind it to represent the string down to the first tuner. We have a little bit of daylight, so it might be enough clearance now.

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Edited by Norris
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Back to class last night, so I managed to use the instructor's fret bevelling file

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... then polished them off a bit with my 320 grit sanding block. I'll polish them up a bit further later on

So then I had time to start carving the neck. First, to get the taper in using my SHINTO rasp :D. If it was the other way up you'd be able to see it printed on the handle

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So in a bit of murky daylight this morning...

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I ran out of time to do much carving last night. I'll carry on with it at home if I get time

Edited by Norris
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