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aidlook

Let's give this another try

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Thanks to social distancing, I've found myself with spare time in the shop to pick up this project.

To mark out the location of the bridge pickup, I designed a template with tabs for centering on the bridge and 3D-printed it:

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The white insert lets me mark the positions for drilling the corners.

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Corners drilled out. Time to chop some space for the pickup.

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Bottom finished with router plane

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Finished bridge pickup pocket.

 

Also put some more work into final shaping of the neck, especially around the heel.

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Drilled space for potentiometers

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Status right now

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Edited by aidlook
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Thanks for the 101 pictorial for carving pickup cavities! With all the power tools it's so easy to forget that you'd only need a couple of hand tools for a perfect result. Supposedly it didn't even take more time considering you'd have to connect vacuums, attach templates, tighten router bits and finally clean and pack them out of the way. Not to mention finding your goggles and ear defenders.

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Has that body been sealed/filled, or has it naturally oxidised to that tone through time? It looks much older than the Sapele on the first posts.

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1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

Has that body been sealed/filled, or has it naturally oxidised to that tone through time? It looks much older than the Sapele on the first posts.

It's oxidised -I guess that happens when you leave a project for three years. I found a high spot on the back (turns out my first attempt at hand planing wasn't perfect) and levelled it out - massive colour change.

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1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

Thanks for the 101 pictorial for carving pickup cavities! With all the power tools it's so easy to forget that you'd only need a couple of hand tools for a perfect result. Supposedly it didn't even take more time considering you'd have to connect vacuums, attach templates, tighten router bits and finally clean and pack them out of the way. Not to mention finding your goggles and ear defenders.

Thanks.

I chopped these like mortices. But would have been very quick to just drill out most of the excess and finish the sides and bottom with chisels and router plane. The biggest advantage to me is the lack of noise and dust.

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Interestingly, I've been looking into methods of artificial or "accelerated" oxidation using aqueous solutions of ammonia. Pretty much the same method as one would use to "fume" white Oak, a very traditional Craftsman era technique (for example, Gustaf Stickley). Sapele darkens are gains a different response to finishes such as oil when oxidised that way. I wouldn't recommend it in this instance since there would still be uneven pickup from new to old areas. It just occurred to me.

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