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Another Les Tele Thing.......Heheheh-Mine!


ScottR

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True; particulates in the atmosphere are pretty abrasive at high speed. I recall one of those "History" Channel programmes being on TV in the background (I don't watch TV) at one point, and one particular programme (I don't recall..."When good windows go bad"? "High speed crime plane investigation scene report"?) mentioning an erupting volcano having completely abraded a window opaque from airborne pumice/ash.

I've used toothpaste on such things before. The silica works well, and having minty fresh headlamps is just sweet.

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Gives the light a slightly green tinge though.

After a couple more weeks a curing the nitro did sink slightly here and there. I backed up to 2400 to level it back up.  It's tough to picture but the dark shiny areas (pores) are now even with the surface and will disappear with the next grit, 3200.

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Here we have the 3200 finished and pictured under cloudy late afternoon skies as best I can.

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More polishing to follow.

SR

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I'm afraid there are going to be more holograms and self portraits as this looks like it will end up being impossible to photograph. I'll work on better shots when it is done. It is getting close. The polishing is done. It may be the best polishing I've ever done. So now it attracts dust like a bastard and I'm afraid to touch it.

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SR

 

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Remember I slotted a bubinga blank like a nut?

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I added another blank, ebony this time although the material really does not matter. I make my neck width at the nut based on my string spacing which I've already worked out using that little spacer. I like the spaces between the strings to be even rather than based on string centers. My problem is knowing where to start cutting the nut to end up with the proper edge spacing. With these I can center my nut blank between them and see how much fretboard I want on each edge.. (pics for these comments appear to be in the previous post....)

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The sun came in at a perfect angle while I was stringing this up.....I had to stop and take the shots.

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I got her strung up and semi-set up and took it up to plug it in. I realized I am used to wiring from the bottom of a control cavity. I treated the tele plate the same way and then flipped it over and mounted it to the top. All my controls are backwards. I'm going to have to switch outside lugs on the pots and leads on the switch. I wired it like this and forgot that the middle position is silent instead of both pickups wired this way.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams?meta_params=view-all,teles

Help me outwith this Andrew, if you would. I had to figure this out on Justin's guitar, but don't remember what I did. I want the middle position to be both pups.

SR

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But did you play it?! Did it make sounds?! Always such an interesting moment as you start to feel that "tangible intangible" and slowly set the action and smooth things out. Then, it starts feeling like the hot rod that you built and all of the sudden it's nighttime. She's a beauty!

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11 hours ago, komodo said:

But did you play it?! Did it make sounds?! Always such an interesting moment as you start to feel that "tangible intangible" and slowly set the action and smooth things out. Then, it starts feeling like the hot rod that you built and all of the sudden it's nighttime. She's a beauty!

It makes very nice sounds! That's how I discovered the knobs work backwards and the pups are reversed on the switch.:blink: I need to tweak one slot on the nut and intonate it. It looks like the action will end up being the lowest I've made to date.

SR 

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Don't feel bad. Yesterday I wired up a strat with an Indonsesian neck and that cheap body I got on Ebay. I put custom pick guard on it with three miniswitches for the pups. When I tried it, it worked great but all the switches turn on when flipped UP instead of down how I wanted. 

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20 hours ago, ScottR said:

Help me outwith this Andrew, if you would. I had to figure this out on Justin's guitar, but don't remember what I did. I want the middle position to be both pups.

 

Unless the pickups themselves have odd wiring (stacked humbuckers with muti taps or something) or you want the middle position to be neck+bridge in series rather than parallel, sounds like all you want is the standard 3-way Tele wiring:

198982d1380047055-best-wiring-diagram-st

 

Oh, and chrome knobs.

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That's exactly what I've done.....and the pots increase volume/tone by rotating counter clockwise, and the switch position is reversed as this one would be and I've got nothing in the center position. Standard P-90 and tele bridge which even has a yellow lead like the diagram. The only difference is 500k pots in deference to the P-90.

SR

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13 hours ago, Muzz said:

Is the control plate sitting a bit low at the moment?

Cheers Muzz!

That is likely an optical illusion. The control plate is inset into a carved top. It sits below the surface of the uphill side and proud of the surface on the downhill side.

SR

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I'd say you're missing the little bridges between the lower-left and upper right sets of lugs on the switch.

Careful with the orientation of the diagram. It's shown as if the control plate was removed from the guitar and laid facing down on the body - you're looking at the rear of it, so there shouldn't be any need to reverse connections to anything.

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Those were actually the first things I wired and I checked continuity.....but maybe I lost it somehow. I need to reverse everything, so I'll see what that does and go from there. I still say the leads for the bridge and neck pickups need to be switched to have the switch point to the active pickup. What am I seeing wrong with that?

SR

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OK, I think reversing the switch connections will fix the missing middle position. I had to draw it out several times on paper coz it was really doing my head in, but if the switch has been wired as a mirror image of what's shown above it will work back-to-front and have the middle position missing.

Wire it up as per the diagram with no reversal of terminations and everything will be tickety-boo.

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10 hours ago, curtisa said:

OK, I think reversing the switch connections will fix the missing middle position. I had to draw it out several times on paper coz it was really doing my head in, but if the switch has been wired as a mirror image of what's shown above it will work back-to-front and have the middle position missing.

Wire it up as per the diagram with no reversal of terminations and everything will be tickety-boo.

Alrighty then, I'll give that a shot tonight and see what happens.

Thanks muchly Knightro and Norris.

SR

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