madhattr88 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 tru-oil on bare wood (about three coats) then use water based timbermate grain fill finally finish with 6-9 more coats of tru-oil i'm gonna test on scrap, but i don't see why it wouldn't work. the oil based (tru-oil) shouldn't react with the water based filler... or WILL IT???? i am NOT interested in the "sand tru-oil slurry grain fill" method. :-) love u guys! hug and kisses XOXOXOXO thanks!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I have not tried that, but agree it should work. I'd love to see a shot of what you get when you try it out! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 16 hours ago, ScottR said: I have not tried that, but agree it should work. I'd love to see a shot of what you get when you try it out! SR i started a test piece and will post the results next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Interesting. I'm not sure how the Timbermate will key to the Tru-oil, however three coats will probably leave a little grain for mechanical adhesion. It's a bit of a difficult one without having direct experience of having tried it. I'd be concerned that adding more interstitial layers which have less than ideal adhesion is liable to problems further down the line. I don't even know whether a shellac intermediary layer would solve anything....if Timbermate is like other thixotropic grain fillers, it relies more on mechanical retention than true adhesion ("in" the wood grain rather than "on" the wood). I might be wrong. It just need thoroughly testing to draw reasonable conclusions. Let us know how your test goes....good to see you around again! It's been a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 It is not the same.....but Tru-oil sticks like a champ to epoxy in my experience. In fact that is mattharris75's finish of choice, currently in action on his 3/4 scale build. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 I'm more concerned about how the Timbermate will adhere to a Tru-oil layer since it is to my memory more like plaster? I'm sure that it is more likely than as not to gain some sort of purchase to a (polymised) oil surface than say, linseed, waxed or similar however I feel a little cautious. Simply because I look for a reason for something to work, the understanding part. How it works in the short term might be different to the longer term. @madhattr88 I figure that what you're working at is a replacement for the slurry grain filling that is common with Tru-oil....Birchwood Casey manufacture a grain filler/sealer to go underneath Tru-oil: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Wood-Finishing/Gun-Stock-Clear-Sealer-Filler.aspx I was thinking about this exact same thing last night for Nina's SG. I'd like to emulate the black cherry look of old SGs using oil. My thinking was to mix an oil paint (linseed plus pigment) with a polymerised oil like Tru-oil for the grain fill and background colour. Subsequent layers move through less pigmented oil back through to Tru-oil. I think these ideas can be knocked around to figure out a more workable and defensible solution. I'd be interested to hear what your reservations are against slurry filling....I've found it pretty effective for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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