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10pizza    38

 

Just now, Tekkelenburg said:

Zie je weinig zo'n tele met floyd!

Wel erg gaaf! :)

dank je! 

 

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Prostheta    1,148

Being able to make good working templates improves the end product by a magnitude in scale. I trouble myself thinking about how to set a perfect radius on weird angled corners for example....but that's important isn't it? I hope so....hahaha

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10pizza    38

As I'm making some progress lately and I've got a nice piece of birdseye maple I'm thinking of making this a complete build in stead of re-using the Ibanez neck as planned.

I'm not too big a fan of the Wizard -profile neck. Since this will be my nr 1 build, I'd like it to be to my preferred specs!

got to get me a nice piece of rosewood for the fingerboard and a nice inlay design. Looks like this project will be running a bit longer......

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10pizza    38

some advice needed:

The plan is to finish with Tung-oil. Should I first use grain filler or not? 

will the tung oil finish be hard enough to protect from quick dents?

 

thanks!

 

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SIMpleONe89    72
15 minutes ago, 10pizza said:

some advice needed:

The plan is to finish with Tung-oil. Should I first use grain filler or not? 

will the tung oil finish be hard enough to protect from quick dents?

 

thanks!

 

Zebrano has open grain but I guess it depends on the finish you want to achieve. I grain filled mine and it's very smooth and the wipe on poly gives a nice sheen to it. 

Not sure if tung oil is good enough as a protective finish. 

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Prostheta    1,148

It depends on how you apply the oil and whether it is actually "true" Tung or not. Lots of polymerising oils are great for sanding into the wood as part of the initial application. The oil and wood dust create a light slurry which packs into the pores. This is when finishing is very much a hands-on process (no joke intended) and becomes an extension of the finish sanding. A filler is a bit of a shortcut and fine if you're happy doing it that way. Maybe a bit unnecessary.

I've never finished with Tung myself. I prefer Linseed and lighter penetrative oils. Oils don't tend to provide a lot of resistance to denting, etc. however that's also part of what makes them great to work with; they can be touched up and cared for with time. Things like wear become part of a natural patina. Polymerising oils that set up a bit of thickness (such as those with spar varnish added) are more resistant, however they are more akin to lacquers than oils in my book. Oils are more penetrative finishes with a light film to me. Tru-Oil for example, builds. Linseed doesn't.

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10pizza    38

so,it looks like I'm going to have more time to build.. Just been laid off........

 

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2.5itim    152

Damn, I'm sorry to here that man!! Times are hard right now, we've laid off about 70% of our staff in the past year. 

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Prostheta    1,148

Oh man, sorry. That's just shitty luck. I got hit by that many years back and it hurt deeply. I can't quite let that resentment go. Have you got a plan going forward (other than more running, skiing, etc)?

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10pizza    38

it sucks, but it gives me opportunity to think about what to do next. Might start my own business in consulting and combine that with guitarbuilding and repairs. 

next week I'll be putting some more time in my guitarproject, that will help. Looking forward to getting more progress and start my first neck project.

I got a nice piece of birdseye maple. Trying to get two neck blanks out of it, but it will have to be by some economic sawing.

 

a question: at what time do you thin the neckbase to the right depth for the neckpocket? at start, or when shaping the neck?

 

 

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Prostheta    1,148

It all depends on the order you work in, and the specifics of the build. If the heel is going to be straight into the pocket, I try and thickness it to that early. You can do it later of course. There's no one time you "have" to do it. Whatever works best or seems most logical is usually right.

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2.5itim    152

i thickness my blank to what I want the heel thickness to be so mine is done from the beginning. 

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10pizza    38

Spent a day in the workshop last monday and got my body (almost) done:

  • trem backcavity route
  • electronics cavity route
  • recessed cavity cover from Zebrano
  • recessed tremcavity route
  • drilled electronics channels 
  • rounded body edges

I did the tremcavity at an angle to make sure I didn't cut through to the bridge pickup cavity. put a piece of scrap beneath my template to get the necessary angle.

Today I'll receive my jack and jack-ring so I'll know what diameter holes to drill for that. Also I'll receive my finishing oil today, so I can start working on the finish after that.

Yesterday I received my trussrod for the neck. Today my rosewood should come in. Next monday I've scheduled another day at the shop to start work on the neck. It will be a tele-style headstock to match the body, but ofcourse with a top-lock for the edge trem. I'll re-use the gotoh-tuners from my Ibanez neck.

for the neck shaping I still need to find me an affordable rasp. 

some pictures of progress:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bodyroute 05.jpg

bodyroute 01.jpg

bodyroute 02.jpg

bodyroute 03.jpg

bodyroute 04.jpg

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10pizza    38

thanks guys. First time takes a lot of time, but you learn a lot, so next one will be easier/quicker I guess.

some lessons learned:

  • don't overdo on the doublesided tape
  • get a shorter router bit with bearing for the next project for those recesses
  • route in very small passes with mahogany
  • be patient, be very patient

 

 

 

 

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Prostheta    1,148

Equally, don't under-do the double-sided tape! A template slipping is far worse. I couldn't agree more about using many small passes and having shorter bits. The disasters that people end up forced into when using a big 1" long bit in the absence of a better choice can kill a project in its tracks.

I wish I could be less patient by choice. I love working and I hate sitting on my hands.

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Norris    177
3 hours ago, 10pizza said:

for the neck shaping I still need to find me an affordable rasp. 

My Shinto rasp was quite reasonably priced and is a joy to use. It made short work of the rough neck carving before I moved onto scrapers

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10pizza    38

thanks @Norris

read some good stories about that one so I just ordered one online. Reasonable price, shipping makes it a bit more expensive, but I hope to forget that once I start working with it.

 

 

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Prostheta    1,148

Affordable, definitely. They're a mile better than machine-struck rasps, but nowhere near as good as a proper hand-struck rasp. They don't have a convex surface though, so you will have the same difficulties that @SIMpleONe89 has with his neck carving.

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Prostheta    1,148

Do you use the palm of your left hand over the top of the rasp? That is a grip I use a lot, otherwise definitely. Applying working pressure with one hand becomes tiring easily.

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