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30 minutes ago, SIMpleONe89 said:

So what's the minimum number of cauls for clamping a top? And should they arranged length wise or width wise?

 

If it's purely decorative and the edges will be hidden with binding from any excessive gluelines, 8-10 big F-clamps (at 1000lbs each that gets you 8000-10'000lbs). Ideally double that, especially if it's not decorative (like a carved top). If your clamp manufacturer doesn't offer specs on the pressure the clamps typically apply, look at equivalents in say, Bessey clamps and use the spine and handle as a guideline. A heavy duty thick spine with a tommy bar on the handle easily get you over a 1000lbs each.

That's what I've always tried to aim for anyway. The real trick to getting rid of gaps or big gluelines on the edges is using a large thick flat platen of material like plywood or whatever as a caul for the entire glueing face.

This is what cauls do for clamping pressure. It radiates outwards. The pressure should be more or less even when it reaches the boundary of the glueing line.

clamping-pressure-7[1].jpg

ref: http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/27123/how-to-glue-up-joints-positioning-the-clamps

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4 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Fantastic. I got all paranoid myself that I'd derailed your orderly work schedule at one point.... :unsure:

Don't worry, I don't have any schedule, unfortunately my job doesn't allow me... so I use these temporary moments of building inactivity to collect all the info I need. I really feel lucky to read all your technical stuff before screwing anything. Thanks again is the only I can say. :) 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi there, I'm back! :D

This summer we have temperatures very close to Venus' surface and guitar building is nearly impossible, the mini workshop is like a sauna... but I decided stop complaining and ge back to work.

I've been working this week on the neck, just flattening the back side and cropping the headstock:

 

087.jpg

 

I'm gonna use a TOM style bridge, so the neck must have an angle, one degree to be more precise. In order to get the angled heel, I need to raise the area where the headstock is, so I've added a 8mm stick under the nut and routed all the back side.

 

088.jpg

 

I got a new toy: a set of drum sanders which I also can use in the press drill. 

 

091.jpg

 

I've changed the design of the headstock. It was a last minute change, cause I thought the original one was too agressive. This one is a lil bit more elegant, I guess...

 

095.jpg

 

... but still killer...

 

098.jpg

 

That's all for now.

Cheers and thanks for watching!

 

 

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Whew! All is right with the world again. I admit to having forgotten about this .......and yet it felt like something was missing and I couldn't put my finger on just what it was.:D

Elegant and killer are good attributes for a headstock. And this one is absolutely both! I love it!

SR

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Thanks Scott.

I was busy this weekend and couldn't make much progress, but hey... I put the logo. :D

This time I've used a sheet of perloid... once it's sanded it looks very similar to MOP, and is quite cheap. I think I have enough for 50 more alien heads.

103.jpg

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On 5 August 2016 at 6:21 PM, psikoT said:

Hi there, I'm back! :D

This summer we have temperatures very close to Venus' surface and guitar building is nearly impossible, the mini workshop is like a sauna... but I decided stop complaining and ge back to work.

I've been working this week on the neck, just flattening the back side and cropping the headstock:

 

087.jpg

 

Cheers and thanks for watching!

 

 

This has just reminded me that I need to sort a more stable router levelling jig than I have at the moment!  Yours looks functional and stable.  That might well be the task for today! :) 

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6 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

This has just reminded me that I need to sort a more stable router levelling jig than I have at the moment!  Yours looks functional and stable.  That might well be the task for today! :) 

Go for it! Definitely worth the time you'll spend.

BTW It wouldn't be too hard for you to make one better than mine. 

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I'd be happy if I only had to work in the neck, it's my favourite part... the problem is that I can't finish it until it's attached to the body, due to the heel transition, so I'll need a body soon...

... lot of sanding is waiting to me. 

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I said soon! :)

Let's see what I can do with this boring piece of swamp ash... the fact that is lighter than common ash is true, just in case someone felt curious. As heavier as alder, I'd say. 

 

109.jpg

 

21 hours ago, Prostheta said:

That looks very sweet.

 

Thanks btw, I missed that!

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Very true. Unless you have a "standard design" for that part, it's the sticking point. 

 

Standard designs require a huge amount of precission which I can't not afford, unfortunately. Only thinking on something which has to be exactly X mm just freaks me out. When I have to make a lot of calculations, I have the feeling that something is going wrong.

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It's not that difficult to produce templates or aids to make standard bits and pieces. It's all about how they are employed, and in many ways they give you that control and manageability instead of introducing random problems. I think you could do with a Myka neck pocketing jig. ;-)

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I can make a guitar, but I'm totally unable to make a decent jig... :D

Well, I did some progress, but couldn't take any interesting picture. I just want to show a small improvement I've added to the joint between the fretboard ant the headstock. I've recessed the tip in order to give more air to the strings coming from the nut, as my headstocks usually have little angle...

 

110.jpg111.jpg112.jpg

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