Andyjr1515 Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 On 20 August 2016 at 9:36 PM, Prostheta said: G&W have become my go-to for toys, definitely. I think if you're in the EU, they're ridiculously affordable and have really developed their offering over the last few years. ...and there's another thing I'm going to blame David Cameron for in a couple of years time!!!! Looking really good @psikoT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Yeah. That's unless May also to have Cameron's cake and eat it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Man oh man, the wood choices you've made for this one look amazing together! This is going to be sublime. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Definitely. @psikoT's bench looks a place of calm and reminds me in many ways of @aidlook's. Every happens when it happens, and it does so as it had been planned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks guys, glad you enjoy the project. Today I was drilling the neck joint, so now it's officially one piece. One of the holes got misplaced a couple of millimeters, I don't know how it happened. And still need to flat the back side of the body... but man, I feel so lazy. There's still so much wood to put away... I got a lil bit crazy with the heel laminate but hey, better if there is more than less. And here an extra shot just for fun... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 "less is more....but more is more also" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Ok, I really need to finish all the routing soon, I'm tired of that ugly machine. Then I can focus on hand carving and also deep clean the working corner from dust and shaves. Every tool I take is full of crap right now. Here doing some planning. This time I'm gonna make a more discrete carving in the heel. I also want to try some straight lines, in order to make it more "tech" you know... I've routed the pre-carving in the top. I wanted to chek how that mahogany line looks. I think it will be a nice touch once it's carved, let's see... That's all for today... as I said, I'm gonna route everything in the next days and sharpen some hand tools, so I can sit down in calm and chip that wood away. I need metal music in the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 I'd make a template for that and use a coving bit like this: http://solidsurface.com/cove-backsplash-router-bits-w-ultra-glide-0153-bearing I'll describe how I'd make the template....I hope it makes sense. It would get the lines that you need. That bit just screams, "router". Firstly, I'd position three sticks of wood to outline the recess along the straight edges and lightly adhere them to the workpiece using 1cm square bits of double stick tape, Blu-tack or whatever. Enough to keep them in position. Then apply 2-3 drops of glue to the top of the sticks and place a piece of sheet stock over the top and clamp it down. That will adhere the outline to the template, and once the glue is dry you can pull the sticks and template stock off the body. Next, draw in the internal corner radii between the sticks with something round like a can, bottle, piece of pipe, etc. Cut the waste out using a coping saw and hand sand with sandpaper over that can/bottle/pipe until the internal radius meets the two sticks. Then use a bearing-guided router cutter to transfer the straight edges to the template sheet up to the points where the radii start/end. Remove the sticks with a chisel (hence using only drops of glue) and you have an instant routing template. Does that make sense? I can draw it out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Shame that you hate your router. I find them one of the most productive and flexible tools in the workshop. Great inventing new ways to screw things up with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 That makes sense, very similar method I use to make the templates for the pickups, That router bit looks very nice, didn't know they exist... ^^ thanks for the link, I really need some special bits, maybe for the next build. This time I'm gonna carve that by hand, I really enjoyed that step in my last build. 46 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Shame that you hate your router. I find them one of the most productive and flexible tools in the workshop. Great inventing new ways to screw things up with them. I agree, it's my best tool, I couldn't make a guitar without it. I just hate the shavings rain every time I use it, too nasty for such tiny place. It's also very stressful, nothing compared with the peace and relax of working with hand tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 I had the same problem the other day. Sometimes extraction doesn't quite cut it, and the router gives you an early-morning chip shower. These might be more readily available, being in the EU. They come without bearings though, so you'd need an 8mm collar and the appropriate size bearing. They're also Metric (8/12mm shank). http://www.neteberg.eu/en/moulding-bit-luna.html 21010-1002 is as large as 8mm shank goes, at a 12,5mm radius (about half an inch). The bearing would need to be 25mm OD and 8mm ID which I think is a weird size. Not sure what code that would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 I have a router bit quite similar to that one you posted, but smaller... and without bearing, which makes it totally useless to me. Didn't check the bearings they have though. Keeping my insane obsession for packing the router in its box and don't touch it anymore til the next season, I've proceed today with the pickup cavities. Oh man, that was a nasty chip storm, I really hate it. Just need to route the electronics cavity and we're done with the router. Actually, I've done already the inner part but stupid of me, I forgot to prepare the cover first, so I can not finish the outer part yet. Hope I can do it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Nice work tailoring your avatar. Yeah, this build definitely deserves all your brain cells on deck at once I think. It'll be quite something when finished. You can already see that taking shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 This is coming together very nicely indeed . I think the combination of the top and that lovely figured fretboard coordinates perfectly. The opening stages of the edge carve bode well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Thanks guys! I've finished the electronics cavity and the cover, Not sure about it, the grain doesn't fit very well... So all the routing is done, I guess... at least for a while. I already passed the vacuum deeply and put a lot of crap away. Now is when the Zen starts. I have to prepare the gouges. Quick honig to some of them and complete sharpening to others. I want to ask you guys, because I bought a cheap woodcarving set, they look nice for the price, nice steel and handles made of ash... but the problem is that the bevel has about 40 degrees (image on the right, sorry for bluriness) which is a pain in the ass to manage, compared with the 25 degrees of the common gouges (image on the left)... should I change the angle to 25 degrees or is it too crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Definitely change it to 25....even 17. 45 is going to make you work too hard and that is difficult to control and dangerous. I like the contrasting cavity cover...... a lot. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 40°? That's getting into lathe gouge territory isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Hi, thanks for the input. Got one of those wetstone sharpening artifacts, already changed the angle to 25... that was quick, but getting a razor edge is not so easy. At the moment I have a mess of gouges and barely can use them, only a small one which is saving me the day. Ash is also a little bit more difficult to carve than alder, so I'm slowly getting the grips. 22 hours ago, Prostheta said: 40°? That's getting into lathe gouge territory isn't it? I think they are for hand working, lathe gouges have a different shape. I'm not sure, I'll post a picture later on. Anyway, they are not in that territory anymore. But agree, that obtuse angle is weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I often go to smaller gouges when working difficult wood. Less surface area equals less resistance as the blade cuts through the wood. In other words they cut easier. I expect you are finding that the direction of the cut is more important with ash than alder as well. You may find you need to go to 20 degrees or less to get your razor edge. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 10 hours ago, ScottR said: You may find you need to go to 20 degrees or less to get your razor edge. Ahhh... interesting. I'll give it another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 I've never really spent time sharpening hand chisels beyond straight ones. For hand work I run 20-25° and 25-30° for hammered. Below 20° it would seem very fragile and perhaps liable to not parting the cut at times? I think by this point the alloy would define what you're best using? For example, O1 for super acute bevels. I presume the same applies to carving chisels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 I think the problem with the new gouges is that they have a very subtle curvature, compared with the semi-circular section I'm using now... anyway, the carving is not that big, I think I can manage only with this one. Work in progress: And these are the stupid ones... I'm just gonna ignore them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 8 hours ago, Prostheta said: I've never really spent time sharpening hand chisels beyond straight ones. For hand work I run 20-25° and 25-30° for hammered. Below 20° it would seem very fragile and perhaps liable to not parting the cut at times? I think by this point the alloy would define what you're best using? For example, O1 for super acute bevels. I presume the same applies to carving chisels. Well, I've been doing it for a long time now, and that is what works for me. Remember that stropping adds a micro bevel that tends to eliminate the fragile edge. They do require additional stropping every 20 or 30 minutes to maintain. The sharper they are the less effort it takes to push through the wood. Less effort means more control and less force / energy in the blade as it pops free of the wood. A duller blade or wider angle requires more force to push through the wood. It will have more energy as it pops free and that leads to unintended cuts in both wood and flesh. The deeper curved gouges tend to cut out curls of wood easier than shallower curved ones. The shallow ones are easier to bury the corners of the cutting edge into the wood where upon it stops cutting out curls and only makes smile shaped cuts in the wood. They do have their uses though amongst which are cleaning up cuts made with the deeper curved gouges. You'll discover what they're best for as you go. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 So I've started with the second level... this is going much quicker than the last time, now I have the shape in my mind. I just realized that I have to make some routing to the neck before continue (damn!) so this gets in stand by for a while. I've just flipped the body and started the top carving. This rosewood is really hard, but the gouge is doing the job very well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 Balls of steel, man. Or chisels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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