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Sarah's Mandolin


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Well from hand carving the channels, to hand splitting the binding in half to fit the channels better since I learned what happens if you secure binding that is too much taller than the channel is deep with elastic bands, to fitting all those tight curls and miters, you are correct sir; this was a right booger to bind. And while I know where all the many flaws are, I must admit it looks pretty cool.:)

Thanks for your vote of confidence.

SR

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It looks like quite a challenge, definitely. I can't say that I have tried anything that hard or whether I would manage it. There are a number of areas where it could be better, however just getting past the finishing post on a complex job like that is work enough you know? The most difficult thing I've ever bound was an f-hole, and that was a nightmare thanks to my lack of planning and experience working those areas.

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All true.

I can only imagine how difficult binding an F-hole would be, what with no bottom ledge to help hold it in place. I still have the fretboard to go, and it will have no bottom ledge as well, since the upper third of it sticks out into space.

Maybe I should pop over and see Pukko. He's a genius at that sort of thing.

SR

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Hi, Scott

I'd got a bit out of date with this....

....I kneel in my dribble and bow to the master.

I'm pretty certain this would have defeated me.  In the end, I would have had to rip off the binding, run a 45 degree bevel all the way round and declare that I've always liked the simplicity of an unbound mandolin....

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43 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Hi, Scott

I'd got a bit out of date with this....

....I kneel in my dribble and bow to the master.

I'm pretty certain this would have defeated me.  In the end, I would have had to rip off the binding, run a 45 degree bevel all the way round and declare that I've always liked the simplicity of an unbound mandolin....

Thank you sir!

Methinks thou art far too modest. I've seen your work, you know.:)

As far as the simplicity of unbound instruments go, I say that all the time!:D But, still........I've got this idea fermenting in my skull. If I ever build another mandolin, or similar instrument, it will have original lines, and I'm thinking of binding it with leather. Maybe give it a rustic outdoorsy. sitting around the campfire sort of look.

SR

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12 minutes ago, Muzz said:

Looking fantastic Scott, what has to be done before the neck goes on?

Very little left at this point as a matter of fact. I have to finish the inlays, contour the 15th fret cross piece to the body, shape and attach the fretboard extension support, and measure the fretboard against the neck's width. At that point the neck can be attached, which leaves matching the surfaces of the 15th fret crosspiece and fretboard support to the plane of the neck, binding, dotting, and fretting the fretboard and then gluing it up. After that tuning the box, by sizing the F-holes and finishing.

SR

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So I routed the inlays with some dental burrs provided by Gov't Mule some time back, (thanks man) and tried an old school fill from Siminof's how to book, which is ebony dust and Elmer's white glue. I like the way it dries matte.

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It shrinks a lot though....this is actually the second application.

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It does a real good job of matching the surrounding wood, though.

Time to mark up the fret board.

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Here it is trimmed to the width of the neck.

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SR

 

 

 

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The neck is set and the leveling has begun to get the neck, 15th fret cross piece and fretboard extension support all on the same plane.

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In the meantime I turned the fretboard into a blue green mummy.

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While the mummy cures, I did some shaping of the neck and finish sanding.

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SR

 

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9 hours ago, Prostheta said:

This is one of the very limited instances where wood glue and saw dust are recommended. Normally one would avoid that like the plague as a filler .

Actually, I've found that a water based sanding sealer and wood dust does a fine job and even takes oil just like the surrounding wood. We'll see about color. There is a bit of that kind of filling going on, and there will be some tinting in the burst that should render most of the little imperfections invisible. The one thing about this kit I don't like is the fit of the neck join. The dove tail makes it plenty tight, but there are gaps here and there that bleed glue, or at least show it. Reworking the fit would have changed the location enough to put the bridge in a less optimum location. So I just have to deal with it and use finishing tricks to cover it up. Likewise with my binding imperfections.

SR

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4 hours ago, psikoT said:

I love how this little bastard is getting shape, can't wait to see it with the sunburst. :D

 

 

49 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great progress, Scott.  And fantastic results!

Thanks guys! I gotta admit, it is a cool looking little instrument, and it feels good to hold. I'm looking forward to seeing the sunburst on it as well.

SR

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I've created a deadline for this thing as I'm going to visit my son and his wife, the lovely Sarah next month and I need to get the lacquer shot in time to cure. So I took a day off to get a three day weekend with that in mind and ended up with a large picture dump in the process.

You have been warned.:D

The frets on this little beastie are tiny. Therefore the little notches at the ends to overlap the binding are tiny too.

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Got 'er done.

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I use a couple of locator pins to hold it in place during the glue up.

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Tough to see eh? I can't afford for them to go very deep. As it was there was a little slop anyway that had to be carved out of the neck.

Gluing up the fretboard to an already set neck is not my preferred order of events, but with the extension involved, this is the way it must be.

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SR

 

 

 

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I used a caul on top and some high density foam on the bottom of the neck and backboard.

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Fretboard attached.

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I tuned the box as best I could.....to D. This was done by enlarging the F-holes. The larger they get the higher the pitch. The higher pitches come from the thicker center of the soundboard and the bass comes from the thinner edges. Since the F-holes are in the thinner area of the soundboard and enlarging them removes some of the thinner material shifting the balance of the surface to thicker material and higher pitches.....or so I assume the theory is.

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Then I coated it with a a dye mixture of Bordeaux red and Mahogany brown for my sandback.

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SR

 

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