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Zack

3rd Build (Orion)

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This is the one that I'm using to test several new techniques all at once (set in neck, laminated scarf, curved top glue-up, tinted lacquer fade, block inlay, So far it's gone okay although my table router has a bad habit of tear out and did a number to the alder and maple top. Fingers crossed that the wood filler doesn't act like screw-up highlighter.

The goal: My inlay skills as tested on scrap clearly were not up to this challenge so I went for plain old MOP blocks.

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Where I left off a year ago:

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I think she approves!

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Color test:

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Thanks! Everything so far is a near heart attack. I thing I'm at the point of being able to breath a little bit now. I put the first coat of sealer on a few minutes ago. Here are some progress shots. A couple of flubs: The ebony stain soaked into or found it's way under one of the mop blocks, Also the first 1/16" switch route went horribly wrong. It looks like my three year old scribbled it out so I had to double the width which looks okay. The fretwork is done and I attempted the semi-hemi and it turned out well enough. That is super time consuming. It's also the first time to make a cavity and cover from scratch which was strangely satisfying. They cut my mirror chrome logos backwards. "They said they don't remember cutting them in reverse"....ya think? Ha!

 

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The joy of MDF template making!

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The only glue on the frets is to fill the slots on the side. I think what you are seeing is dust that remained after I pulled the tape off the ebony.  Thanks!

Edited by Zack

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Looking very good, Zack :)

I particularly like the scarf feature and the way it carries on to the volute.

 I've known m-o-p absorb a tint from stains, but I've never seen anything like that black blob.  Is the stain from the bottom, or a soaked in top stain?

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It'll be dye blooming between the laminae. Shell can be fractured, and coupled with the low surface tension of spirit/alcohol based dyes.....

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Thanks and no particular inspiration that I can point to. I sketched out some designs a few years back that I'm finally making a reality. If you are referring to the Sully's garage guy, then I'm honored. I've spend quite a bit of time watching the videos and picking up info, although I'm trying to avoid tacos at the moment.

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Very nice! I love the design because it's an original, it's a Zack, and that (to me) is the beauty of being a luthier. 

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Thanks! I finished spraying color yesterday, and clear starts tonight so this is the long break before finished photosimage.jpegimage.jpeg

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Thanks for your vote of confidence, but I still have much to learn. Case in point: sand-throughs. I have yet to finish a guitar without 1 or 5:IMG_7022.JPGIMG_7023.JPG

ALSO: I should have used a whole can of sanding sealer so there are no low spots or pin holes that the lacquer can "fill in". It just will never work that way. That thing has to be flawless before any finish coats. I realize that NOW!! It almost would have been easier to scrap the black and start over the right way. Here is round 2 of spot filling:

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One huge plus is I discovered my scraper works much better than sanding for the sides. I have better control and can see the progress in real time vs sand and wipe, sand and wipe.

Oh well. I repaired the sandthrough spots with the airbrush yesterday. The humidity is crazy high this week. Would you spray any way and use blush eraser or wait a month for the humidity to drop? I can't spray indoors anymore because the fumes linger far too long.

Edited by Zack

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Obviously the best answer is to wait till the humidity drops.

:blink:

I have discovered that I don't have the patience for that, when spraying clear is next on the list. I nearly always try it and keep the blush remover close. Then decide whether to spray another coat based on how much if any blush I get. Anything more than small occasional patch showing up means I wait. I've got a cheap thermometer with a hygrometer on it and have found I can get away with 60%-65% humidity. One tip is to wait till the hotter part of the day. There will still be the same amount of moisture in the air, but the percentage will be lower since hotter air has a greater capacity for holding moisture. And that can make a difference as to whether blush forms or not.

SR

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Thanks, Scott. I don't see humidity dropping below 80% in the foreseeable future. Gotta love Mississippi. As a result I cannot promise not to start spraying with reckless abandon knowing full well that it will only lead to more misery. Whatever happens, I will promise more photos :thumb:

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I don't blame you.

As long as you are not going to be busy spraying, see if you can figure a way to check the humidity in the afternoon. I'm in Houston, which has got air you can wear too. We wake up to 95% humidity nearly every day, but when I check the guage in the garage after work it is usually around 60%. 98 degrees too, but that's a different story.

SR

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