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Mouradian-style 4 string bass


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3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Then carved the volute using pretty much every hand tool I have in my workshop plus a few borrowed from neighbours, local building sites and unsuspecting members of the public...

Very clean and graceful volute carve there Andy, attached to an equally clean and graceful neck.

I imagine borrowing tools from local building sites and unsuspecting members of the public is a more attractive proposition than borrowing from neighbors. You don't have to deal with raised eyebrows and crookedhead glares and annoying questions relating to how the tool is to be used and when it might be returned.:D

SR

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On 12/12/2016 at 9:03 AM, Norris said:

I'll be interested how you find their coloured nitro. I'm using their clear nitro when I finally get around to putting a finish on. Their metallics look interesting too

Hi, @Norris  

 

It's taken me a while to get round to this, but this was the Manchester Tech butterscotch job I did:

IMG_6544.JPG

IMG_6559.JPG

It worked fairly well.  Sanding sealer, then base colour coat and then the tinted 'clear'.  In real life, it's a bit lighter than these pics.

 

 

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"Prostheta would be proud of me"? You do know that the pneumonia didn't manage to kill me, right? :lol:

The main thing is the results; when something is clamped up with the right pressure and distribution you see the difference right away. Zero glue line and it just looks stellar. I'm sure that this turned out that way.

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5 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

"Prostheta would be proud of me"? You do know that the pneumonia didn't manage to kill me, right? :lol:

The main thing is the results; when something is clamped up with the right pressure and distribution you see the difference right away. Zero glue line and it just looks stellar. I'm sure that this turned out that way.

:lol:   I'm having a go at trying to be modern, hip and happening (See?  Already doesn't work) and abandon all correct grammar, spelling and punctuation in my posts.  I are sori if it implyd yu wuz d-seesd :D

Prostheta WILL be proud of me :D

And yes...it looks stellar. :thumb:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This has been progressing in between domestic duties and Christmas preparation and reparation activities :D

The swifts have been added to the headstock plate and the tuner holes have been drilled.  Still have to slim the back of the headstock a touch to allow the spindles to stick out far enough, but it will look something like this:

_MG_0022.JPG

The routing for the Smoothhound wireless Tx has been sorted.  Here it is from the front:

_MG_0072.JPG

 

...with full access (by owner's request) at the back.  Obviously still got some tidying up to do:

_MG_0070.JPG

The fretboard has been attached:

_MG_0081.JPG

 

The neck/body transition finished:

_MG_0117.JPG

Control chamber and pickup chambers routed / forstner drilled and chiselled:_MG_0130.JPG

Frets fitted and everything checked to make sure it all lines up:

_MG_0133.JPG

Don't worry that the fretboard looks a little wide on the bass-side of the body section - this will be sanded down a touch now that the final neck transition has been finished

I've still got quite a bit of 'fit and function' tweaking to do, but I should be able to get onto the finishing sometime next week :)

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27 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

_MG_0072.JPG

_MG_0070.JPG

 

If I were to find things to suggest as improvements on your work, Andy I would perhaps offer that you need some way to prevent the workpiece being scarred from working surfaces. There's a lot of them on there....or is that from planing or similar? A lot of technically-difficult feats, or ones that require certain machinery/setups to so easily have been managed which is always good to see. Brains beat expensive setups almost all of the time in my book.

It looks like there's quite a lot of space either side of the string at the end of the fingerboard. Was that intentional or can the bridge saddles be adjusted for spacing?

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2 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

 

If I were to find things to suggest as improvements on your work, Andy I would perhaps offer that you need some way to prevent the surfaces being scarred from surfaces. There's a lot of them on there....or is that from planing or similar? A lot of technically-difficult feats, or ones that require certain machinery/setups to so easily have been managed which is always good to see. Brains beat expensive setups almost all of the time in my book.

It looks like there's quite a lot of space either side of the string at the end of the fingerboard. Was that intentional or can the bridge saddles be adjusted for spacing?

The dints are on the back - and (probably to my discredit so "guilty as charged")  I haven't been worrying too much about them or it, @Prostheta because the back is going to have a couple of mm planed off as part of the 'fit and function' final stages  :blush

I intentionally left it a little proud because I wasn't entirely sure how the Smooth Hound was going to look and functionally sit - I couldn't afford to get too close to the front as it would have made the area hiding the unit from the front too thin and fragile but I wanted to make sure the unit also couldn't get knocked in normal playing position.  It's why I also haven't routed the control chamber cover rebate yet.

Where I do need some practice / guidance is the burning I tend to still get with the router from time to time.  The main router I use for the trickier stuff doesn't have speed control which is perhaps part of the problem but I suspect technique also has a pretty large share of the blame :rolleyes:

Yes - the bridge is narrow and has fixed spacing.  It was supplied by the customer but I've left all the build spacing to take a 'standard' width bridge to be retro-fitted in the future if needs be. The fretboard on the bass side will be narrowed slightly, as mentioned above, but the main telltale in terms of the narrowness is the string positions over the pole pieces!  

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They're not major by any means. A grain of prevention and habit-forming goes a long way to reducing that final bit of damage control! I like @KnightroExpress's yoga mat idea, whilst I still use those non-slip rolls of rubber matting for drawers. Yoga mats are hella expensive, and I can't nab one off the wife since Nina prefers to stick walk than fart in unusual positions.

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1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

They're not major by any means. A grain of prevention and habit-forming goes a long way to reducing that final bit of damage control! I like @KnightroExpress's yoga mat idea, whilst I still use those non-slip rolls of rubber matting for drawers. Yoga mats are hella expensive, and I can't nab one off the wife since Nina prefers to stick walk than fart in unusual positions.

:lol:

No - it's a bad habit I've got into.  

When I'm working on a finished instrument, or someone's pride and joy, I am very careful.  I use one of those padded table protectors or some squares of towelling and make sure that chippings don't get caught to dint or scratch.  I dust down and shake off before and after laying the body onto the surface and regularly check for caught detritus.:thumb:

The bad habit is - if I know there is some material still to take off - I like to work on a hard surface for chiselling and planing, etc, so prefer it where there's no cushioning.  The flaw is sometimes letting bits accumulate and get between the two surfaces or, worse, not spotting a hardened titebond drip!  Also, it is forgetting that, even if there is material to take off, it is still easier to get the surface finish and dimensional accuracy if there aren't also scratches and dents to contend with at the same time.

I shall add it to my growing list of New Year Resolutions 

 

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11 minutes ago, ScottR said:

I love the shot of the terminal end of the fretboard and the neck transition is nicely done as well. This particular design has a lot of visual movement and your work has it flowing nicely.

SR

It's very pleasing that you spotted that.  I've tried to incorporate a couple of subtle 'S' for (Chris) Squire's into the detail.  As you know, this was originally designed for Chris S by Jim Mouradian in his Yes days.  It will be interesting whether Nic, who this is being built for, spots the connection :D

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The basic build is done.  Now for the final thicknessing, sanding, filling and preparation for painting.  The through neck will be left natural and the top, sides and back wings painted cream.

Here's the back almost done ready for the final sand before filling:_MG_0149.JPG

 Is that a bit better @Prostheta ?

Sides and top still to do...

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