Skyjerk Posted December 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2016 4 hours ago, 2.5itim said: Lol sorry I had a brain fart yesterday, tenths of thousands yes! Anyways nice work!! No worries. I had the same brain fart initially, just in the other direction when I said thousandths :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 So, for Christmas I drilled the tuner holes and TR access, and routed for the Floyd Rose.... and a couple pix that show the carve a little better... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Very clean and neat routing and carve. Love that top wood, too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 8 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Very clean and neat routing and carve. Love that top wood, too Thanks! Yeah thats going to be an "11" top when I'm done with it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I really like the rosewood on the headstock. Black hardware Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 4 minutes ago, Skyjerk said: I really like the rosewood on the headstock. Black hardware Likewise. I'm a big fan of black hardware, and black on black wood. gives it a kind of stealth look. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Locking tuners with a double locking trem. Does that make it triple locking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 1 minute ago, curtisa said: Locking tuners with a double locking trem. Does that make it triple locking? Maybe I'll change the name of this model to the "Triple Lock" It might seem redundant, but I like the tuner style, and while the locking isnt much help in regular use, it makes string changing fast and easy and these tuners automatically trim off the extra string so thats a help too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Yep, I'm with you regarding the quick string change aspect of locking tuners. Nothing wrong with repurposing a secondary product feature to suit your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 That's my reason for loving locking tuners as well, they just make string changing as dead simple as can be. The Planet Waves auto trim tuners are a great choice, I have them on my old Ibanez S Series mongrel (Floyd and all!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Drilled holes for volume and tone pot, recess for the output jack (electrosocket), and the slot for the 5-way switch. the slot looks a little rough at the moment, but I have a solid plan to fix that right up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 This slot cleaned up nicely. Once stained and lacquered it'll look just peachy Cant say the same for what I had to do inside the control cavity to fit the switch. Its not prettyy but it'll get the job done. I had to take the top down to just over 1/8" with a dremel in order for enough of the lever to protrude through the top for the switch to function. I dont like the top being that thin, but its just in that spot, and since almost all acoustic guitar tops are thinner than this I'm guessing that as long as I dont hit the switch with a hammer it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Your routing is very clean. Any particular steps taken or just standard router bits / techniques? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Your routing is very clean. Any particular steps taken or just standard router bits / techniques? Nothing new or ground breaking. I just make sure my templates are attached firmly, route in shallow passes, and use a sharp bit. on maple I don't run the router at max speed to avoid burns of course if your comment was referring to the control cavity/switch routing picture, then my technique is wing it with a dremel and don't worry too much about how it looks :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 1 minute ago, Skyjerk said: of course if your comment was referring to the control cavity/switch routing picture, then my technique is wing it with a dremel and don't worry too much about how it looks :-) No - I'm very comfortable and practised in that approach It was the more unfamiliar straight sides and crisp, square edges of the other bits that had me intrigued.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 13 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: No - I'm very comfortable and practised in that approach It was the more unfamiliar straight sides and crisp, square edges of the other bits that had me intrigued.... I generally use a 3/8" carbide pattern bit for routing body cavities and I take multiple passes of 1/8" or so and I don't force the router through the wood, I let it cut at its own pace if that makes sense. I'll hog out as much wood as I can ahead of time on my drill press and just clean up the edges with the router i also make sure my templates don't have any nicks or mess-ups. If I nick a template by accident, it's done. I don't try to work around the nick by hand. of course I try not to ruin my templates :-) I use the masking tape and CA glue method to attach them and make sure they can't move AT ALL. those are my general rules. impatience and a desire to get done as quickly as possibly are the enemies of clean routing :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Lovely documentation on this build Chris. Sharing at this level of detail is a wonderful gift and insight into your processes and project development! That switch recess would have all kinds of neuroses firing off in my head all at once, but as you say....it does the job. I noticed that you have the monster Dewalt DW735....from what I know of that, it kicks out chips faster than an extractor can remove them! It's on my personal list of things to buy, but maybe not for a few months yet. How does it work with respect to snipe? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted January 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Lovely documentation on this build Chris. Sharing at this level of detail is a wonderful gift and insight into your processes and project development! That switch recess would have all kinds of neuroses firing off in my head all at once, but as you say....it does the job. I noticed that you have the monster Dewalt DW735....from what I know of that, it kicks out chips faster than an extractor can remove them! It's on my personal list of things to buy, but maybe not for a few months yet. How does it work with respect to snipe? Thanks for your kind words On the DeWalt, I find it does a bang-up job. Nothing seems to slow it down and it cuts nice and clean. I did my first blade change a couple months back and it could not have been easier. Took 10 minutes and was up and running. The blades last a good while. Only reason I had to change it was because I put a board through that had a broken off staple in it that I didnt see and it nicked the blades and everything after that had a ridge where the nick was. I have not noticed that my dust extractor has any problems keeping up and its not a super-badass extractor. Its a grizzly 1.5 HP collector. I wish the width was like 1/2" wider I have the infeed and outfeed tables for this which I consider to be a must. they help with snipe. I get a little bit when I give a little assist by applying some downpressure both in and out and the snipe is really minimal. You have to look really close to see it, and one pass through the drum sander and its gone. In its price range I dont really think it can be beat Edited January 1, 2017 by Skyjerk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted January 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 This'll be my last "working" update to this thread till spring when I move on to finishing. Of course if anyone wants to ask me anything or discuss I'm happy to oblige I installed all the hardware yesterday and wired it up. It was a goal to have the "build" part done in 2016 and I made it with 4 hours to spare. theres work to be done yet, of course. Aside from finishing it needs a final sanding and tweak to a line or two here and there, but I expect I'll play it over the winter and I dont want to have to sand more than needed and playing it will make it even dirtier. the maple has some mahogany dust and such smudging it up. It'll need the fretwork and fretboard cleaned up etc. I usually do all that as the last step after its all laquered, sanded and buffed out. I gotta say, I really like the 59/Custom hybrid pickup. Its real beefy and thick sounding. Lots of mids compared to a JB, but theres plenty of highs to cut through the mix. If I do say so myself, it was a good call Anyway, heres some pix as it stands right now. I'm planning a popped flame and red top in nitro. Real glossy the way I like em the back and neck I'm leaving natural. Transparent, maybe a very small tint to darken it just a touch more than the clear will. Oh, and the whole shebang weighs in at 8.3 lbs for those that care about such things. The reason its that high is because of the trem block. You've all probably heard of brass big blocks to increase sustain? Well mine is made of tungsten, which is super heavy. Its easily 5x the mass of the stock trem block that comes with a Floyd Rose. It adds 3/4 lb. to the weight so without it the axe would weigh 7.5 lbs. One thing I'll need to correct. I was very careful to account for where the screws for the locking nut go when positioning the carbon fiber rods, but I had completely forgotten anout the string retainer bar. One of the screws was diverted by the carbin fiver and now the bar is a little crooked. I'll have to re-drill those holes because that crookedness just wont do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Argh, the old "what's in the wood?" gremlins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Skyjerk said: On the DeWalt, I find it does a bang-up job. Nothing seems to slow it down and it cuts nice and clean. I did my first blade change a couple months back and it could not have been easier. Took 10 minutes and was up and running. The blades last a good while. Only reason I had to change it was because I put a board through that had a broken off staple in it that I didnt see and it nicked the blades and everything after that had a ridge where the nick was. I have not noticed that my dust extractor has any problems keeping up and its not a super-badass extractor. Its a grizzly 1.5 HP collector. I wish the width was like 1/2" wider I have the infeed and outfeed tables for this which I consider to be a must. they help with snipe. I get a little bit when I give a little assist by applying some downpressure both in and out and the snipe is really minimal. You have to look really close to see it, and one pass through the drum sander and its gone. In its price range I dont really think it can be beat That's exactly why I have it on my list. It's highly-rated and sturdier than most thicknessers at that price point. The head deflection should be reduced by the way it's built, so my main concern is as to how much snipe it causes in standard trim. Hot gluing a couple of longer sacrificial strips solves most snipe, but knowing how bad it is usually is a good start. I agree about extended in/outfeed. My main driver in this eventual purchase is as to how it represents a good purchase for a space-limited user. I gather that it's like a jet engine though, so hearing protection will be mandatory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted January 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: I gather that it's like a jet engine though, so hearing protection will be mandatory. Absolutely. This beast roars. I have -30 db earmuffs I wear at the shooting range and they do a great job with this and my other really loud tools. My angle grinder that I use with my holey galahad for top and neck carving is also an ear killer. The muffs make short work of both though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Ear defenders are great at work for hiding my loud swearing when "machines make things go wrong". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Beautiful job. I can't wait to see the pooped red top. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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