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Operation Shoestring


curtisa

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16 hours ago, meatloaf said:

I hope you don't mind a bit of a newbie asking a question, how important is the rip and flip, I have a piece of maple for the neck of my next project but I haven't a table saw to rip it and was thinking of using as one piece, I understand the reason behind this process but is it necessary to make a stable neck?

I just finished a build with a one piece maple neck - no ripping and flipping. So far so good. I did let the wood sit indoors for several weeks before using it and it seems to be holding steady. Of course, I haven't made it through a few season changes yet...

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Just the nature of the wood I suspect. Tas oak is usually pretty plain and uninteresting to look at. It's engineered to grow straight and fast to get it on the shelves quickly. The end grain stands out like crazy but a lot of that variation isn't as pronounced running with the grain.

There's a faint smudge visible on the vertical sides of the neck blank to the right of the drill bit which is about the limit of the grain variation on most pieces of hardware store Tas oak I've come across:

20161220_162753.jpg

 

Although a couple of the floorboards in the house have a bit more of the ash-like grain pattern you're perhaps familiar with:

20161229_074233_HDR.jpg

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The addition of a couple of CF rods may be unwarranted, but I won't be accused of doing things by halves:

20161221_155215.jpg20161222_132126.jpg

 

With the fret board cut to taper it's time for clamp city. Given that these rods are fully encased in heatshrink tape, and the adjuster nut is embedded in the stainless steel cylinder I'm not bothering to protect the truss rod channel from glue seepage with the old sticky tape trick:

20161223_153050.jpg

 

Out of the clamps and trim off the excess from the blank.. The precut nut that ships with the headless system appears to be 16" radius, so the fretboard gets sanded to match:

20161224_103714.jpg20161224_104115.jpg20161227_153510_HDR.jpg

 

Side dots in black. May not have been the best choice for visibility, but if it doesn't work in practice I can always drill them out and replace with some slightly large white ones:

20161228_095619.jpg

 

Fret not:

20161228_150626.jpg20161228_150959.jpg20161228_151419.jpg20161228_152827.jpg

 

With a little bit of CA wicked into the ends to make sure the frets stay put the 16" aluminium (aluminum?) radius bar gets repurposed as a clamping caul:

20161228_153538.jpg

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1 minute ago, ScottR said:

It actually looks a lot like pine in that top pic. It surely is much harder though, being a species of Eucalyptus.

SR

Most definitely. Tas oak has a Janka hardness of 6000 Newtons. Radiata pine (as sold here, possibly not the same species of pine you're used to) is 3400N.

Photos aren't being helped by the lighting in the workshop, nor by my phone camera. Tends to wash out everything.

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That's a better scale--good ol' wikipedia.

One thing that caught my eye was cocobolo listed at 2960....and my memory said it was in the 1100's and experience says it was not especially hard. so I checked several online scale listings and found it at both 2960 and 1136. Strange. Like everything there are several common names but only one species listed.

SR

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On 12/31/2016 at 1:56 PM, curtisa said:

Cheers Scott, I've made it kicking and screaming to 2017. Hope your new years celebrations don't take too much out of you too.

Nah, my new years celebrations nearly always entail coddling a small dog that's scared to death of the fire works exploding outside our bed room window.

SR

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Possibly bending the rules a little bit, but in keeping with the budget (ish) nature of this build this figured Tas Blackwood top only set me back sixty smackers. As a bonus it came with an extra piece big enough to be a headstock veneer. If only I had a headstock...

20170103_152850.jpg

20170103_160548.jpg

 

Don't forget that there's a lot of chambering going on in there, so the lack of much in the way of clamping cauls  is deliberate:

20170105_173419.jpg20170105_174406.jpg

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Pickup cavities next. Template is oversized because I use the pattern ring on the router with a 1/4" diameter bit to keep all the corner radii nice and tight:

20170106_110054.jpg

 

Hog out the excess (carefully!) with the trimmer fitted with a 3/8" bit (don't worry if it looks a bit rough at this stage), then follow up with the big router with the 1/4" bit and pattern ring:

20170106_111020.jpg

 

Then for the sneaky bit to create the extra depth for the pickup ears:

20170106_114638.jpg20170106_115336.jpg

 

Perfect fit:

20170106_115938.jpg

 

Bridge pickup is a repeat of the neck:

20170106_122129.jpg

 

Checking for bridge location with a couple of pieces of black cotton. The bridge will need to be recessed about 1.5mm to compensate for the slightly beefy baseplate this thing has:

20170106_134014.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

One of these days I'll learn to take some more work-in-progress shots, but I get carried away too easily and before I realise it I've jumped miles ahead and failed to take pictures along the way.

Belly cut roughed out with the Turbo Plane (damn quick!):

20170115_111309.jpg

 

Edges rounded over and first coats of oil going on. No top carve on this one, just a flat slab which speeds things up a lot:

20170122_144947.jpg

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