Prostheta Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 What's that one again? Olive Ash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 2 minutes ago, Prostheta said: What's that one again? Olive Ash? Close! Tamo ash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 That's the one. Very cool stuff, and a new one to me since you started using it. Japanese Ash eh? Sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 12 hours ago, Prostheta said: That's the one. Very cool stuff, and a new one to me since you started using it. Japanese Ash eh? Sweet. Indeed! It always has some really cool figure along with the huge grain. Ibanez has used it on acoustics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 I love that green burst! Blue was the perfect choice for the edges. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratsRdivine Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Sweet work, and love your shape choice - I have always loved the aggressive look of V's and Explorer styles. I used to be a UV chemist, formulating 100% solids sprayable coatings for industry, and still own one of the 20,000 watt iron-doped irradiators (ballast pulls 100 amps on ignition, and weighs over 600 lbs), so I was considering dusting it off and using it on guitars, so I was wondering why you don't use UV for all coats, not just sealer? I recall formulating the clears, and they were difficult to buff out, until I started using Henkel aliphatic urethane oligomers (fancy word for same stuff in 2K urethane), and was able to cut and buff just like 2K automotive. That was 17 years ago, so I imagine now there are UV cured topcoats that buff great. Best part is sanding to powder 30 seconds after spraying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 I tried using the top clear coat in the UV cure finish a few times. It was a huge pain to brush on and never leveled out enough to use well enough without a ton of heavy sanding. The brand im using says its possible to spray but its way too thick to spray out of a conventional gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 3 hours ago, Prostheta said: Hose? ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Hose it on it you can't spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Got the final clear on the dragonburst. also here is a solid granadillo neck im working on. This stuff has a reflection just by planing. I cant wait to see what its like buffed and oiled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Oil might well lower the apparent reflectivity. Looks spectacular though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Very nice work. The build is great but I'm most impressed by the finish. Really vibrant and smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 7 hours ago, Prostheta said: Oil might well lower the apparent reflectivity. Looks spectacular though. Yeah, i dont expect it to be quite the same with oil. Its just really cool to see how it has such a high reflective property. I imagine if it was burnished it would be like glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 The clear is on! This one sprayed great. Very minimal orange peel. Should be really easy to buff out. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 So I think im going to have to scratch the zebrawood SS carved top. It cracked in so many places that its just not going to work. Its too bad, for the price i paid for that 1 piece of zebra i could have gotten 3 mahogany bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 That is too bad. I'm guessing they are big enough to be ugly? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 34 minutes ago, ScottR said: That is too bad. I'm guessing they are big enough to be ugly? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Wow, those are not going in the direction I expected. That almost looks like dry rot, are they punky at all? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 18 hours ago, ScottR said: Wow, those are not going in the direction I expected. That almost looks like dry rot, are they punky at all? SR Punky? It doesnt seem like dry rot to me. Ive had a lot of problems with the dark grain on zebrawood cracking like that. But never this much. What is punky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 punky means its soft or rotted- think of a cork in the middle of a piece of maple- if you felt along the maple- it would be hard- but when you pressed on that cork- it would be punky/soft. Extreme punky would be almost crumbly- like a branch that has been in the woods for years that is soft/ rotted and crumbles apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 I have never seen zebrawood crack like that- how dry is it where you live? Do you know the moisture content of that board by chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Luis, you have probably seen punky wood in spalted pieces. Scott, he lives in desert dry climate. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 That is very unusual. If the surface was subjected to intense drying, sun or heat then I guess quick longitudinal shrinkage might do that? I would more suspect that there was something else at play. I've seen this in end grain from overly aggressive kiln drying ("honeycomb") but not in finished pieces. I wonder if the tree was felled and subjected to shock as it landed, or had grain compression from growing on a slope, etc? Very odd indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Definitely not dry rot. The grain is hard and uniform. IVe had this problem a lot with zebrawood, which is why i chose to never buy it online again. But this time i got it from a local supplier. I dont know the moisture content, but they claim its always below 8% on the stuff they carry. Really frustrating though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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