103801061982 Posted July 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 That's a classier set up than mine Andy - I'll check out those rods. I think the mistake I made was to look specifically for go bars and therefore all the prices I found were inclusive of the 'luthier' surcharge (which seems to be randomly added to some things). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 RIghtho, no point in delaying the inevitable so glued on the bridge. Firstly I had to make a caul to fit over the ribs on the inside and one for the top of the bridge. Thickness was a bit of an issue due to the delicate little clamps I've got. After that it was measure, mask, measure, scrape off finish, measure, pin the bridge, measure, glue, panic, measure, clamp. Once all's in place clean up any squeeze out - hence the glass of water. As discussed just enough glue for the job so minimal squeeze out and zero movement due to the pins (which went through the saddle slot). It's curing at the moment. Fingers crossed, though I don't know why - the fit was good, and there's an acceptable amount of pressure on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 103801061982 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 Clamps off. I'll take that. It's looking a bit like a guitar now. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 Well bugger. I said I wasn't going to do this but it seems to have happened anyway. I went and bent sides for the cutaway. Bent by hand again as last time, but a whole lot less cup and scorching. With this set I soaked the sides first and bent at around 180. They were also a bit thinner, though having measured the thickness again, a drum sander is now definitely on the to buy list. Thinking Jet 16-32? I was a bit foolhardy with the cutaway. Not 100% sure how its usually done so Ive approached this how I think violin sides are put together. The blocks are big, but will be taken down a lot. The plan for this one is to do away with the bolts and use a romanillos style wedge joint at the bass side of the neck. the treble cutaway will be glued to the side of the neck block but sunk in 2 mm to keep it flush with the heel. Not sure if that makes sense. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 Who ordered the hot weather again? it's 26 degrees in the house of dust. Today I've glued the cutaway piece to the sides and trimmed down to 120mm wide. This is what I was ham fisted trying to describe above. . The one edge has been left square for the bevel insert to butt against, though I've a feeling I'm going to have to cut out a section and drop in a bigger block - my thinking on the bevel has changed a bit...... We'll see. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 6, 2017 Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 19 hours ago, 103801061982 said: ...having measured the thickness again, a drum sander is now definitely on the to buy list. Thinking Jet 16-32? I've been considering that myself. The 10-20 looks equally nice. It's a big budget machine for most though, and rich for my blood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) The sander would have to be second hand, I couldn't justify dropping 1500 on a machine, much as it would make life easier. used ones seem to go for around 600 ish. Still a bit of an investment, but I think going diy wouldn't save much on this and would probably not be as useable. This went quite well, though the saw was screaming through it. Fillet for under the backs bevel (sitting on plans just to show that sometimes there is a bit of fore though). Edited July 6, 2017 by 103801061982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 6, 2017 Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 I like how you go about planning work from drawings....very visually oriented! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 Drawing things out has certainly saved me a bit of timber over the last couple of weeks. There are also a few things that i really can't visualise without having it on paper infront of me, the bevels being one of them. Neck angle vis a vis top doming being another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 OK. I've made quite a lot of noise and a hell of a lot of dust. These are the two bevel supports, the larger one for the top. It'[s nice wood but far too wormy to use for a neck and a bit soft to use for anything else. Yesterday I glued on the one for the top. After a bit of clean up it was a surprisingly good fit, though it took a lot of swearing and clamping to get to that point. Today Ive been investigating whats going on at the neck joint. This is a view looking from the top down. I've wetted the cutaway second and am persuading it into the curve to fit the neck block. Brown shorts time. Thankfully no cracks. but it is quite springy so I may thin a bit and possibly get the iron out. Ill leave it trussed up like this overnight and see where we are in the morning. I'll be surprised if this box goes together as painlessly as the last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 17 minutes ago, 103801061982 said: These are the two bevel supports, the larger one for the top. It'[s nice wood but far too wormy to use for a neck and a bit soft to use for anything else. Those are lovely. What flavor of tree did they grow in? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Black Limba. This piece was half of a neck blank that was full of holes when I received it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 I was almost going to say it looks like Blackheart Sassafras. They don't appear to be related, but they share a lot of visual similarities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 It feels like a while since I've fiddled with this. Slow nervous progress with this - definitely out of the comfort zone thing. Anyho the neck heels been roughed out and sides glued in. This is the wedged side. Bit of sanding to do here. I like this method as it negates both neck fitting and having to cut a tightly fitting slot for the side. For a first attempt its left quite a nice fit. As a whole though, I still think I prefer building the neck and body separately as I think body construction is much easier this way. This doesn't really show it well, but I've tried a 20mm manzer style wedge (treble side large bout +10mm, bass -10)- just to make things that bit more fiddly. Looks comfy though. This is where we end the day. The support for the cutaway bevel is in - not pleased with the fit but hey, its an experiment so I'll take any win. The angled cutaway at the heel looks ok, but I'm not sure how much it adds to the whole general mish mash. It was head work to bend to the right slant and clamp. Not on the repeat list.... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Thunder and lightning here. Enough to rejuvenate the mojo on this one - who knows. Anyway I got sick of the sides flopping around last night and wasn't too confident in the molds ability to hold them so on went the back. It was fairly gratifying that it was still where I left it in terms of dome. No drama with the gluing. No gaps around the rim and no excessive squeeze out. The diy spool clamps seemed nicely usable. Here's a nice blurry photo for you. There's no light in here today. And another one As you can see I got hungry and took a bite out of it. The bevel is going to carry on right through the heel, Hence the off set inlay o the back. Don't know if itll look 'right', but we'll see. Thank for reading chaps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103801061982 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Well strike when the will is there I suppose (and when the humidity is good). What I'm trying to do there is brace more heavily on the treble side. After trimming the braces gradually increase in size and width. The two on the ends carry on under the brace already glued to the sides. I left the top a little thick so it copes with a stiff sand once the box is together. Speaking of which. A forest of clamps. No gaps. Small bit of squeeze out. Followed by a stern talking to from a rasp. Ill be glad when this ones done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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