Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 I've decided to not to put binding on the top. With the internal routing done, it was ready for the top and sides to be glued on. First I stained the inside of the 'f'hole chamber, then glued the top, then the wings: Note that the wings are deeper than the through part of the neck. That's because I'm going to scoop the back to match the curve of a convex-curved carve to the top - hence no binding. This is where one of my favourite hand-tool acquisitions comes in - the wonderful Veritas pullshave: Then a round-over around the edges with an appropriate router bit and it's starting to look the part, albeit with a few lumps to smooth out before the finish sanding: Next job will be the smooth convex curve to the top. As always, thanks for looking and for your encouraging feedback 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 COOL! I plan on doing a spector type build (one day) with curved body like that but planned on building router sleds with a base with curved base legs. I am not sure I want to brave all that hand work. My luck I would never getthe curves smooth 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 You are FAST! Looking great so far. Looks like the face of the neck is level with the top of the body. Do you match your bridge height entirely with the fingerboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 1 hour ago, a2k said: You are FAST! Looking great so far. Looks like the face of the neck is level with the top of the body. Do you match your bridge height entirely with the fingerboard? I'm not sure why this one is going so fast but pleased that it is The body is angled from the join point and, if I've got my calcs right and physical mock ups right, it should leave strings flat on the frets with the saddles at their lowest points. I've got the angle wrong on the last couple of builds and so have had to tweak the saddles a bit - this is why I did the belt and braces approach for this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 I've still got to round off the sharp edges of the 'f' hole, but this is starting to head towards the final shape. Because of the figuring you tend not to see is as much, but the curve of the top is around 1/2 of the curve at the back. Pete will use this predominately for noodling on the sofa - it has a very comfortable sitting while playing feel. It also is VERY light....hmmmm...have I forgotten something important? Top CHECK Back CHECK neck CHECK...hmmm...seems to be basically all there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 In reviewing the progress on @Norris's epic build, I realise how close my teardrop is to Norris's very slick feature. Norris will understand the significance of me having been born and brought up in Wolverhampton if it turns out that I have subliminally stolen his design 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Rock musicians steal ideas. Jazz musicians pay homage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 On 24/02/2017 at 1:46 PM, Andyjr1515 said: In reviewing the progress on @Norris's epic build, I realise how close my teardrop is to Norris's very slick feature. Norris will understand the significance of me having been born and brought up in Wolverhampton if it turns out that I have subliminally stolen his design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 We had visitors over the weekend but I was able to sneak down the cellar every hour or so to fix a couple of frets into the fretboard. By this morning, I'd done all 24 This is it loosely positioned. I usually fix the fretboard before fretting but I thought I'd try a different approach this time. There seem to be pro's and con's for both methods. I'm going to leave the top un-dotted and just have side dots. Also note the relatively modest fanning and that it is even more modest at the nut end to reduce any playing difference (although in the fan-fretted guitar I once tried it didn't feel any different to play anyway) over the first octave. Time will tell if it makes any difference to feel or sonics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Unusual set. Normally the fret perpendicular to the centreline is at least the 5th fret, usually 7-9th. Did you guys discuss and test the ergonomics beforehand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 56 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Unusual set. Normally the fret perpendicular to the centreline is at least the 5th fret, usually 7-9th. Did you guys discuss and test the ergonomics beforehand? Yes, unusual Yes, discussed Good idea or really, really bad idea? No idea To be honest, neither of us have any real experience with playing multi-scale so it's a bit of a leap in the dark. However, because it is such a relatively small scale difference (1", whereas 2" and 3" seem to be quite common), the angle at the upper end is no steeper than, say, the one I tried out a year or so ago. The angle at the lower end is, of course a lot less. I won't know until the headstock's done and I can get a set of strings on, but with having just rough-shaped the neck...: ...I've now been able to 'shadow play' it and, certainly to my playing style, it feels OK. Because it is short scale, it feels like a 34" multiscale bass feels from the 5th fret up. However, like all leaps in the dark, in reality it might well turn out to be a lemon - so I'll mentally get ready in case I have to build him another one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Everything is an opportunity to better oneself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 And so to the headstock. I will be following the recent theme of trying to reflect the essence of the body shape in the shape and carve of the headstock. It will be faced with walnut from offcuts of the body top, filed away at the end to expose the maple and mahogany underneath. The challenge is trying to create a bit of harmony shape-wise, while still trying to fit the practicalities in (physical size and accessibility of the tuning heads, straight string-runs, etc.. This is what I've come up with so far: I'm going to have a bash at slicing a 3-4mm sliver of walnut on my extremely cheap and small bandsaw today. If I am successful, I can cut the headstock shape from it, including the tuner holes, and make absolutely sure that everything fits, is straight, etc, before taking a fretsaw or rasp file to the headstock bit of the through-neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 I got the headstock plate done and also added the mahogany wings to the headstock. The plate isn't glued yet, but here's how it's looking: The back is a similar concept to the Mouradian-style bass I finished just before this one, using an offcut from the neck to make the control chamber cover with. I will be fixing the cover with a couple of magnets with an access thumb groove. This is most definitely my fastest build so far! Unless MrsAndyjr1515 insists I do some useful and necessary stuff in the next few days (which as you can imagine is quite likely, based on that I haven't done anything useful or necessary non-build wise for past few weeks ), the basic build will be complete maybe even before the end of the weekend! I'm certainly at the 'final list' stage. Much of the speed is down to the relatively small number of snags and boo-boos. I'm sure it's not the sign of a new trend but more probably that, statistically, at least ONE of my builds had to be major-stupid-mistake free! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Looking good so far. I tried a 6 string multiscale bass once and first position was absolutely uncomfortable. I dont recall the scale length on that low b- but it had to be atleast 35 if not 36 and my short stubs were stretching to the max to reach that b string. It just seemed to put my hand in an unnatural position down on the low notes. maybe it needed "gettin used to". Maybe I just need longer fingers. I dont claim to know jack squat about multiscales- but this one actually looks comfortable in those lower positions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Love the control cavity cover matching the through-neck! I'm hoping to build a 6-string multiscale, probably Gibby-to-Fender scale, and think the perpendiclular 1st like your, or possible 3rd is where I'm leaning. ... I'll just wait until you're done to decide! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 concerning the fret fan - I'm actually considering doing the opposite thing - parallel at the bride and max fan at the nut. Also with a relatively small fan. The reason is that's going to be a guitar with a floyd rose But with that I'll wait until I play my personal leap in the dark - the multiscale that I'm building right now. Depending on how that plays we'll see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 I know there are cheaper alternatives - and you can make your own (see the excellent tutorial elsewhere on the website) - but I do like the look and ease of installation of the original black-surround Luminlay. As long as you are using an accurate brad-point drill, it really is a piece of winkle: ...even for the difficult bits: I'm not completely sure about the contrasting washers, but this is broadly how the headstock will look. It will, of course, finish darker: This is what I mean by trying to reflect the body shape in the headstock in terms of the top and bottom horns and the offset: ...and - excusing the unfinished volute carve - the tuners similarly angled: I don't know if it makes a jot of difference, but it keeps me amused at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Wow! You've gotten a lot done whilst I was traveling. This is looking Great Andy! I love the subtle contours and the F-hole. And the bookmatch. I see a huge bearded Viking (three quarter top view) in that thing. Maybe it will play like a berserker. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 1 hour ago, ScottR said: Wow! You've gotten a lot done whilst I was traveling. This is looking Great Andy! I love the subtle contours and the F-hole. And the bookmatch. I see a huge bearded Viking (three quarter top view) in that thing. Maybe it will play like a berserker. SR Thanks, Scott Just started finishing. Being black walnut, it has darkened significantly and some great quilting is beginning to show. I'm really excited by how I think this might turn out I'll take a shot in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 I always put an initial sealing coat on early - it gives me a better idea of the likely final colour and also shows up any missed sanding lines or glue residue! I'm getting really excited by this - I see quilting......everywhere ...and that leads me to a conclusion that, although I LOVE the organic feel of a tru-oil slurry and buff approach, this has simply GOT to be gloss varnish to bring out that quilt! I say that partly on the back of my experience on the back of my OM acoustic build. When sealed, it was an interesting figuring, and with only the tiniest evidence of quilt banding. Then I put on the gloss and this happened: Now, I don't expect anything like that, but gloss will certainly enhance any that is there... Only thing I may need to reconsider is the hardware colour. I have black, but now think it probably needs to be lighter to lift and contrast. Probably chrome, but...hmmm...would gold/brass be too bling? The back has also darkened nicely : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 I dunno Andy. The last time I did a walnut top I used black hardware and liked it just fine. I think it lets the wood take its rightful place as the center of interest. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 43 minutes ago, ScottR said: I dunno Andy. The last time I did a walnut top I used black hardware and liked it just fine. I think it lets the wood take its rightful place as the center of interest. SR Yes - that looks lovely. Having said that, mine is going to be quite a bit darker. Normally, I shy away from gold but it might lift it a bit What I've done is decided to hedge my bets. The hardware I prefer to use isn't expensive, so I've ordered a set in gold too and I'll see which one looks best! The spare set will go into the bits box for another time. The other quandary is varnish or not??!!! I simply LOVE the organic feel of a nice bit of wood that has been tru-oil slurry and buffed. Nowadays I do that as a prep before varnishing, which I've just done on this: I know that the grain will be visually enhanced no end by a gloss coat, but, man, this thing feels SO GOOD If it was mine, I'm pretty sure I'd go for the tactile over the bit of extra visual bedazzlement. Hmmm....I think maybe I'd better sleep on this one.... Still got to do a tiny bit of tidying up on the neck but this is rapidly heading towards being finished! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 On 3/5/2017 at 2:49 AM, Andyjr1515 said: I think you've somehow trapped Gimli the Dwarf in the bookmatching 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Call me shallow, but I'd go for the bling gloss finish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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