First time anything

[Phaddie]

42 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Basically, the grain filler is rubbed into the wood with the grain, then buffed off against the grain with jute or other coarse sacking when it starts to set up. That removes most of the surface filler, leaving the pores more or less filled. Same as always, grain filling benefits from a couple of rounds at least so you can get some of the more stubborn ones nailed.

Cheers,

   I actually attempted something like this due to impatience but I tried to use a paper towel.  It just shredded. I am going to take a few more shots at it.  This time I really felt like I scraped off most with a credit card and thought the sanding would be easy.  I just jumped the gun on timing.

Thanx again.

[Prostheta]

There's no one right way, as you would expect. Some methods just allow you to sidestep the otherwise less pleasant tasks such as sanding the stuff back. For me, that's the dealbreaker hence why I prefer buffing the filler in. The less sanding in the final phases, the better in my book.

[StratsRdivine]

Have you considered using epoxy as a filler?  The advantage in your case is that it really strengthens up all the splits in your cutaway / neck area, while being the least shrinking filler you could possibly use, which manifests itself in glass flat finishes without pore / grain telegraphing through three months after wet sanding / buffing.  Lots of open time, and you can wipe it in "grouting" it into the pores, then wipe off like has been discussed.  

The strengthening ability of epoxy after it has soaked into punky wood is huge compared to solvent / waterborne based fillers,  Especially when you heat the wood prior to application.  

[Phaddie]

I have a few more test boards, I will try epoxy next. Thanx for the tip @StratsRdivine Now I need to read a bunch more tutorials.  

Could I grain fill with epoxy before I used water based dyes?

[curtisa]

In this instance I'd suggest that epoxy as a pore filler is probably not suitable for what you want to achieve. You're quite likely to seal the wood completely if you use epoxy, making it impossible for the dye to penetrate properly. Even after sanding/scraping all the excess off the surface, there's a risk that subsequent application of dye will end up looking blotchy due to the differing ways the timber will absorb the epoxy under the surface.

If you're trying to dye the timber I think your original method is the way to go. A filler that sits in the pores rather than being absorbed into the timber will be more compatible with dyes.

[Phaddie]

HELP!!!

So I have been slowly plugging away at this.  I planned do do a big post showing the steps to a finished body.  I may still do that but I encountered a problem today.

I was sanding off the last application of grain filler.  It was going as well as that dusty mess of a process can go.  My 5 year old daughter started playing with the hose and sprayed the guitar body.  It left all these little blotches.  I attempted to sand them off but they seem very deep and I am scraed that I will sand through the shellac protecting the dye I am also scared that the water pulled the timbermate out of the grain.

Suggestions?

[Prostheta]

Ouch, not entirely sure what to suggest to be fair. So this is water marking in the Timbermate or is it the shellac?

[ScottR]

I'd pick one blotch and put a tiny bit of Timbermate on it and gently sand it back level and see if the blotch is repaired.

From the pic, it looks like the dye hasn't changed color, but the black grain filler seems to be missing. It may be that one more application of grain filler will make it right.

SR

[Phaddie]

After I calmed down and took a closer look.  It seems like the water did in deed pull all the timbermate out but did not mark the shellac.  Looks like more grain filling. Yah!!!  Thanx guys.  This build is still progressing...