Prostheta Posted June 18, 2017 Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: I had no idea they did it like that! I'm unsure as to when they did it. I think it was either a small period window or similar. It's something that repair techs should be looking for when refretting any historic Fender with original fretwork, and that a luthier should note on the heel or in build notes if done out of specification. Wrenching frets out from the top when they were installed sideways would be a heartbreaking thing to discover the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 I'm more impressed that you'd consider it a DIY-able method for installing frets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 18 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: I do need to get the dividing wall quite a bit thinner - the two pots John recommends for the blend and master volume are only available in short thread. With care, though, it should be fine. You could always mount the short thread pots to an aluminium plate that attaches to the inside of the cavity somewhere, so that only the shafts prortrude through the wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 3 hours ago, curtisa said: You could always mount the short thread pots to an aluminium plate that attaches to the inside of the cavity somewhere, so that only the shafts prortrude through the wood. Yes - you're right. I'm also experimenting with using some modded machine head bushes that a member of one of the other forums floated out (with a M7 thread cut on the inside) that might make it easier to attach without having to thin the wall too much. The fall-back is, as you say. to set in a chassis-type plate in. I have double checked that there aren't any longer threaded pots around, but centre indent 10k small-bodied linear pots are clearly a niche item.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 In the meantime, subject to tidying up the cover rebate a touch, I've lengthened the chamber to give a bit more room between the bottom knob and the jack plug: The wider areas of the rebate (and I'll widen it also at the bottom) are to fit the retaining magnets into. Next task after finishing the rebate shape is coaxing my little bandsaw into cutting me a 3mm sliver off some sycamore-offcut for the cover... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I've made a bit more progress since I last posted. The 'final tasks checklist' is still long, but it's getting shorter I've widened the control chamber and also managed to get a mini stacked pot so I can squeeze in: Master Volume Piezo / Magnetic blend Piezo Tone Magnetic Tone It's going to be a fixed acoustic bone saddle, so I need to know exactly where the intonation needs to sit before I cut the saddle slot. Rather than guess, I rigged up the strings and placed an old acoustic 6 string saddle on a piece of veneer to determine the actual position - effectively setting up a floating bridge. It was a good opportunity to see if the clamping and tuning set up was going to work too! Before I did that, I needed to drill the holes in the headstock for the rear clamp. I used the ubiquitous cocktail sticks to double check the break angle. Does ANYONE use cocktail sticks for cocktails???? So with strings and a temporary saddle: I lastly cut the control cover 3mm-ish sliver - still got to sand it flush but it fits nicely 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I find them useful for poking people in the eye when they insist that I try a cocktail, so does that count? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 The bridge in that location is absolutely crazy, Andy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 That looks like a ghost bass....and it looks particularly nice on that chair. That simple saddle and the way the strings go though at both ends really add a lot to the look, Brilliant design elements. I think the spacing and location and type of the control knobs are going to make adjusting them a bit twitchy, at least for any largish adjustments. Bu they, sacrifices are made for fashion every day! SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Very nice!... Have you considered to add some ferrules to the strings holes? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 4 hours ago, Prostheta said: The bridge in that location is absolutely crazy, Andy! Of COURSE it is! This is Andyjr1515 you're talking to, after all The interesting thing is the playing experience. Haven't got the straplocks in yet, but I'm pretty sure it's going to hang just right on the strap. I'm expecting the weight of the lower bout and tuner block to bring the body down and swing to the right, making reaching the lower frets easier and putting the tuner block a couple of inches to the right of your hip but wrapped cosily round. Over the knee, much the same happens and for this style of playing, its certainly the most comfortable full-scale bass I've personally played.... Total luck, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 2 hours ago, psikoT said: Very nice!... Have you considered to add some ferrules to the strings holes? Thanks Not needed for the body - there will be no contact between the strings and the body - it goes straight from the tuner stringball grabs to the saddle (hence the angle of the tuner block and the exit holes). Headstock-wise - possibly, to avoid the holes widening over time. I've still got some work to do on that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Loads still to do, but another job off the list. Added smaller Luminlay dots in the fret overrun for the frets past where the body meets the neck: There is...sometimes....OK not very often...method in my madness... (and there's certainly madness in my methods ) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 4 hours ago, Prostheta said: I find them useful for poking people in the eye when they insist that I try a cocktail, so does that count? Certainly. Now you're talking the kind of language I like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Those side inlays are just stellar. They worked out really really nicely.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Why, thank you, kind sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Can't remember if I showed a shot of this - this bass is very difficult to photograph because all of the usual reference points are in unusual places (presumably same difficulty with photographing your wonderful Fugly Ritter-esque, @Mr Natural ?). From the shot above it does look like that tuner block is hanging in mid air. It's actually fully supported: I have yet to do something similar on the headstock clamp. No photos yet because it works - but looks very naff at the moment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I'm slowly but surely getting there with determining the saddle position. Now it has the proper gauge strings, adjusted truss rod and the action height about right, I reckon the saddle will need to be about 1mm further back than this: I'll reset it and try it out in the morning. In the meantime, Happy Midsummer Everyone 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 with the exceptionof maybe the headstock face- is there a flat spot on that monster you could get a good shot of without it looking dali-esque? you know I had a hard time at first getting my head around the idea and design on this one- and seeing it put together- kudos to your execution and vision on this one. well done bro. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 8 minutes ago, Mr Natural said: with the exceptionof maybe the headstock face- is there a flat spot on that monster you could get a good shot of without it looking dali-esque? you know I had a hard time at first getting my head around the idea and design on this one- and seeing it put together- kudos to your execution and vision on this one. well done bro. You are right. The added difficulty is that there is no way you can stand the little b****r up properly While it's strung up with the tuner block on, it actually sits level on the floor. I'm just about to take the strings off so, before I do, I'll see if I can take some 'plan and elevation' shots. I'll try that right now on the garden table.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 OK, @Mr Natural - here we go. Flat on its front and flat on its back from all sides: Someone from another forum described it as a Starwars spaceship - I sort of know where they're coming from Does this help envisage it? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 ...oh and before you wonder....the finished sanding hasn't happened yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 ...and there is going to be a fancy bit of curved carving surrounding the headstock bracket!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Someone from another forum described it as a Starwars spaceship Piewpiewpiew! Lasers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 For the clamp, I added some side pieces (it need to remain open either end) and an incline: ...and tidied up, but still waiting the overall final sanding, ending up like this: It's always going to look 'function over form' but hopefully softened a touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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