Prostheta Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 I'm unsure of the balance at this stage. The rod isn't in, the tuners aren't on, etc. I'm sure that it will need constant attention, but that's an SG for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 I was considering building a 27" SG until I remembered the balance issues. Have you got a build thread of the one you're building now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 16, 2017 Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 I do, yes. It isn't as complete as other build threads simply because the neck and body were legacy parts from other projects, specifically an EB-0 and a Les Paul. In that respect, there may be a very small advantage in balance since the neck is one fret closer to the body than "normal". http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48498-sg-project-the-tnt/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mike.Mara Posted April 18, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 On to fretwork! I've gotten them installed and flush with the fretboard. Installing frets was not as difficult as I had imagined it would be, There are at least two that will need special attention since I got a bit hammer-happy right at the end of the frets and managed to hammer them in to the fretboard a fraction of a millimeter. I still need to bevel them, so that's more jig making but even as it is (Neck un-carved, frets un-bevelled ect.) it's more comfortable feeling than some of the guitars I've played in music shops lol. And after about an hour or so of flushing them... (Could probably have gone faster but at this stage I really don't want to mess things up too bad and make more work for myself down the line... I broke out the CNC for one last job on this which was the truss rod cover. As you can see though, my earlier mistake of truss rod placement has come back to haunt me... I know it will be hidden under the nut but I'll always know it is there... Still maybe a little thick and may need some thicknessing... Won't know until I get it to the point of testing before finishing. But for now a truss rod cover is a truss rod cover... Still needs more sanding ect. but it works. I decided against inlaying this as I really don't think I could've freed the inlay without breaking it as the lettering is so small. (I actually had to make the text bigger to fit my 0.6MM bit, or 0.023622" to you imperial guys!) And finally some rough hardware pics of the body... The pickup rings are from an older guitar I'm re-finishing, The ones for this guitar will be shiny and new! The rest of the hardware will be what's on the guitar, and the blank space is for a 3 way pickup selector switch. I may be keeping that pickup in it (Bridge only, neck is a DiMarzio D-Activator bridge) But I'm not sure. It's a custom wound (By me) few thousand over-wound humbucker but still has a vintage-esque sound to it... Like it's not a metal humbucker at all but still has a decent amount of output. Not sure if it's beaten-up look will work yet but I can always wind another for this guitar if I feel I need to. Just roughly plonked on top... Closer up of the pickup... Pole-pieces are still low from the "ageing" process. And that's all for now. Mike. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Duh duh duhhhhh... Sorry it's been a while, the next step scared the hell out of me: Carving the neck! (So I've been putting it off.) All done with a spokeshave, half-round file and my favourite sander... The random orbital! God how I love that thing! Still dislike sanding though... But it makes it less of a hatred and more of an annoyance you just need to get out of the way. Spokeshave fun, I do love them, they make easy work of most things as long as they're sharp of course. Mine was a little dull since I was too impatient to sharpen it properly so I only got it to 800 but it did the job like a champion apart from a little chatter every now and then. I'm sooooo glad I invested in that sander... It went from something akin to being chewed on by a dog to beautifully smooth in a matter of 10 minutes or so. The carve isn't quite how I wanted since it's a little thick on the bass side but it sure is comfortable so I figured I'd let it be rather than tempt fate. Not too bad for a first go... I may get braver with the next one... Maybe... Tuners on... Thank god for CAD, the tuners just clear each other. (The headstock is a little on the small side so that'll need some adjusting on the next one... Funny how things look different on a screen and even as a template as opposed to the real thing huh!) Can't wait to get some finish on this thing! Just roughly placed... Still can't decide on the angle. And damn these things are heavy but I wanted locking tuners for this one because next to sanding, re-stringing is the worst... Side dots installed: And the nearly sanded to perfection body with the placement of the pots and selector switch! (I may have to skim a little more off of the inside of the cavity where the switch goes as it will JUST poke through enough to get the nut on. Next up will be more sanding... Great. Then using a clear grain filler on the neck and body as I really don't like the look of colour filling, I want to be able to see the pores without feeling them. And of course staining, scraping for the natural "binding" and finishing with sanding sealer and lacquer. I decided against oil because the products I looked at all had scary MSDS's. So I'm going with acrylic lacquer, Time will tell if that was a mistake. (The MSDS for the acrylic was basically... Wear a mask... Done.) Unfortunately the centre line is about 1-2MM off of centre but hey... That's what you get for thinking eye-balling it is better than measuring lol. And one more for the road... The back, Neck ferrules in place so now it's just drilling the through-string holes... Well... Through the body and installing the string ferrules. Not quite decided yet on whether or not to round off the back edges or chamfer them. I do find that if they're rounded, with the way I play, the guitar slowly starts to slide away from my body. I've also decided against recessing the control cavity plate and instead opting for one that will sit on top since they never get in my way and for some reason I really like the look... Don't ask why lol. And I forgot to mention... Still need to drill the bridge ground wire hole too... And the jack socket... Hmm... Why did I start finish sanding again? Still need to sand the back more but that will be done after I decide what to do with the edges. And that big dark line... That's not a glue line, if you look closely you can see the glue line just under that... Not sure what that is, it sure looks like a bad glue line but it isn't. I thought I'd really messed up on the centre line and had a bad joint until I realised it's just there. (When viewed from the neck pocket you can see it's slightly diagonal with the grain... Mineral streak?) Ohh well, maybe it'll fade when the finish is on... We can all dream right? Lol. Thanks for looking, Mike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Good work Mike! I think that now is a useful time to be self-critical about your neck profile and transitions. Not that they're bad, however I find that this is where the most can be learnt from neck builds. You can maybe make the neck to heel thickness transition a little sharper, as it currently blends in over several frets. You'll feel that, and it'll maybe make that area of the neck "less inviting" if you get what I mean. It's difficult to tell, because the photo I got that info from was before the sanding phase....you'll be able to get your hands on and see what you can feel of course. Meh, mineral streak. It is what it is. I like these little reminders that our material of choice was a living organic thing with its own individuality. It's just expessing that here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 It's looking mighty fine to me. And I actually enjoy sanding... SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Good work Mike! I think that now is a useful time to be self-critical about your neck profile and transitions. Not that they're bad, however I find that this is where the most can be learnt from neck builds. You can maybe make the neck to heel thickness transition a little sharper, as it currently blends in over several frets. You'll feel that, and it'll maybe make that area of the neck "less inviting" if you get what I mean. It's difficult to tell, because the photo I got that info from was before the sanding phase....you'll be able to get your hands on and see what you can feel of course. Meh, mineral streak. It is what it is. I like these little reminders that our material of choice was a living organic thing with its own individuality. It's just expessing that here. Thanks, And I agree it's nice to have the reminder that we're working with something that was once a living being and the fact that 2 pieces from the same tree can have wildly different characteristics... It's just unfortunate that this reminder looks like a mistake lol. I personally love burl, spalting and all that beautiful figuring, knots and all that makes each piece you work with one-of-a-kind. It can never be replicated so each piece has... For lack of a better term, it's own soul. The transition on the heel is actually extremely comfortable, at least for me, maybe it's just the way the photo shows it like you said, but the neck has a quite extreme asymmetrical shape which really helps me comfort-wise which the pictures don't show. Also that weird little hump you see there was sculpted out with the sander, Since I was getting a bit of chatter I decided to quit with the carving there and sculpt instead... Looking back at the picture it does seem a weird transition before the sculpting. I bolted the neck on earlier today and had a little string-less play (Must have looked weird to the neighbours) and all feels great to me, very similar to my Ibanez necks to which I'm far too used to. I do appreciate the constructive criticism/advise though, that is how we learn . This forum has already saved me from a few mistakes I probably would have made and people like you make it all possible! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 3 minutes ago, ScottR said: It's looking mighty fine to me. And I actually enjoy sanding... SR Thanks! And to each his own I guess lol, I suppose it's a bit like music, Just because I don't like a certain sound it doesn't mean it's not beautiful to someone else huh. But I suppose if I could carve like you it would seem like less of a chore and more a part of the art form! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 I just love to see and feel the wood come to life as I go through the grits up to a high polish. The figure wakes up and the wood glows. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 I agree completely there, when you start to see things you just couldn't before sanding it is nice, like tiny bits of curl or just a shimmer to certain parts of the grain that make you really appreciate that what we work with is so incredibly beautiful. It's just for me the dust and noise (And sometimes smell) is something I could happily live without if there was an alternative. But I guess that's all part of the artistry, nothing in, nothing out. It's all a labour of love, just some parts I love less than others lol. Mike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 After all the wood talk yesterday I found myself staring at the picture of the back of the body and thinking it would be a shame to have a bit of plastic on the back... So I went out today and made a jig to route out a control cavity plate recess and broke out my router planer and took a piece of the body top left overs and made a 5MM thick plate of the part with the worst of the many years ago water damage. It's a weird streaking and even if the whole top had been covered in it I still would have used it, Just maybe left it natural instead of dying it. The little bit missing is so I can get a pick or screwdriver under the plate to take it off when/if I need to. Sanding it to fit was a pain because my oscillating spindle sander bobbins have long since disappeared and I only have a large one and a medium one, not ideal but it worked. And now... There's going to be alot more sanding... But I really like the look and I'm glad ScottR and Prostheta took the time to talk a bit about woods and got me thinking about the artistry of what us woodworkers do that led to me being unhappy with just settling for plastic and instead embracing the natural materials we have the pleasure of working with. It would have been a shame to waste that piece of maple just because it didn't fit on the body and was too small for anything else. The roughness around the body is where I'm starting to work on the chamfer and just wanted to rough it out so I don't get ahead of myself and forget to do that before applying the clear grain filler... Which arrived today and so far with my tests appears to work extremely well, although it does shrink alot so that will most likely be a whole days worth of work on it's own to get it all filled. It has the texture of warm petroleum jelly so I can see myself making a mess while doing it. Thanks for looking, Mike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Glad that you're enjoying the process, Mike. About that cover....if you take a pen or other small cylinder, wrap some sandpaper around it and "file" a small cutout in that place at 45° to create a divot, that works to remove the cover without need of wrenching it off with metal things. I can't speak for @ScottR on this one, but I'm pretty much a mixed media person. I'm not one for all-wood builds, however I don't like resorting to plastic when it doesn't fit the design or feel. That said, it's not ruled out automatically in my book. If it works and sits well, it's fine. I feel like wooden pickguards are a weird overkill of sorts. Never liked them. Which grain filler do you have? You make it sound more like a lube than a non-Newtonian fluid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 I am enjoying it! And good tip about the non metal prying lol, I'll have to get that on there. I agree with you on mixed media, there's a place for everything... If I was doing a pick guard or tremolo cover ect. I would use plastic or metal unless I was doing a clone of Steve Vai's "Woody" just because... Damn that thing is gorgeous! But yeah, a place for everything and everything in it's place, sometimes things just aren't suitable substances for the job. The filler I'm going to use is called Aqua Coat Clear Grain Filler. It sure is a weird feeling substance! It could easily be mistaken for a lube, If you put some in a bottle and told me it was, from looks alone I would completely buy that it was! Appears to work a treat though and will allow me to see the pores the way I feel it's meant to be. Not that colour filling ect. can't be used to great effect, I'm just one of those guys that likes to see the wood the way it is... The pores are part of the character and as soon as you start adding opaque colours it changes how the wood itself looks. (Unless it's being done deliberately like black filler on ash and the like, Then I can be OK with it lol.) Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Funny you mention Woody, because I've got a hybrid SG/RG build lined up for a season one YouTube build. A Mahogany RG with SG appointments seems appropriate....like a polar opposite hybrid! That pickguard being made of plywood though....egh....the end grain is always nasty as hell in how it picks up finish compared to grain-aligned surfaces.... Interesting description of the product - ping me a link - because grain fillers in general are meant to sit solidly in pores. My understanding of this is that they possess high levels of resistance to shear, so once they're in there their bound strength is far higher than on the surface. Locked into the pores. A gel or something along those lines is not something I'm personally familiar with, however it makes me think of how egg whites can be used as grain fillers. Again, their proteins physically "tangle" and are worked into the pores, binding up in their confines. The grain filling we'll be doing in season one is with Brummer rub-in filler, which is a powder which smells of arse cat food when mixed up. The black is great, but there'll be chance to play with the white and "dark Mahogany" also. Black on Mahogany (or at least Sapele, Khaya, etc.) is nice. Stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 (edited) 11 hours ago, Prostheta said: Funny you mention Woody, because I've got a hybrid SG/RG build lined up for a season one YouTube build. Ohhh... Any idea when that will be going up? Yeah the plywood pickguard put me off a bit on that, They could easily have just made a ply out of wood and plastic or just stabilised a piece of wood. Or... And I know this kind of defeats the object of what they were doing but just laminate that veneer on the back of a piece of clear acrylic, there's plenty of clear glues that would have given the look they wanted with the protection and stability of acrylic. I was considering using the Brummer's Rub-In instead of this stuff just because here in the UK the price for the Aqua Coat is ridiculous, but it will do many projects as you don't need much each coat, so I guess it doesn't average out too bad... Here's the link: https://aquacoat.com/products/clear-grain-filler I'm not sure but I have a feeling it's a thickened version of an acrylic base/binder. From my limited tests yesterday it does appear to work well and stayed in the pores during sanding. I imagine that it relies on being soaked into the fibres to provide the bond but I wouldn't quote me on that. Mike. (Edit:) Just looked at the MSDS... It contains silica and a solvent named Diethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether. Funny though as silica is glass, They say no respiratory protection is usually needed... You normally wouldn't want to be breathing glass dust any other time. Edited May 14, 2017 by Mike.Mara Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 I've been working on everything in the background, and rough outlines of different projects, features and reviews are discussed in the Patreon-only section. Timewise, it's difficult to say because I've been balancing access to resources, money and time like crazy! Only this weekend, I lost access to the best machinery available such as a 1500mm-wide dual thickness sander, snipe-free thicknessers and jointers, huge bandsaws, digitally-controlled precision table saws, etc. Whilst they are a world away from representing what the average ProjectGuitar.com member owns or has access to, they did shift the focus away from the nitty-gritty of stock prep to the core subjects we're covering in season one, such as French polishing, grain filling, multiscale design, jigs, and all that. First videos go up in June at this rate, however I could really do with more than 24hrs in the day and all that. Silica is definitely not good to be powdering and aerosolising. Whilst silicosis is a long way down the road, grain filling and sanding that back without some form of dust management is the way to achieving that end, definitely. Any dust is bad, let's not kid ourselves! @StratsRdivine might have some better input on the solvent in that grain filler, but as far as I am aware it is pretty safe if you're not burning it. Same as most things. Remember to re-coat with your grain filler. It rarely does the trick in the first application, if ever. You can't overfill pores, but take care not to end up changing the wood shape through several sanding-back operations between fills. We've discussed this around the forums on various ways to grain fill, however my personal approach is to use a coarse woven material such as jute or whatever to buff the filler before it dries. That takes off most of the filler from the surface, meaning you're is far less danger of issues in the wood from oversanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 I think we could all use more hours in the day... I'll be waiting on those videos! I love to watch woodworking videos and build videos are always fun. Sorry for your loss of machinery I will be doing multiple coats, I'd like an almost glass smooth finish... I'm not expecting terrific results considering I've never done this kind of finishing before but I'd like it nice enough. Yeah I didn't think breathing in the silica sounded right either... That's why people wear masks while working with any kind of powdered glass, fibreglass ect. But that's probably why I passed my Health And Safety at Work exam top of my class, It's all common sense. If in doubt, always use more PPE than you think you need. Like you said, you don't want do be breathing in any kind of dust so why would silica be any different... Might as well go lick some lead paint while you're at it, It won't hurt at first but if you do it enough... I watched a video of a guy using this stuff and he basically buffed it in with a paper towel so I might give that a go just with a cotton rag instead. Will hopefully reduce the amount of sanding later. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 More work today... I must say, so far I love this grain filler! Aside from the smell lingering in your nose for hours and the glass dust when sanding, it works superbly and in just one thicker coat and a sanding then a thinner coat it seems to have filled all the pores. I'll check in a few days after sanding it down. It could almost be used as a satin finish on it's own if it was more resistant to scratching. This is the colour the guitar was going to be until my other half quite rightly (and you'll see why in a bit) said turquoise would be nicer. That was only one coat. But here's what colour it's going to be... 3 coats of dye here. (Weird stuff, it's like a paint that you smear on, wait and then wipe off. It has an acrylic binder in it so it seals the maple at the same time as being compatible with my finish lol, And the colours they make are awesome and inter-mixable.) This is just pure dye... None of that dye black (Or other colour) and sand back, dye a different colour stuff. I did think of doing purple, sand back then turquoise so I'd have dark blue/purpleish curl but that didn't work out too well in tests. It made the nice curl look like it might have well just been a veneer and when you're working with the more expensive billet form the last thing you want is for it to look like a veneer. I'm sure there are some guys here that make veneers look awesome but I'm not one of them sadly. Anyway... To the grain filled body... I've only filled the mahogany since the maple doesn't really need it and like I pointed out earlier the dye does a pretty good job of sealing. (And I have a can of sanding sealer.) But the main reason for that was when I mask the mahogany off while staining, even if some gets under the tape it'll be unable to penetrate into the pores making it easier to get off. You can see the grain figuring I was talking about now more clearly, it has a beautiful ribbon figuring that's just as active from different angles as the maple. Unfortunately when I was drilling for the ferrule holes I let my mind slip and 2 of the holes are slightly off. It'll still work but it's not as pretty. The weird white stuff is the grain filler, I scraped that out later. And that's all for the next few days since I have stuff to do. . But it is starting to get closer to finishing which is good as the next step after that is soldering, setup and playing! All things I enjoy. I may have to ring the manufacturer of the lacquer to get an idea of cure times though... Mike. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 Progress! I got the top dyed and sanding sealer on the body and neck. All Sanded nice and smooth and ready for clear coat. And on that note... Companies should really make sure their employees know what they're talking about... I rang the manufacturer of the finish and the guy on the phone basically laughed when I said "I know how long it takes to dry, but how long to cure?" and informed me that the 20mins dry time was it... That's as much as it will ever dry and that it air dries not cures. Now I'm no expert on finishes but lacquers cure right? And I assume that if it still smells almost as much as when it comes out the can then the finish is not cured, let alone dry. Especially when you can scratch said finish with your nail after an hour. (Accident on the control cavity cover... It's dry but not hard.) Anyway... I got rained off finishing today but I just managed to squeeze in getting the sealer on the neck before it started. Apparently my guitar has not gone down well with the wildlife as just as I was coming in... A bird pooped on me. . Needless to say I was not amused as until that point I'd been having a nice day. And here is a picture... The lighting makes it look a lot darker than it is, It's the same colour as the control cavity plate pictured a few posts above. It's a lot less maple-y now which is nice for me. Still undecided if I should do something to the headstock or not. I like it but it's not what I'm used to seeing as all of my guitars have painted headstocks. I think I may just stick to a full dye or just natural wood in future as the natural "binding" was a real pain. It's still not perfect but it's good enough. To quote Aaron Blaise "Finished not perfect." Sometimes you just have to accept that it can't be how you want. But hey... It is my first and all of the mistakes/successes are being stored away in my mind for the next attempt. And I already know what that's going to be! . Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 1 hour ago, Mike.Mara said: Now I'm no expert on finishes but lacquers cure right? And I assume that if it still smells almost as much as when it comes out the can then the finish is not cured, let alone dry. Especially when you can scratch said finish with your nail after an hour. (Accident on the control cavity cover... It's dry but not hard.) Nitrocellulose lacquers cure in 2 to 4 weeks for the most part, depending on the environment they are in. And yes, when you stop smelling solvent, you are mostly done curing. That last few percent may take months.....at least it will keep shrinking ever so slightly for several months. I'm not sure how long it takes acrylic lacquers to cure. They dry to the touch in 15-20 minutes. My first build got rattle can acrylic lacquer and it was still a bit soft after 6 months. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 Lacquers that dry though solvent evaporation only don't cure as such. They can be reactivated by their solvents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 48 minutes ago, ScottR said: Nitrocellulose lacquers cure in 2 to 4 weeks for the most part, depending on the environment they are in. And yes, when you stop smelling solvent, you are mostly done curing. That last few percent may take months.....at least it will keep shrinking ever so slightly for several months. I'm not sure how long it takes acrylic lacquers to cure. They dry to the touch in 15-20 minutes. My first build got rattle can acrylic lacquer and it was still a bit soft after 6 months. SR 6 months... Damn, I hope mine doesn't take that long lol. I've heard anything between a week to now 6 months so I guess I'll just have to wait and see. Any idea how long until it's good enough to buff and play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike.Mara Posted May 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 13 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Lacquers that dry though solvent evaporation only don't cure as such. They can be reactivated by their solvents. That makes sense. I have seen some waterborne lacquers that are resistent to water for months on end so hopefully this is one and my sweat won't soften it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 That's a good point. It is more accurate to say the solvent has completely evaporated instead of cured. The directions on the cans of nitro we buy often say you can finish 48 hours after the last coat. And you can....but I wouldn't. If I had zero open pores under the nitro I would after a week though. It's plenty hard enough, it just keeps shrinking. If there are no pores, the shrinkage will be invisible. Acrylic...its evaporation rate may vary from brand to brand for all I know. As I say my experience was with rattle cans purchased at an automotive supply shop. I leveled it and buffed it to a high polish after three weeks. And played it....so to speak--it was my first one ever. Not long after it was finished, I laid it on a t-shirt on the couch for a couple of days and when next I picked it up it had fabric marks pressed into the clear on the back. They buffed out fine but that didn't stop for maybe 6 months....as far as I know, I got a stand and didn't give it a chance after that. Yours may react much more sensibly. The smell for the solvents rule would still apply. Breaking the surface can help the curing (evaporation) process. I like to knock the tops off the orange peel after a week. Maybe go through the two coarsest grits I'm using the first weekend. The next I'll go through a couple more. the third week I feel pretty safe with final leveling and polishing. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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