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First full build from scratch


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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, spottydog said:

Binding done and third coat of oil applied. This time I have used teak oil. It will have three coats leave for 24 hours then apply wax with oooo steel wool to give a lustre to show off wood grain. 

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wow, that creme binding against that pine? looks really nice.  this is turning out great.  send it over the top and bind the f holes!  just a thought.  or paint them matching creme... that'd look awesome.  nice work.

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  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, spottydog said:

I'm sure all this spaghetti fits in the f hole somehow 

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build is looking really good.  the cream/pine is a lovely combo - you might want to find some cream pu rings as that would just tie in nicely.

I don't want to come off as a negative nelly here... but you might have some noise problems with that wiring... it doesn't look like green orange and red are shielded... and they really should have a braided shield IME.  I say this because I have learned it the hard way.  semi-hollows - since they aren't shielded at all on the inside... are prone to noise issues esp if you have wires crossing each other.  The last thing in the world you want to do is have to rewire once you do the work to get your electronics in there.  IME every single wire you use should be shielded ... even wires you wouldn't normally shield like those going to the 3 way switch.  The ground can be connected only on one side... as that will form a better shielding.  just a thought.

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Many thanks for advice. Yes it is pine. Put harness in before saw advice so see how it goes and change if have problems. The first time putting wires in is hard but if I can do it anybody can. After stripping wire I thinned it to half so that it went tight around the pot spindle. Hope this helps. 

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On ‎4‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 8:13 PM, spottydog said:

Many thanks for advice. Yes it is pine. Put harness in before saw advice so see how it goes and change if have problems. The first time putting wires in is hard but if I can do it anybody can. After stripping wire I thinned it to half so that it went tight around the pot spindle. Hope this helps. 

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Well done!  In spite of all the building and modding I've done over the years, I've only done this ^ once simply because I vowed I was NEVER going to do it again after that traumatic first time ;)

Excellent job :)

 

 

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Put the wire down the middle of the jack and tie a washer to the end to keep the wire in place then simply pull the plug into the hole. Put the washer and nut over the wire and when they are tight on the plug just let the wire loose and pull it through the f hole. Use the wire to keep the jack in place until the washer and nut are tight. Hope this helps. 

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58 minutes ago, spottydog said:

Put the wire down the middle of the jack and tie a washer to the end to keep the wire in place then simply pull the plug into the hole. Put the washer and nut over the wire and when they are tight on the plug just let the wire loose and pull it through the f hole. Use the wire to keep the jack in place until the washer and nut are tight. Hope this helps. 

Cunning!

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8 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

How the hell did you get the jack in the hole? 

the one time I did this... I was swearing out loud and a lot!  I just used fishing line... and it worked... but my dang jack was getting all kinds of hung up in there on i dunno what... really could have used one of those dental mirrors at that point.  A bit like picking birds#it out of coo coo clocks with boxing gloves on.

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I've heard about using silicone hose for the pots: When it fits tight over the shaft, the outer diameter matches the threaded part and guides the pot right up and the nut can be slid over the hose. That wouldn't work for jacks, though. Maybe a hose fitting inside the jack would allow better handling in guiding the jack through the hole? And possibly the hose being slid over the hook end of the tip connector to prevent catching?

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39 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I've heard about using silicone hose for the pots: When it fits tight over the shaft, the outer diameter matches the threaded part and guides the pot right up and the nut can be slid over the hose. That wouldn't work for jacks, though. Maybe a hose fitting inside the jack would allow better handling in guiding the jack through the hole? And possibly the hose being slid over the hook end of the tip connector to prevent catching?

Yes - that's what I used in the end and finally achieved it.  Useful, because I could use the same tubing for the intraveneous tranquillizer drip I needed over the following days and weeks.

As @mistermikev says, it's the hidden d-day type anti tank defences that suddenly appear in what you were sure was a completely empty body chamber...

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Ye the wiring can get in the way a little bit. I find rather than having a nervous breakdown fitting the pots through the holes if they are not going in walk away and leave it for a couple of hours or even till the next day then come back to it fresh. Also a long screwdriver through the f holes is good to position the jack and pots straight under the hole before pulling them through 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have now finished building my guitar. It now needs setting up. Despite checking double and triple checking my measurements I have ended with the string height far too high. It is 8/32" at the 12th fret on the bass side. Would tightening the truss rod lower the strings enough to get the correct height. 

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49 minutes ago, spottydog said:

I have now finished building my guitar. It now needs setting up. Despite checking double and triple checking my measurements I have ended with the string height far too high. It is 8/32" at the 12th fret on the bass side. Would tightening the truss rod lower the strings enough to get the correct height. 

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it may if it's out of whack... but an 1/8" is unlikely.  hold down the first fret, and the fret where the neck meets the body... check halfway between... should have just enough space to fit a fender thin pick- almost stratight.  if too much then tighten, if too little then loosen but IMO never more than a quarter turn in 8hrs.  Once that is perfect all you can do is lower the bridge and nut afa you can before you get buzz.  if it doesn't go down far enough at the bridge you could file off some of the bridge where it meets the round nut... or make deeper grooves in your saddles.  At that point, on a set neck, that's all you can do other than steaming off the neck and redoing the joint/angle or perhaps resetting your studs.

EDIT: or maybe installing jumbo frets you could make up about 1/32"

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Guitar is looking great @spottydog it has a real vintage vibe about it.  If there is any relief in the neck, you could tighten the rod which would reduce the action in the middle of the board but I doubt it would be enough.

What is the situation with the bridge, is it set as low as it will go? If so I think your only option will be to recess it by 3mm to get the lower action. I have seen posts where folk have filed down the underside of the bridge to get it to sit a bit lower I don't think you could file off 3mm

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