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Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut


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  • 4 weeks later...

I've earned enough brownie points with the good Lady Norris recently to be allowed to make some sawdust, and lots of it. It was control cavity routing day

First I transferred my templates to 18mm mdf. Then I drilled out and routed the main cavity 

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Some minor "ledge dive" but otherwise reasonably neat. I did all the routing with my small Makita. 

I'll have to buy a stubby template bit to do the ledge rebate 

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This is one router job that I hate, it's always a pain getting a perfect 2mm deep recess for a plastic control cover to sit in nicely when the smallest bit I've got is 10mm + the bearing. I normally end up making the template for the recess out of something like 15mm MDF so I can route it safely. But I find it's easier to make control covers out of wood and add a bit of depth to them, looks nicer too but obviously additional work on finishing.

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12 hours ago, ScottR said:

A rabbit bit would work nicely for that cavity as well.

SR

Yes - for this type, with the flat back and without internal fixing/magnet protrusions, that's what I would use too:

 

 

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Depth is clearly very accurate to whatever you want and then choose an appropriate sized bearing to determine the width of rebate you want.

Clearly, if it's a carved back, or if the inner shape is different to the outer shape, then you can't use this - then a template and trimmer bit is probably the best way to go.

 

 

 

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For my own part, I prefer using a (thick plywood) template based on the outer cavity cover size, then starting the inner cavity using a guide bushing. This does require the use of a relatively shallow router bit for the initial cut of course. My small milling cutter has seen better days, and I'm struggling to replace it in a metric shank.

This also reminds me that I need to invest in a full bearing set from Rall Guitars, or whoever can do them at a better price 😉

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1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

For my own part, I prefer using a (thick plywood) template based on the outer cavity cover size, then starting the inner cavity using a guide bushing. This does require the use of a relatively shallow router bit for the initial cut of course. My small milling cutter has seen better days, and I'm struggling to replace it in a metric shank.

This also reminds me that I need to invest in a full bearing set from Rall Guitars, or whoever can do them at a better price 😉

Have you tried shank adaptors? I got an 8-piece set relatively cheap from ebay after having the same trouble and can now convert pretty much any metric/imperial collet size. Obviously up to 1/2", not the other way round

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On 8/6/2019 at 2:59 PM, Prostheta said:

For my own part, I prefer using a (thick plywood) template based on the outer cavity cover size, then starting the inner cavity using a guide bushing.

I did that on the Nozcaster, but for some unknown reason am doing it "flush cut" this time. The issue is probably working out the guide bush offset. It just seemed a little easier making the template actual size 

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The problem with guide bushes is that you have to be able to bake in the offset, which often isn't the easiest trick when making an odd shape. I reduced the collar depth on my bushes so they work with 5mm acrylic templates, and when you've factored laser cutting into the equation it's a different game altogether.

I do like using guide bushes as a method of reducing down the final cut for flush routing, especially for things where it isn't practical to bandsaw up to the line. A 1/2" external diameter with an 8mm bit is a charm....leaves under 2,5mm still to cut, which is normally way below the threshold where tool pressure exceeds splitting force versus cutting force, and offers far more options if you need to climb cut.

Apologies for the off topicness....

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  • 1 month later...

Oh - I'm only on page 2 of the forum. Quiet summer? :)

Hooray - I'm back at class! I put the second template I made to immediate use

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and I'm quite pleased with my efforts to align the wood grain. I also drilled the jack entry hole with a 22mm forstener bit - you can just see where it meets the bottom corner of the chamber in the top picture. 

Next week I'll drill for the pickup wires and then start a fair bit of sanding.

It's nice to be making sawdust again 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A fair bit of sanding done, but plenty more to do. I think I'm going to have to stick with quite fine grits as the wood has a tendency to "fur up" a bit with heavier grits. The list of bits to do is certainly getting shorter and we can't be too far from the home straight 

Anyway, a bit of magnetism...

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The magnets are 3mm diameter and so was my drill bit. So after drilling to depth on the pillar drill, I sat and spun the bit by hand in each of the holes to create a little clearance, before setting them in with epoxy.

A handy tip was to keep the magnets in a stack, sticking a bit of masking tape on one end, then feeding them in straight off the stack into the body holes. Then, the important bit, sticking the tape on the other end of the stack before feeding them into the cover. Then they should all be North-South polarity. The flat end of a pencil was quite handy to press them in flush

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8 hours ago, Norris said:

a bit of magnetism...

How mesmerizing!

Thanks for showing your drilling template. Having not figured out such a simple tool has kept me from drilling my magnet cavities!

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19 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

How mesmerizing!

Thanks for showing your drilling template. Having not figured out such a simple tool has kept me from drilling my magnet cavities!

It's just a piece of paper that I trimmed to the size of the cover. I measured and marked out where I wanted the holes, gently put the paper into the hole, then marked with the bradawl. Popped the paper onto the cover and marked again through the holes I just made, and they should align when drilled on the marks :)

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9 minutes ago, Norris said:

It's just a piece of paper that I trimmed to the size of the cover.

Indeed! Seeing it there is so obvious that it should pop into one's mind without any effort. But not in my case!

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  • 3 weeks later...

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