mistermikev Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 looks great. now just legally change your name so you can keep it(it'd be worth it)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 26 minutes ago, mistermikev said: looks great. now just legally change your name so you can keep it(it'd be worth it)! My name is going on the headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 10 minutes ago, Norris said: My name is going on the headstock right on. look fwd to how that turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 On 1/28/2019 at 8:36 AM, Mr Natural said: I came across 3 jigs I had saved- and I have no freaking idea what the hell they are for. i sorta think I know what one of them is for- but- honestly-not sure and cant even remember what instrument I used it on. So there you go. I've made a jig / template and then found a good place to store it where I'll find it next time - only to find another one I had built previously. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Tonight was putting the radius on the board. No fancy concave sanding block here: just a flat block, a straight edge and a 12" fret press block to use as a radius gauge. First I sanded at 80 grit and placed the gauge along the neck to look for light shining through the gap, and the same with the straight edge along the length of the fretboard in various spots across the width. Eventually when the gap got too small, I placed a small pile of dust on the fretboard then drew the gauge along the board a few times, leaving dust in the low spots. Once it didn't leave more than a trace of very fine dust I switched to 120 grit and gentle pressure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted February 4, 2019 Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Good job on the inlay, looks flawless 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Yes, that cleaned up nicely. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 Not much progress to report apart from... I hate cutting fret slots in ebony by hand In 2 hours: 4 slots tackled, 2 cut to depth, chips created on 3 of them - requiring CA/dust fix At least I started on the more awkward bridge end of the board - it always seems like you're going nowhere fast when starting from the nut end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 I've had lots of chip outs when cutting slots on my first couple of guitars when I freehanded them. I've learnt to prevent this buy sawing from the edge in to the middle of the fretboard on the initial cuts, even if you're going against the cut of the saw, just to get that initial mark in then just joint the two edges by reducing the cut angle. What also really helps is making a vertical notch just down the edge of the board at the slot with a marking knife, if gives the saw something to catch onto vertically and helps prevent the saw wondering or snagging and chipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 I never freehand as the blade will invariably waller out a slot that is wider at the top and quite likely off-centre, off-straight. What does help is reducing the amount of effort required to saw by using sharp tools and running the blade through a stearine candle (tealight) before starting a new slot. I usually slot prior to tapering, so blowing out at the ends of the cut isn't an issue. Sorry for not being online much recently....just moved upstairs to the design department where I work, so I'm tit deep in taking on Rhino3D and fixing all the problems architects cause. They want everything to look a certain way, but have zero inkling on how anything works. That apparently, is my job. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 6 hours ago, Prostheta said: Sorry for not being online much recently....just moved upstairs to the design department where I work, so I'm tit deep in taking on Rhino3D and fixing all the problems architects cause. They want everything to look a certain way, but have zero inkling on how anything works. That apparently, is my job. Oh man I get you. I'm probably one of the "techiest" of the designers here. One foot in each camp - form and function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 Norris - this build is SOOOOOOO clean, Very inspiring, What P90 pickups are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 37 minutes ago, komodo said: Norris - this build is SOOOOOOO clean, Very inspiring, What P90 pickups are you using? Iron Gear platinum 90s, as supplied by the future owner (the guitarist in my band). He has them in his Vintage (brand) thinline telecaster and they sound sweet enough Glad you find it inspiring. It's not easy chipping away doing 2 hours per week and trying to keep momentum. It's nice to look back every now and again though to see how far you've come though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 11 hours ago, Norris said: Not much progress to report apart from... I hate cutting fret slots in ebony by hand In 2 hours: 4 slots tackled, 2 cut to depth, chips created on 3 of them - requiring CA/dust fix At least I started on the more awkward bridge end of the board - it always seems like you're going nowhere fast when starting from the nut end Do you use a radius block as your blade guide? I mark the fret line, then clamp a radius sanding block right up to the line and use that as my poistion and right angle guide, holding the blade against the block and pulling only until the cut is established. Once established, I use the block just to keep me vertical. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 On 2/5/2019 at 9:07 AM, Norris said: Tonight was putting the radius on the board. No fancy concave sanding block here: just a flat block, a straight edge and a 12" fret press block to use as a radius gauge. I think this ^^ deserves special mention (emphasis mine). You're a brave man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 3 hours ago, curtisa said: I think this ^^ deserves special mention (emphasis mine). You're a brave man. It's actually not that difficult. Having done a compound radius on my first guitar the technique is pretty much the same except you can use the radius gauge at any point on the neck. The compound radius was 7.5" at the first fret and 12" at the 12th, with a straight edge between them following the neck taper. Don't forget I'm going to classes to do this, and have someone who knows what they are doing at my beck and call any time I need them. I'm really just following instructions to the best of my ability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Do you use a radius block as your blade guide? I mark the fret line, then clamp a radius sanding block right up to the line and use that as my poistion and right angle guide, holding the blade against the block and pulling only until the cut is established. Once established, I use the block just to keep me vertical. Good tip. I'm actually thinking it might be time to invest in a fret slotting jig though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 I don't see anything wrong with that technique for putting in the radius, certainly works if you don't have a specific radius block. You just have to check the radius often. Starting off with a hand plane certainly speeds up the process though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 6 hours ago, Norris said: Good tip. I'm actually thinking it might be time to invest in a fret slotting jig though Yes...I think it might be time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 Back to cutting the fret slots to depth last night. In 2 hours I achieved a grand total of... 4! And a rather sore hand to boot. My instructor said he'd bring his own decent saw next week for me to use #rolleyes Is it just me that finds fret slotting the most tedious task of guitar building? I'm determined I'm not going to do anything else until they are done. Perseverance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Norris said: Back to cutting the fret slots to depth last night. In 2 hours I achieved a grand total of... 4! And a rather sore hand to boot. My instructor said he'd bring his own decent saw next week for me to use #rolleyes Is it just me that finds fret slotting the most tedious task of guitar building? I'm determined I'm not going to do anything else until they are done. Perseverance! I think maybe it's time to invest in a G&W mitre block but, at the very least, a decent and sharp fret saw, Norris. Nowadays, it takes me maximum 45 minutes to slot a complete single scale (ie non fanned) fretboard- up to and including snakewood. Even a non-standard scale, once marked out with positioning dots take me less than an hour. And thinking about it, the fan fret one, just using the end of a clamped radius block to keep the blade square and in position, took less than 2 hours for the complete board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 24 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: I think maybe it's time to invest in a G&W mitre block but, at the very least, a decent and sharp fret saw, Norris. Definitely! Apparently I can't react any more today though, so #thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/ These guys make StewMac's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/ These guys make StewMac's. Thanks. I'm quite intrigued by their musical saws https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/MUSICAL-SAWS.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 totally want to play musical saws with you guys! btw, norris... was that you in the video 'something' cheese band? was watching the videos from your tele thread... some nice guitar playin' there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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