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Norris

Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

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1 hour ago, Splintazert said:

Very nice and very brave with the font, that 'S' looks like a nightmare to do.

So what's the story behind the 'O' design then? 

The S was actually a large cut out. A big circle with a hook on top. I'd never have been able to leave any wood behind, even with such a small bit.

There's no real story behind the O. I just kind of copied an RAF roundel in red,  white and blue because it's kinda British :). The red is "coral"

The chap who made it for me is an artist - I've mentioned him before, but I'll do it again... Small Wonder Music. He said it was one of the more challenging jobs he's had 

I never do things by half, do I?! :D

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Having just sent this photo to the future owner I realised I tend to take shots of little details rather than the whole guitar. So I thought I'd share the current state...

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That is a really fun logo, I would be drawn to a guitar with that headstock.

 

in my mental preparations, I was planning on cutting the profile out of my ebony veneer before gluing it down to the headstock, as apposed to routing it out as you have.  Do you see any disadvantage to my approach?

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16 minutes ago, FINEFUZZ said:

in my mental preparations, I was planning on cutting the profile out of my ebony veneer before gluing it down to the headstock, as apposed to routing it out as you have.  Do you see any disadvantage to my approach?

Interesting idea. I did something vaguely similar when I bound the veneered headstock on my Nozcaster build. Except of course I took the material away from the outside. The only issues I can see is cleaning up the glue squeeze-out, or if the veneer changes shape slightly as it's applied

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love your logo.. so playful! 

I've got to get a better router base (I'm going to blame my shoddy work on that!)... the dremel router base blows and you can't see anything so I use the dremel tile cutter base -which also blows... and you can't see anything!  I'd like a stew mac base but don't like it being metal... how do you like it afa being able to see?  been thinking about making a plexi base modeled after the stew mac base, but using the tile cutter height adjust, and putting some leds in it.  Something to think about anyway.

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1 hour ago, FINEFUZZ said:

That is a really fun logo, I would be drawn to a guitar with that headstock.

 

in my mental preparations, I was planning on cutting the profile out of my ebony veneer before gluing it down to the headstock, as apposed to routing it out as you have.  Do you see any disadvantage to my approach?

I've used both approaches and have decided that it's much easier to glue a veneer blank onto a headstock blank and shape the two layers at the same time. I Agree with Norris, it's a PITA sometimes to sand out the glue squeeze out properly without altering the final shape; especially important if you're staining the headstock prior to finishing as the tiniest remnants of glue will stop stain taking to the wood.

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@mistermikev you need something to rest on or you wouldn't have a base :D The SM isn't too bad for visibility but there was a lot of look/wobble/assess/nibble operations going on. It could use a plunge function, and I have to lock down both legs to stop it wobbling loose. Tilting the base was fine though for the small depth I was routing 

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17 minutes ago, Norris said:

@mistermikev you need something to rest on or you wouldn't have a base :D The SM isn't too bad for visibility but there was a lot of look/wobble/assess/nibble operations going on. It could use a plunge function, and I have to lock down both legs to stop it wobbling loose. Tilting the base was fine though for the small depth I was routing 

sounds like for the price you wouldn't give it extremely high marks.  wobble... that's one area the tile cutter base worked well on... such a small surface area and once it's locked down it doesn't move... but even with a head lamp on I could hardly see the area I was cutting.  If they made one from clear plastic it would actually be pretty sweet!  anywho, your logo looks really good, so nice work!

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3 hours ago, mistermikev said:

wobble

I meant wobbling the inlay to find out where material needed removing. The SM router base is actually pretty stable when everything is tightened down :)

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Yes. I find the SM base to be much better than the dremel base. It is useful to attach a small tube for compressed air to the port for that. It does a fine job of blowing the wood chips out of the way so you can see what you've just done. Gives you a head start on planning how to fix it.:D

SR

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59 minutes ago, Norris said:

I meant wobbling the inlay to find out where material needed removing. The SM router base is actually pretty stable when everything is tightened down :)

 

46 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Yes. I find the SM base to be much better than the dremel base. It is useful to attach a small tube for compressed air to the port for that. It does a fine job of blowing the wood chips out of the way so you can see what you've just done. Gives you a head start on planning how to fix it.:D

SR

My bad.  so the step mac is good then.  yeah, the dremel plunge base is horrible.  hate it.  the tile base is ok... stable... just hard to see. 

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6 hours ago, Norris said:

Inspired by @ScottR I went through the grits :)

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(Slight knot flaw either side of the 15th btw)

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It will be left raw with just a wipe of lemon oil

Dude.........that is so sexy.

 

Damn.

 

SR

 

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7 hours ago, ScottR said:

Dude.........that is so sexy.

 

Damn.

 

SR

 

It's the way it's provocatively reclining in the chair, isn't it? :D

I might just press a few frets into it next week 

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Back at class, I hand-reamed the tuner holes to fit the odd-sized ferrules (8.75mm or thereabouts?!)

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I then had time to fit half a dozen frets. Hammered in, a dab of CA at either end, then clamped in the class' Stewmac fret press

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There's a few weeks' break from classes now. I might get a few minutes of fettling at home, but I've really got to crack on with the engine strip & rebuild to keep Mrs Norris happy :)

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6 hours ago, Lwguitar said:

Have you ever tried hammering in frets? That press looks like a slick way to press in the frets. How do you like it?

I hammered in the frets and just used the press as a clamp while the CA dried. I'm not keen on hammering - I've dinged the board again. Out with the steam iron soon 

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20 hours ago, Norris said:

I hammered in the frets and just used the press as a clamp while the CA dried. I'm not keen on hammering - I've dinged the board again. Out with the steam iron soon 

I always seem to find a way to ding the board. Not always with the hammer....but always.:angry:

SR

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Personally I like to get hammered, THEN do my frets... but that's me. 

did my frets last night and used a clamp for the most part but then got to the last few frets and had to hammer em... it has occurred to me that evo frets are probably easier to hammer than reg.  little chance of bending them out of shape. 

I did NOT ding my fretboard... but I'm going to credit norris for that as I read his last post and consciously avoided it! (thanks norris)

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