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I'm a woodworker for a living, so I only like the smell of good chips coming off a fresh edge tool, machine or hand! Blunt ones kick up dust and yeah....that's no fun.

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Finally got some time for fun, so next on the agenda is Mt. Fuji.  As you may recall, I got two necks from that blank, so decided to try out my new templates on the second Padauk neck first.  That guitar will probably have the same body shape with a different wood, and won't be a multiscale. 
 
Man, this template took some doing!  It's not perfect, but the results weren't awful.  I made a couple blocks from the Limba body cutoffs.  Using clamps and "low adhesive" double-sided tape, made the "snowcap" line on two blocks.  The matching template was taped/clamped to the Padauk neck.  Titebond and "clamped" with elastic packing film.  A few hours later, I cut off the backside, flattened, then taped/clamped the "whole" headstock template on and used the trimmer to get the final shape.  An hour or so with various grits on a sanding block, then some sanding pads, and my second Mt. Fuji headstock!  The Limba grain is not quite straight (rectified on second block), but happy puppy.  Multiscale neck is next! :):thumb:
 
(as you can tell, it's time for a new follower bit!)
:cheers2:
 
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On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 10:25 PM, ScottR said:

And the repair is basically invisible.

SR

Scott, it just finally dawned on me what you meant! (must be concussion from jumping off the ladder! ;))

This neck is (was) the "alternative" neck, and is now the official multiscale neck.  After cutting through the other neck, it was relegated to secondary.   You can see the repair still, depending on the light ...  :(  That neck will go on my next build as a "singlescale" (24.75").

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Apologies if I simply didn't read something already mentioned, but how on earth did you get the templates matching so well? Patience with a spindle sander, or an offset inlay bushing set?

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46 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Apologies if I simply didn't read something already mentioned, but how on earth did you get the templates matching so well? Patience with a spindle sander, or an offset inlay bushing set?

Haha! I didn't really say, but all the tools I used are in that pile of sawdust in the pictures.  I first made the Padauk side freehand with a 10mm bit in the trimmer router. Cleaned up with Stickit on a dowel. Then penciled that shape onto another piece of MDF and cut that with the trimmer until just before the line disappeared. Then  ... they didn't match at all!  So, using a long 10mm round file, a card scraper, and the Stickit-wrapped dowel I went back and forth between the two for about an hour until they looked reasonably close.  Super glued both sides for a bit of longevity, and they got out of whack again, so spent another hour to get them matched AND super glued. 10mm is the smallest top-bearing 25mm long trimmer bit, so the line is based on three  5mm radius circles. 

(Not sure if I should admit it, but I've no clue what an offset inlay bushing set is!)

If I'm going to make more of these, I will definitely hire someone to make me a nice acrylic set with guide pins! 

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1 hour ago, ScottR said:

Ah....in that case it would be very strange for it not to be invisible....:blink:

SR

You can see th repair in the latest test snowcap.  When I recut the headstock shelf to 90 degrees and clean up the lines, I hope the repair is less noticeable. :)

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http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesideinlaykit.html

These allow you to copy a pattern into another piece of template stock, which then cuts the corresponding shape. It's pretty useful for anything but small radii/corners, and with a bit of thinking you can copy a cavity cover (or recess) into it's corresponding recess (or cover) by adding in a slightly different offset.

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Finally pressed in those fret markers, and rough-radiused the fretboard.  I will spend some more time to confirm it's straight and smooth, and probably take it down another 0.3mm (or thereabouts).  Waiting on frets and brass nut.
 
Pics make a multiscale look "off." :unsure:  As far as I can tell, everything measures correct.
 
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Started on the brass nut ... 6mm down to 4.5mm. Sigh.  Next, getting the height into the general territory and shape.
 
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Is there any rule about through-string holes being 90 degrees?  I was playing around with alternatives ...
 
:cheers2:
 
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Looking good! My favourite Aria Pro II basses had brass nuts. Remember to shellac or lacquer it to stop it from oxidising.

Angled works nicely if you can pull them off well!

finishing2.jpg

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Grandson born a week early, had to get Mrs.CJ off to Hawaii in a rush, then handle a bunch of home stuff in the aftermath.  Third grandkid, so not quite a frenzy, but crazy enough to put guitars to the background. (btw, mom, kid, and grandma [and grampa] all good and happy :) )
 
Had a bit of time today to bring a few things upstairs (don't tell Mrs.CJ) and play.  Fretboard is a nice 12" radius, Nut is ready to slot, and now I get to use my StewMac Fret DeTanger tool for the first time. 
 
(Gotta admit, it works great, but the handle is horrendous! Really, S-M guys, you gotta do something about this!  It's not a cheap tool, and I'm sure you sell a good number of them ... at least a rubber grip with a little something to keep your hand from sliding up.)
 
I had no idea how to measure the tang width, but this seems to work.  Only 20 more ! :yesway:
 
:cheers2:
 
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On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 11:19 PM, Prostheta said:

Looking good! My favourite Aria Pro II basses had brass nuts. Remember to shellac or lacquer it to stop it from oxidising.

Angled works nicely if you can pull them off well!

finishing2.jpg

Now that is a pretty guitar!!

(where do you hide the strap pins?)

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I am impressed with the Stew-Mac Fret Tang tool! It cuts VERY nicely, but ...

OUCH!!! I have some issues with my hands (getting old), and using this tool was tortuous. Surely they could do something about those slippery, hard, excruciatingly difficult to use handles, huh?!

Well, those straight, hard handles DID make it easy to attach a solution. Mind you, this is still a work in progress ... I will slim the grips down a bit more, and finish them with oil or something. But I really wanted to finish the fretboard for my Limba6, so invested a couple hours (well-spent time!) to make these. Oh, and they stand up! ;)

:cheers2:

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... Which made it a breeze to finish prepping the rest of the frets!

:thumb:

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Thanks @Mr Natural!
 
Got a bit more done today ... this is where I finally feel like something's getting done!
 
Taped up the fretboard, and used a drill press caul and Titebond. After pressing in each fret, I nipped the ends off and gave a few taps with a wood mallet on top of the marble slab.  The caul did a fine job, but it seems the mallet got everything seated a bit better ... psychological?  Today got as far as beveling the fret edges, and will level, crown and polish next. 
 
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That tape is burning my eyes!! :mellow:

Lovely how that brass nut sits in there. I should maybe have suggested Evo gold wire, however it's a bit more difficult to work than NS.

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