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Anomatopoeia! I love them. "Gluck" is a favourite in English, which is the blopping (not a word) noise of liquid coming out of a container that is trapping air. The best ones that spring to mind in Finnish are "kröhöm" (same as "ahem") and "käkättää" which is an evil cackle.

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6 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Anomatopoeia! I love them. "Gluck" is a favourite in English, which is the blopping (not a word) noise of liquid coming out of a container that is trapping air. The best ones that spring to mind in Finnish are "kröhöm" (same as "ahem") and "käkättää" which is an evil cackle.

Language is fun!   "kröhöm" makes me want to clear my throat!! :D

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I'm gonna call this carve done.  Time to crack open the Odie's Oil I brought back from the States.
 
This stuff is not what I expected ... more like Manuka Honey or molasses in winter.  But it really spreads, as advertised.  the first two pics are before, then some after two coats, indoor and outdoor.
 
(I could look at the grain and color of this Padauk all day ... and the Wenge is also very "woody")
 
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15 hours ago, RestorationAD said:

I really love padauk... too bad I have become allergic to the dust.

That is tragic!! I've really come to love working with Padauk, and find the smell pleasant.  But having very sensitive skin (a recent , sudden development) to some other things, I know what it's like to be denied.

 

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A possible solution ...
 
Made my head hurt to figure the angle, then make a jig, then actually drill.  Will Dremel a bit for final fit ... I made it a bit tight on purpose.  Now someone can assess the tonal qualities of this  ...  please! :):D
 
:cheers2:
 
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Careful when inserting ferrules, because that's liable to crack. Once it's in the body it should be fine of course.

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Made a template, stuck it on with double-sided tape (a little further back than in the picture), routed to depth and glued in the little ferrule holder.  Actually, there was a reason to make the Paduak ferrule holder besides being ornery ... the Limba is (as advertised and warned) pretty soft, so thought it a better receptacle.  The 45 degree thing WAS just being ornery, lol.  ;);)
 
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Thumbs up all round, definitely. Do the strings pass through the bridge correctly at that angle, without hanging up or rubbing?

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10 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Thumbs up all round, definitely. Do the strings pass through the bridge correctly at that angle, without hanging up or rubbing?

I sincerely hope so!!! :)

The holes in the bridge are 3mm, and the angled holes I drilled with a 3.5mm bit are oval, so should have a bit of wiggle room ... maybe 1mm fore and aft. 

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7 hours ago, Prostheta said:

I can't stop looking at this....

So which tuners are going into here?

Hipshot Grip Locks ...

Got two pair, hoping to mix and match some parts to match the TV Jones Chrome+Black ... asking Hipshot if the locking wheel can be removed.  (looks like a little 6mm open end wrench will do it, but don't want to break anything)

:thumb:

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Worst comes to the worst, ask the question of Hipshot. They have made up mixed finishes before, so if you can't do it with these tuners there is still a possibility.

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5 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Worst comes to the worst, ask the question of Hipshot. They have made up mixed finishes before, so if you can't do it with these tuners there is still a possibility.

I did just that, though I had also asked the question over at MyLesPaul Luthier's Corner. Here's the thread, just for posterity. ;)

http://www.mylespaul.com/threads/hipshot-tuner-dismantling.400307/#post-8425585

I will make another post with the results for the sake of this build! :D

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Bill Woolery at Hipshot came through with the answer last night, and even attached several photos of the process. Hooray for Hipshot!!! (again) :thumbs:

The pics he sent were of the enclosed tuners, and mine are the open gear, so I took some of my own pics to share here. I tried also a pair of large needle-nose pliers to push up on the bottom of the locking wheel, and that worked too. But the easiest was as he described, the flat face of the side-cutting pliers was the fulcrum, and gently grabbing the shaft with the teeth ... you only have to pull it past the small flange, maybe 1/32" to be able to unscrew it the rest of the way. I'll say it again ... "Carefull you don't lose the pin!"

"Here are some pictures on how we do this when needed. We use a pair of side cutting pliers with some tape on the flat side to guard against scratching. Back the lock wheel up as far as it will go, then use a gentle prying force to get it past this point. If the wheel does not come completely out, just in-thread it the rest of the way. Careful you don't lose the pin! I hope that they will help, just know, the first one is nerve racking but after that, it really is very easy."

Last pics are switching the knobs ... not any kind of rocket science, but to show the results. :)


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Now I have to decide which I will use for this build!  There was one snag, though ... 
 
The black tuners were a 3+3 set, and the chrome were purchased separately, and they came with different sized washers!  The black washers are 12mm, and the chrome were 14.6mm.  After drilling this neck with 10mm holes, the 12mm washers look a bit silly, and more importantly, have very little purchase on the wood of the headstock.  My local supplier has no stock of parts like this, so I am again asking Hipshot for a replacement.  But shipping will be appreciably more than the cost of six washers, so I will probably just end up looking for some black anodized M8 washers.  I could probably just use readily available M8 stainless washers, too.
 
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Well ...
 
I find that my bridge is a bit low.  My careful measurements told me it would be tight, and I still think I can get decent action with the saddles set high ... but I don't like that.  I was already going to have a "surround inlay" of Padauk around the pickup to look like a ring, so thought it might look interesting to extend to the bridge.  The pic is what I am thinking. The Padauk would be raised 1~2mm.
 
From my Facebook:
 
"And I can always claim it’s a “Tone Thing” ... the specific gravity of the Padauk adds tone depth matching the neck, and the tone dispersal of brass to Pad...auk to the Limba body connected to the Padauk neck transmitted to the Wenge fretboard (giving due consideration to the relative Janka Hardness) to the brass nut will cause the strings to reverberate at a precise nodal pressure to stimulate aural satisfaction senses. Combined with my innovative 45 degree through-string with brass and Padauk intensifier block, and multiscale octavation, this guitar will surely be a certified Tone Monster."
 
:cheers2:
 
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Beautiful! Whether the wood itself indeed has some unprovable magic or not, ticking the boxes of solid design and use of appropriate materials in critical points goes 99,99% of the way towards conjuring up some sort of mojo spirit stuff thing watchacallit. Here's to the best of work and let's hope you summon that last 0,01%! 

Crikey. It's a little early in the morning for this sort of sideways humour.....:coffee:

I love it though, I really do. You're channelling a great aesthetic with aplomb.

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Padauk rocks. I love all the little insert thingy's all over the place. Great work!

Man I have to finish up my "tone analysis" framework, I even have a thread buried somewhere in here about that - once I have that I'll be asking all of you guys for sound samples for analysis :D

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I call voodoo.

Your voodoo looks great and all the best builds have some. And as Carl said, that's how you get your mojo.:thumb:

Carry on.

SR

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