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Fretless necktrough bass


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The "frets" are done, I can now either take care of the side dots, or start with the radiusing the fretboard. I started making some round 3mm stock from some scrap white acrylic using sandpaper and drill last night, but it seems to be slow and not that perfect.  I could try to make one of those dowel jigs with a metal file or a chisel.

36820407081_8c8e13061f_z.jpg1-1-IMG_20170831_200151 by Goran P, on Flickr

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Radiused! The round ledge was started with scoring it's edge, and creating a shallow channel by scoring and then cutting with a V mini chisel. It stopped the bit from wandering when routing. I'm now routing off the rest of the height difference.

Thought to order the top ferrules, but now I'm thinking of turning some from the same black acrylic stock as the fret markers.

36808363582_fa5612b91d_b.jpg1-IMG_20170902_122948 by Goran P, on Flickr

36808363132_6398a8598c_b.jpg2-IMG_20170902_132312 by Goran P, on Flickr

36792068446_f49dc727d5_b.jpg3-IMG_20170902_132953 by Goran P, on Flickr

36808363262_06a59bc7bf_b.jpg4-IMG_20170902_133642 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

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Thanks! I just try to solve problems using what is available :) 

Did some more work in the meanwhile, finished routing, scraped flush, refined the treble side of the neck some more, sanded to 120, and sanded the fretboard to glossy, if it's visible in the pic.

I need to decide what to do with the fretboard, to protect it from wear...:read any opinions please? Would flooding with CA followed by sanding/polishing be enough? Is epoxy overkill? Just oil? Fretboard is hard, dense cherry.

After some more neck profile refining, I'll glue the bass side wing, and start preparing the routing of the treble side. I'll glue it on if I manage to squeeze in the piezzo unit, If not, well...still got the template :)

 

36843730891_104db747a9_b.jpg1-IMG_20170902_180736 by Goran P, on Flickr

36148207734_95505db1b2_b.jpg2-IMG_20170902_180744 by Goran P, on Flickr

36175084913_e535b576fc_b.jpg3-IMG_20170902_180753 by Goran P, on Flickr

36175084983_e5630028cb_b.jpg4-IMG_20170902_183147 by Goran P, on Flickr

36175085173_6e3300798c_b.jpg5-IMG_20170902_191440 by Goran P, on Flickr

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Well, some dilemmas prior to cutting the bridge channel.

I want to make the bridge from bronze or brass, and I would like to make it adjustable, so I'll try this:

37063689335_33b2408b57_b.jpgbridge detail by Goran P, on Flickr

The screws are adjusted from the back, possibly with some plugs to keep them clean, and they are pushing on the filler piece, also brass or bronze. The piezzo is sandwiched between the filler piece and the actual bridge, It's10mm tall to stop any wobbling.

I should make a test piece first, though.

Also thinking of making the nut adjustable like this:

36667088840_a8bcf67742_h.jpgNUT DETAIL by Goran P, on Flickr

I'm having second thoughts on this - it would be nice to have total adjustability of action from both ends of the strings, but I don't know would this affect the tone too much - I think that a finely cut nut should be superior to any contraptions, as this nut would float on two 3 or 4mm allen screws. Then again, TOMs do just fine...

Am I overthinking this?

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Started planning/making the riser/pickguard. This is v1, can't say that I like it, but it's a  start. I'll probably make it smaller, but the main problem is that the unit is not completely vertically placed, it has a ~15mm portion going further toward the butt end. I plan to route both from the top and from the side.

36263724124_912910e2d3_z.jpg1-IMG_20170907_193210 by Goran P, on Flickr

36910267776_f517a3baed_z.jpg2-IMG_20170907_193745 by Goran P, on Flickr

36910267516_0d9f9e542a_z.jpg3-IMG_20170907_194956 by Goran P, on Flickr

36910267186_fcd014c4ae_z.jpg4-IMG_20170907_211431 by Goran P, on Flickr

36910267016_0726678354_z.jpg5-IMG_20170907_211523 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

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Sorry for the rough mock-up, obsessing over this at work...

Here are the versions 2 and 3- took off 4mm from the upper straight side, bringing it closer to the edge of the fretboard, and in the version 3, the bottom side. It could be parallel to the fretboard line or not. I'll probably go with the bigger one, or make both and then decide...opinions are more than welcome!

36911297706_9c7f589b47_b.jpgverzije by Goran P, on Flickr

Edited by gpcustomguitars
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On 06/09/2017 at 2:24 PM, gpcustomguitars said:

Well, some dilemmas prior to cutting the bridge channel.

I want to make the bridge from bronze or brass, and I would like to make it adjustable, so I'll try this:

37063689335_33b2408b57_b.jpgbridge detail by Goran P, on Flickr

The screws are adjusted from the back, possibly with some plugs to keep them clean, and they are pushing on the filler piece, also brass or bronze. The piezzo is sandwiched between the filler piece and the actual bridge, It's10mm tall to stop any wobbling.

I should make a test piece first, though.

Also thinking of making the nut adjustable like this:

36667088840_a8bcf67742_h.jpgNUT DETAIL by Goran P, on Flickr

I'm having second thoughts on this - it would be nice to have total adjustability of action from both ends of the strings, but I don't know would this affect the tone too much - I think that a finely cut nut should be superior to any contraptions, as this nut would float on two 3 or 4mm allen screws. Then again, TOMs do just fine...

Am I overthinking this?

Personally I wouldn't have many issues ref the tone.   Relating to the nut, all of the Warwick basses have a similar system (their Just-a-nut system) - and, let's face it, they aren't exactly pilloried about poor tone!

The bridge looks a very interesting concept.  Not sure how you would cut the slot, but tone-wise, as long as the saddle and the packer were both suitably stiff and square, I can't see why this wouldn't work very well.

But yes - do a mock up first!

 

I love this sort of stuff :)

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3 hours ago, gpcustomguitars said:

Sorry for the rough mock-up, obsessing over this at work...

Here are the versions 2 and 3- took off 4mm from the upper straight side, bringing it closer to the edge of the fretboard, and in the version 3, the bottom side. It could be parallel to the fretboard line or not. I'll probably go with the bigger one, or make both and then decide...opinions are more than welcome!

36911297706_9c7f589b47_b.jpgverzije by Goran P, on Flickr

I can't see what I'm supposed to be looking at (if that makes any sense!)

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:) 2 versions of the pickguard, it is to hold and rise the piezzo unit, can't decide which one to use? Re-reading what I wrote, it does sound confusing :) I took off a strip  4mm wide from the side of pickguard facing the edge of the fretboard (long straight side) in the mockup, as I didn't like what I made last night.

Edited by gpcustomguitars
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57 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Personally I wouldn't have many issues ref the tone.   Relating to the nut, all of the Warwick basses have a similar system (their Just-a-nut system) - and, let's face it, they aren't exactly pilloried about poor tone!

The bridge looks a very interesting concept.  Not sure how you would cut the slot, but tone-wise, as long as the saddle and the packer were both suitably stiff and square, I can't see why this wouldn't work very well.

But yes - do a mock up first!

 

I love this sort of stuff :)

I'm just overthinking this - you're right, the nut should be just fine sound-wise. I think I might even have those inserts somewhere.

Regarding the bridge, I would first drill 2 pilot holes from the front, all the way trough, in the intended places of the screws. Then start drilling from the back starting with the largest diameter to the smallest to set depth, and then route from the front like for the acoustic bridge saddle. The slot would be 3mm. Mock up time! Thanks!

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Well, here's what I meant - took of a strip of material from the pickguard, I think it sits a bit better now. Used the cutout to laminate a nut blank, I've tried it before as nut material and it works fine. Some trimming, rough faceting, drilling is next.

Then, put together a shooting board to join the other wing, still some sanding to do. I'll try to make the job smaller by routing from the side, it's flat enough for that.

Not sure if this will work, but I can always make another wing.

 

37117007585_16b1f9cc79_z.jpg1-IMG_20170908_213645 by Goran P, on Flickr

36720409230_9a1dffb200_b.jpg6-IMG_20170908_222123 by Goran P, on Flickr

36720409170_e1d5b4bd07_b.jpg3-IMG_20170908_221112 by Goran P, on Flickr

36720409040_3e2ea5ecd9_b.jpg4-IMG_20170908_221536 by Goran P, on Flickr

37117007815_9ec22c6333_b.jpg5-IMG_20170908_221801 by Goran P, on Flickr

37117007755_c4a6907ea4_b.jpg2-IMG_20170908_220837 by Goran P, on Flickr

36994739841_81fba1ef81_b.jpg4-IMG_20170909_165233 by Goran P, on Flickr

36994739941_8de2d503d8_b.jpg5-IMG_20170909_204655 by Goran P, on Flickr

36994739961_07c3cd627d_b.jpg6-IMG_20170909_205137 by Goran P, on Flickr

36994739631_27b010361e_b.jpg2-IMG_20170909_163708 by Goran P, on Flickr

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A busy week at work...managed some shop time yesterday.

Started the tricky bit by drilling corner holes and routing from the side, followed with some corner holes, depth holes and routing from the top. I completely forgot that the hinge will cause the piezzo block to need more depth as it rotates, so had to route trough and add a layer.

37101458152_e67a42bd5f_b.jpg1-IMG_20170910_111906 by Goran P, on Flickr

37101458482_1544398fb1_b.jpg2-IMG_20170910_113128 by Goran P, on Flickr

36875883320_f8e833b26c_b.jpg3-IMG_20170915_190032 by Goran P, on Flickr

Ddidn't like the closeness of the screw holes to those corners, so 2 small bits were glued in. I'll add some more acrylic dust and CA. Lightly sanded with orbital to get matte look, I think it will work better with the wood.

37101458672_4d862e31f0_b.jpg4-IMG_20170916_175024 by Goran P, on Flickr

36875883510_6e04a198fb_b.jpg5-IMG_20170916_180951 by Goran P, on Flickr

Decided to route some additional rotating space before gluing, and to save the thickness, trimmed the offending point. Works fine now.

36875883140_6ffa61595a_b.jpg6-IMG_20170916_193229 by Goran P, on Flickr

37101458782_316076e6c6_b.jpg7-IMG_20170916_205601 by Goran P, on Flickr

...and of course, as many clamps as there could have been squeezed for the gluing.

36875883690_2ee9b1ea7c_b.jpg8-IMG_20170916_211143 by Goran P, on Flickr

Truing the side is next, and then bridge channel.

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A few minutes in the shop late yesterday...routed the ledge, marked the angle and chiseled away most of the bulk, then refined some more with scrapers...I love scrapers!  Last shot got both of my feet in it, so...showing one half of the wing :)

 

37107873936_2b92126560_z.jpg1-IMG_20170917_180550 by Goran P, on Flickr

36461461034_6b8319ee68_z.jpg2-IMG_20170917_180556 by Goran P, on Flickr

37126073042_5a589cbe62_z.jpg3-IMG_20170917_193458 by Goran P, on Flickr

37155779471_7ceb0b1481_z.jpg4-IMG_20170917_194233 by Goran P, on Flickr

37155779171_e10ebfc8d7_z.jpg5-IMG_20170917_195819 by Goran P, on Flickr

37126072722_bb0e62f6d8_z.jpg6-IMG_20170917_202405 by Goran P, on Flickr

36461459984_0f56e49f3b_z.jpg7-IMG_20170917_204851 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

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I've managed to glue the other wing on and decided to even out the differences in thickness with some light carving. It will be just a shallow dip, but should make the lines flow and perhaps make the bass a little more comfortable.

I've somehow managed to get a small amount of glue into the hole on the truss rod, and saw it when I wanted to correct some bowing in the neck...should(n't) be a problem to pluck it out, but sure is a waste of time...I'll need to make some sort of tool to get in there....

37248334472_a3d2c202b5_b.jpg1-IMG_20170923_175000 by Goran P, on Flickr

37248334572_8f528c1311_b.jpg2-IMG_20170923_175644 by Goran P, on Flickr

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Well, glue-in-the-truss-rod problem got solved real easy - relief!!! Searched for PVA solvents and found that alcohol or acetone will melt it, got a few drops of alcohol and my glue syringe to apply it with. it took about a minute to get the key into the truss rod nut, and it turned with no problem!  Adjusted the neck and continued scraping and sanding.

36574762224_050b0694f0_b.jpg1-IMG_20170924_114143 by Goran P, on Flickr

Rounded/blended the end of body with the wings, router first, blending with file/scraper. Pilot holes for the bridge adjusters are drilled, can proceed with largest to smallest drill diameters. Dremel needs a doctor, have to see to it tomorrow...

37028503740_e017e248e5_b.jpg2-IMG_20170924_142056 by Goran P, on Flickr

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Not much to see, but I've drilled the adjuster holes. My drill press has a bit of play in it, but it went ok. Also drilled the tuner holes and started sanding....................................................................................................:coffee: what to listen to while sanding? :) I can use orbital but there's also a lot of curvy details. The Dremel went to see the Doc, waiting for news...

Still to drill - string-trough holes, got my ferrules a few days ago, and the socket, which will be somewhat tricky. Haven't decided what to use for bushings on top.

36579972004_4eba4aea07_b.jpg1-IMG_20170924_181347 by Goran P, on Flickr

Edited by gpcustomguitars
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Some progress - I've been sanding and sanding (and occasionally scraping :) ) for a while now, drilled jack hole which I hope will work nicely with some cable movement with swiveling of the piezzo preamp. Other point of worry is the piezzo connecting hole, which might be too cramped in actual assembly. Will re-drill if needed. Big components for such a small space...

I've also drilled ferule holes, 9mm, and they are 9.5, so I'll probably touch them up with my Dremel, which came back from the Dr. with a new rotor....could try to press fit, but I don't think the wood could compress that much.

Started with tung oil, one coat to highlight all my sanding mistakes, and corrected (I hope) them all. Then another coat, and prepared the wax paste. Pure beeswax + thinner + roughly 15% paraffin for some added hardness.

I need to route the bridge channel now, and make the brass parts. After that, I think another 2 coats of oil, and then wax.

 

37374231962_940f47bc0d_b.jpg1-IMG_20170928_184421 by Goran P, on Flickr

37357630986_76c2eca03d_b.jpg4-IMG_20170929_201325 by Goran P, on Flickr

37357631256_75f248d85b_b.jpg3-IMG_20170929_200250 by Goran P, on Flickr

37357630796_a74ee93be5_b.jpg2-IMG_20170929_192413 by Goran P, on Flickr

37468164511_5e98907ac6_z.jpg5-IMG_20170930_164916 by Goran P, on Flickr

36758968344_2ccf044550_z.jpg6-IMG_20170930_164928 by Goran P, on Flickr

36758968124_9028d7f8b8_z.jpg7-IMG_20171001_153223 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

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Thanks Scott!!! I wanted to add some more mass and rigidity to the headstock, but it did take space - tuners barely fit in. Looks nice though, glad you like it!

Finally got some time to route the bridge slot. I went real slow with this, 1-1.5 turns at a time. It took about 40 minutes but went fine. The router bit is tiny bit less than 3mm, 2.8 or 2.9 I think, so I'm polishing the brass down and should run a piece of plexi wraped with some 320 in the slot. I'll cut the brass in 2 strips when it's nicely rounded and thicknessed. It's a 20mm strip, and I'm planing bridge to be max 10mm and the filler piece 5 or less if needed.

37544483621_8d0836ee37_b.jpg1-IMG_20171006_192851 by Goran P, on Flickr

36834481054_b7335885da_b.jpg2-IMG_20171006_204319 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

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Made the brass parts and finished the nut, installed the inserts, seems OK! Dismantled it and added another coat of oil, wax is probably next. Still to do is the jack plate, it will be black, and perhaps some sort of plug for the TR access. I think cables will not be fun, but so far so good... I've decided against the adjustable nut, it should be OK as it is

Hope you like it!

 

36905961843_4907bc8a66_b.jpg1-IMG_20171008_164709 by Goran P, on Flickr

36905963303_a321bd6ac5_b.jpg2-IMG_20171008_174412 by Goran P, on Flickr

36905962933_8d5d1e75dd_b.jpg3-IMG_20171008_182413 by Goran P, on Flickr

Edited by gpcustomguitars
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Started the assembly! Nut is glued on, tuners were (barely) fit, strap buttons. Starting to look like a bass! I'm waiting on the black screws for the pickguard and the jack plate, which is still just rough cut. As a note for the next build, I need to work further on my finishing and I need to sharpen the lines, there are some bumps visible now, not that bad, but there...

37372229760_15401f7f74_z.jpg137 by Goran P, on Flickr

37631298681_8bb0f2a167_z.jpg138 by Goran P, on Flickr

23777972348_6d78b8b956_z.jpg145 by Goran P, on Flickr

 

 

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