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Original Edge tremolo on Ibanez S270 Korean


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3 hours ago, curtisa said:

I personally don't think that is a good comparison to your situation. Like I said earlier, you need to weigh up the cost of installing an Edge into a low-cost instrument not designed to have it installed, against all the potential issues that you may come up against in the process:

  1. Do you have the tools and experience to do this yourself (extra risk)?
  2. If not, do you have the money to pay for someone to do this for you (extra cost)?
  3. What if the installation goes badly and your guitar is left unplayable or disfigured? Can you recover the instrument if that happens (sentimental value)?

If you're happy to take the risk on the guitar, then it's entirely down to you to make it happen which ever way you see fit.

However, if any of the above points makes the job unattractive to you, can you achieve what you want by other means:

  1. Can you retrofit a different bridge that doesn't require large amounts of work in its place? - Probably (as per the discussion on installing a Gotoh, Schaller or Original Floyd Rose bridge).
  2. Can you retrofit locking saddles from another bridge in place of the existing saddles? - Possibly (requires some investigation by you).

If the above points still makes you cautious about modifying the guitar, then you need to ask:

  1. Is the guitar worth modifying to that degree, either based on the money required or if the instrument is special to you?
  2. Would the money be better spent on a different instrument that does what you want it to without requiring modification?

the instrument is special for me, and no more talk....lest work with the Schaller think is better and you maked the measures so the way to go is that....i think will be better

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14 hours ago, curtisa said:

I can't answer that for you. You have the guitar, so you must make the measurements of the existing nut to work out which one is a suitable replacement

this is my Neck so helpme please

 

Neck type

Years

Scale length

Width at nut

Width at last fret

Thickness at 1st fret

Thickness at 12th fret

Radius

Wizard II

1997–2002

648mm/ 25.5"

43mm

56mm

19mm

21mm

400mmR/ 15.75"

 

           

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Guillen said:

this is my Neck so helpme please

Neck type

Years

Scale length

Width at nut

Width at last fret

Thickness at 1st fret

Thickness at 12th fret

Radius

Wizard II

1997–2002

648mm/ 25.5"

43mm

56mm

19mm

21mm

400mmR/ 15.75"

"Width at Nut" and "Radius" are important measurements, but you need to make some more measurements to make sure you get the right one. The table doesn't show any further useful information such as the height of the nut, string spacing or the required width of the shelf that the nut rests on.

Have a look here (click on the "Technical Drawing" button) and compare the dimensions of your nut with the measurements shown on that page.

Assuming your neck is actually a Wizard II with a 43mm nut width you can straight away discount the R1, R2, R6 and R7 nuts (too narrow) and the R5 nut (too wide).

It's also worth noting that there appears to be a discrepancy in their drawings that may require emailing Schaller to check. The radius on the drawings for all 10 nuts is shown as 10", but the table on this page (under "Guidelines") suggests that the R9 and R10 nuts are 12" radius. If it turns out that all their nuts are 10" radius, I'd be wary about replacing the nut on your guitar with a Schaller version.

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14 hours ago, curtisa said:

"Width at Nut" and "Radius" are important measurements, but you need to make some more measurements to make sure you get the right one. The table doesn't show any further useful information such as the height of the nut, string spacing or the required width of the shelf that the nut rests on.

Have a look here (click on the "Technical Drawing" button) and compare the dimensions of your nut with the measurements shown on that page.

Assuming your neck is actually a Wizard II with a 43mm nut width you can straight away discount the R1, R2, R6 and R7 nuts (too narrow) and the R5 nut (too wide).

It's also worth noting that there appears to be a discrepancy in their drawings that may require emailing Schaller to check. The radius on the drawings for all 10 nuts is shown as 10", but the table on this page (under "Guidelines") suggests that the R9 and R10 nuts are 12" radius. If it turns out that all their nuts are 10" radius, I'd be wary about replacing the nut on your guitar with a Schaller version.

good information.....i will email Schaller.......for this thing about the nuts 10"

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Note

The item Tremolo Locking-Nut right R3(13120403) has been succesfully added to your cart

Tremolo Locking-Nut right

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Tremolo Locking-Nut right

Matching locking nuts for our Schaller tremolos.

  • The strings sit just as firmly, but there are no sharp edges that could potentially cause string breakage.
  • Suitable for all common string gauges.

Essentially, special studs are used to attach the tremolo, together with their own inserts. These have a fine thread. For special applications, we also supply studs with threads which can be screwed directly into the wooden body (i.e. without inserts).

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Not to necrothread, but if anyone here runs into a tech problem regarding any Ibanez stuff that cannot be answered here, drop a line to Rich at ibanezrules.com.  He is probably the best resource online for modern era (from 1988 or so) Ibanez instruments. He has been able to provide me direction when I was in a jam on a couple of things regarding my guitars.  He won't hold your hand though as he is busy on his own work.

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