Figured wood T type build

[Fretjack]

Hello all, I am new to this website and forums and I just want to find more information to help me improve my guitar building skills. I will also endeavour to provide everyone else with any info and help with anything I can along the way. I have just purchased various pieces of wood for my latest build which I will be starting in a few weeks. The main objective I am looking to get right is the high gloss clear lacquer finish on the body (nitrocellulose). I used to be a vehicle paint refinisher so I have plenty of spraying experience as well as having all the equipment but have only used 2k paint products, never nitrocellulose. I also want to learn a lot about wood and various different ways to finish them.

This is the first build where I will be using a Spalted Maple cap (or any cap for that matter). 

I want to try it out on a simple shape, hence a T type (flat top). 

I am using 40mm Ash for the body, 8mm Spalted Maple for the cap, Maple for the neck and a lovely piece of Zebrano for the fretboard. 

Hope to communicate with you soon.

Thanks.

[Stu.]

That's some lovely spalt! Does it need to be stabilised somehow before you can use it?

[Prostheta]

It is nice, definitely. The whiter areas might be a bit punky, so stabilising is probably a better idea than as not.

+1 on "front" also. That's my second most-written word.

[Fretjack]

On 03/09/2017 at 10:12 PM, Stu. said:

That's some lovely spalt! Does it need to be stabilised somehow before you can use it?

This is the first time I've used Spalted wood so I'm not sure what to do to be honest. I've read that some people use super glue on bits of it and other suggest epoxy. Any ideas? 

[Andyjr1515]

Lovely piece of wood, @Fretjack 

I have no idea about stabilising wood but I'm sure someone who does will be along shortly and educate both of us

 

I look forward to seeing how this progresses

 

Andy

[Prostheta]

I held off on responding to this since I've been on the mobile all day. Anyway. You're probably aware that no two epoxies or cyanoacrylate glues are the same. The factor that is important in choosing either is the surface tension, which most people tend to just call "thickness". Thick epoxies and superglues will sit on the surface, whereas they need to penetrate the wood fibres to set up within it, not just on it. Epoxy tends to be thicker than most superglues (at least, the ones I am most familiar with), so superglue is your best bet. Ideally, water thin.

My approach for superglue is to pour on a few drops, and then drag that around the surface, adding more so there's enough to continue permeating the surface. Punky spalts suck up glue like anything, so don't be scared to keep adding more. Just don't stretch the glue out, keep it wet and moving. Wear gloves and eye protection, plus have plenty of ventilation. Superglue fumes are abusive to your soft breathy tissues, eyes and the like. The gloves are so you don't end up with scaly skin, or gluing your self to the guitar.

[Fretjack]

Thanks for the info Prostheta, much appreciated. I will order a few bottles from Crimson I think, they stock several viscosities of super glue. 

I have only been a member of this website for a day and I have got this info already.

Andyjr1515 has been interested and reassuring as well. I'm going to like it here.

Thanks very much. I'll keep you posted with my progress.  

[Prostheta]

There's a bunch of manufacturers in the UK that will sell water thin CA direct, a saving over Crimson anyway.

[Stu.]

12 hours ago, Fretjack said:

This is the first time I've used Spalted wood so I'm not sure what to do to be honest. I've read that some people use super glue on bits of it and other suggest epoxy. Any ideas? 

It's amazing wood, but the whole stabilisation issue always scared me off! PG is definitely the place to get an education; the community here is wonderful.

1 hour ago, Fretjack said:

Thanks for the info Prostheta, much appreciated. I will order a few bottles from Crimson I think, they stock several viscosities of super glue. 

I have only been a member of this website for a day and I have got this info already.

Andyjr1515 has been interested and reassuring as well. I'm going to like it here.

Thanks very much. I'll keep you posted with my progress.  

 

Crimson do have a few nice tools. They also apply the 'luthier' tax to a lot of items too.  Like @Prostheta said, just hop onto eBay and grab a bottle of low viscosity/thin superglue. It'll only set you back a few quid!

[Mike.Mara]

On 05/09/2017 at 8:01 PM, Prostheta said:

There's a bunch of manufacturers in the UK that will sell water thin CA direct, a saving over Crimson anyway.

Axminster for example sell water thin Titebond CA... Love the stuff, you get a lot for your money too.

[Prostheta]

I didn't realise that Axminster carried it. Fantastic!

[StratsRdivine]

CA does seem to be the answer, if you can get it cheap enough, cuz you will use a lot.  My concern is that it will react with the moisture in the wood, and only penetrate so far (hardening at somepoint, losing its capillary flow), but thats a good thing, really.  

The other nice feature is that CA appears to crystallize into tone enhancing hardness.  

If one were to use epoxy (my first choice for general rot / punky stabilizing, not just guitar tops), you can thin it about 10% with alcohol, and it flows great, sinks deep.  Than sands to powder, and leaves even color for topcoats. 

[Prostheta]

In spite of CA being more or less biocompatible, the fumes are particularly noxious compared to the "just-stinks" of epoxy. Good call about the even surface finish too.