FINEFUZZ Posted June 4, 2018 Report Share Posted June 4, 2018 I have been told by the Sikkens reps to not sand any finer than 600 between any coat of paint and especially prior to clear- so to achieve the greatest adhesion between coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 4, 2018 Report Share Posted June 4, 2018 That advice correlates with what I have been told before, and what I found works (at work (where I no longer work)). In fact, I've sanded as low as 240-320 prior to final colour coats with catalysed paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 On 6/4/2018 at 9:14 AM, Prostheta said: Good to hear man! This is the result Prostheta, is perfectly flat and the gloss is amazing. Last coats of clear lacquer.. I'm very happy and always learning!!! Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Fantastic. It looks like there's a little orange peel on the clear lacquer, however this is fixed using the same method of flattening it with sandpaper and shooting more clear over the top. Orange peel is the result of spraying technique, the product itself, gun settings or that it's rattlecan paint. Very common. If you do sand back your clearcoat, be careful not to sand through the colour coat, especially on corners and edges! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: Fantastic. It looks like there's a little orange peel on the clear lacquer, however this is fixed using the same method of flattening it with sandpaper and shooting more clear over the top. Orange peel is the result of spraying technique, the product itself, gun settings or that it's rattlecan paint. Very common. If you do sand back your clearcoat, be careful not to sand through the colour coat, especially on corners and edges! Thanks for the advise Prostheta, corners are sacred prefer don't touch them. The orange peel is very little, this is normal or it should be completely flat after spraying? Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Skilled painters using proper paint guns can get reasonably flat finishes "off the gun", however this needs skills. More often than not, we accept a certain level of orange peel with most paintwork. The trick is to build up enough paint that you can cut it back with sandpaper until it's flat, and then sand through to high grits, polishing compounds, etc. to regain the gloss. Look at any factory-made car in the sun like a Ford or whatever, and you'll see orange peel on the paintwork. Then check out a show car, or maybe a high-end Merc (not sure if the quality is still as high, meh). The quality of finish is so different. It just takes a bit more work and it depends on how far you want to take the paintwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 17 hours ago, Prostheta said: Skilled painters using proper paint guns can get reasonably flat finishes "off the gun", however this needs skills. More often than not, we accept a certain level of orange peel with most paintwork. The trick is to build up enough paint that you can cut it back with sandpaper until it's flat, and then sand through to high grits, polishing compounds, etc. to regain the gloss. Look at any factory-made car in the sun like a Ford or whatever, and you'll see orange peel on the paintwork. Then check out a show car, or maybe a high-end Merc (not sure if the quality is still as high, meh). The quality of finish is so different. It just takes a bit more work and it depends on how far you want to take the paintwork. Painting is really an art, it seems to be simple with a spry gun and a compressor, but the true is different, it requieres some practise and take into account too many factors. I found easy for example the rear of the guitar, however the front, with the electronics cavities done, are created air currents and that increases the orange peel effect. I did what you say and buil up an enough layer of paint in order to wet sand with 800 and level it perfectly. Always learning!!! Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 That's the way forward, definitely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 Its time for logo design and put into the headstock, I usually put it into the trussrod cover, but like to put into the headstock, no inlay. Could someone tell me about experices with this type of work and how to deal with it? I have thought about cutting vynil, but may be too thick for cover it with the lacquer. I have doubdts about if the materials are resistant to lacquer and solvents. Any help is wellcome in order to advance work. Thank in advance and have a nice weekend!!! Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 9, 2018 Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 Generally the thinnest materials are not that resistant to the solvents in lacquer, no. The decals I use are printed using an ALPS printer onto gossamer-thin waterslide stock. The inks can run if you spray heavy coats without doing lighter "dust" coats to seal it first. I did this with rattlecan 1k lacquer: The Maple was sanded to 600-800 grit and the decal straight to the wood, hence the slight crackling in the gold from the wood sucking solvents around the decal. A couple of dust coats were done by moving the aerosol 50% further back so the lacquer hits the wood almost dry. This is done a few times with time for the solvent to flash off in between. After the decal was adequately sealed I sprayed as normal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Really amazing Prostheta. Impeccable work, beautiful logo and beautiful pic. How did you do the gold colour? Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Rothko & Frost in the UK. I had a sheet of decals printed in black and gold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 6 hours ago, Prostheta said: Rothko & Frost in the UK. I had a sheet of decals printed in black and gold. Thank you so much. I'll have a look at their website. Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 I have a question, decals, logos, vinyls open a world of possibilities, but when you attach to the headstock and spry lacquer or poliretane over it, I think the normal think is the solvents miss the sticker. I've just done a test with, alcohol, no problem, with solvent, the drawing dessapeared. Tomorrow I'll try with clear poliuretane without solvent...Any advise about this issue? Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Yes, spray a couple of dust coats to seal the decal. The amount of solvent being laid onto the decal is low enough so that it doesn't melt. These decals melt with both alcohol and stronger solvents, however I sealed it with with a couple of light dust coats 2mins between from a 2K aerosol, then laid on a couple of proper coats. It's not the best example (I broke the decal in the lower part of the L, plus I didn't completely grain fill the Wengé) however it was only a prototype run. The 2K has been sanded back with 800 grit to get rid of orange peel like you were experiencing. The next layers should build up high enough so that it can be cut back to a perfectly (for the most part....) flat surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 15 hours ago, Prostheta said: Yes, spray a couple of dust coats to seal the decal. The amount of solvent being laid onto the decal is low enough so that it doesn't melt. These decals melt with both alcohol and stronger solvents, however I sealed it with with a couple of light dust coats 2mins between from a 2K aerosol, then laid on a couple of proper coats. It's not the best example (I broke the decal in the lower part of the L, plus I didn't completely grain fill the Wengé) however it was only a prototype run. The 2K has been sanded back with 800 grit to get rid of orange peel like you were experiencing. The next layers should build up high enough so that it can be cut back to a perfectly (for the most part....) flat surface. Thank you so much Prostheta!!! I understand when you refer to "dust coat" means in my case, poliuretane lacquer + catalyst without solvent? Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Today I've been making the bevels os the truss rod covers made out of ebony. I did it with the help of the dremel and much patience, but the result well worth the effort. After that I polished and buffed. Over them will go my signature. Some pics: Scorpionscar 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 8 hours ago, scorpionscar said: Thank you so much Prostheta!!! I understand when you refer to "dust coat" means in my case, poliuretane lacquer + catalyst without solvent? Scorpionscar It doesn't matter whether the clearcoat has solvents or alcohol in it or not. The point is that the first coats are light and dry enough that they seal the decal, so that later coats don't damage it. The solvents in my 2K would eat the decal in a heartbeat if I laid on a thick coat straight away, however the dust coats don't have enough solvents left in them to do so. I can go over this in far better detail when I do the "proper" build, however that is a little further down the schedule. This was a prototype to prove the design and methods. It'll work out just as well though. In all honesty, I prefer paints that have highly-volatile solvents in them. They might be extremely bad for your health (respirator, 100%) however the solvents flash off very quickly and the curing time is in the order of a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 Thank you so much for your advise Prostheta. Today I'm goin to do rehearshals in order to see what happens. I'll follow what you have told me. Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 Your patience and attention to detail is awe-inspiring. Very nice work. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 18 hours ago, scorpionscar said: Today I've been making the bevels os the truss rod covers made out of ebony. I did it with the help of the dremel and much patience, but the result well worth the effort. After that I polished and buffed. Over them will go my signature. Some pics: Scorpionscar Very nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 5 hours ago, ScottR said: Your patience and attention to detail is awe-inspiring. Very nice work. SR Thank you so much ScottR. I'm glad you like it!!! 3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Very nice work Thank you so much AndyJr1515!!! Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 I was wondering what to use for a TRC on my build. Lovely job scorp, soon to be plagiarised 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpionscar Posted June 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 9 hours ago, Norris said: I was wondering what to use for a TRC on my build. Lovely job scorp, soon to be plagiarised I'm using now for TRC ebony and stainless steel, but love working with ebony because appart from its beauty is very easy to work with, bevels are done quick and easy with the proper tools. Glad you like it Norris!!! Scorpionscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 13 hours ago, scorpionscar said: I'm using now for TRC ebony and stainless steel, but love working with ebony because appart from its beauty is very easy to work with, bevels are done quick and easy with the proper tools. Glad you like it Norris!!! Scorpionscar I was wondering wether to make a metal/ebony laminate for durability. I don't know how a thin sliver of ebony would stand up to being removed and refitted a few times. A slight over-tightening of the screws is likely to split it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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