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Three new rockers are coming to life


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23 hours ago, ScottR said:

I usually highlight the quote and hit the delete key on my keyboard whenever I want to get rid of it. Will that work for you?

SR

I'm going to try now and see what happens, strange problem...

22 hours ago, Pariahrob said:

Happens to me too but only on my phone. On my Mac it’s fine. 

Lovely cover by the way. Nice photography too! I’d love to see your special Nile sander. 

I' going to put some pics of the machine. Is easy to do, but tedious. It works, really really good and save much time. Is one of the best machines in my workshop, moreover I have special affect cause is a creation of mine. Happy weekend:

 

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Scorpionscar

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5 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Now that's a spindle sander! Very nice! I love it.

SR

Is not exactly a spindle sander cause it has no movement upwards-downwards but it works really good. I adappted a glutter piece with a reduction and allows me to connect the vacuum.

Scorpionscar

Edited by scorpionscar
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Today I've been working on a jig for a broken neck reparation. It has nothing to do with the project I'm documenting but I thought it is interesting and could be useful for others. I looked for on the Internet, bud to be honest didn't find too much ideas about building a jig for this purpose. First off all I goin to route 3 mortises with the router bit and a bit of 6 mm diameter. As you can see the jig allows the movement forwards-backwards. Where the base of the router is screwed to the MDF I made channels so as to allow the router to be moved left-right. When the mortises are done, I will glue the splines (in this case made of wengue) with titebond. After that I'll thickness the back sie of the headstock in order to glue a backstrap overhead for a better reinforcement and for an aesthetic issue. I hope it can be useful for you. Happy weekend.

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Scorpionscar

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Today I've been installing the frets, jumbo type. I did it with the help of a hammer. This is a delicate work due to sometimes when you install one tip and then hammer the opposite, it tends to get out and is easy to provocate crisps in the ébony. I installed the side dot markers but had a terrible problem. The bit broke down and got trapped inside the ebony. It was impossible to extract it and thought of filling the gap with a mixture of epoxy and ebony dust but didn't like the idea of redo the new drill because it will be off center. What I did was to insert the drill bit upside down in the drill press in order to use it as a press to introduce the broken one inside the ebony, and I did it. the broken piece entered the ebony about one milimiter. this allowed me to glue the plastic marker. The result was perfect luckely.

After that, I carved the neck with the help of gouges, rasps and spoke shave, my favourte. Then I sanded with a Delda sander by Bosch, which is very useful for this kind of works. Some pics of the process/results:


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Scorpionscar

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2 hours ago, psikoT said:

Side dots need to be drilled just 2-3 mm, more than that is totally useless. I always use a hand drill ("berbiquí" in spanish) to be more precise and avoid complications.

Nice work, as always! :thumb:

Yes, you are right GOTM, about 3 mm is right. I did a 5 mm metacrilate template with the drill holes of the markers done. I fix it to the fingerboard with double side tape. This is usesfull casuse is no necessary any measuremente. The jig usually works great, but this time, the beat was forced and broke down...

Thank you so much for your words. They encourge me for continuing working as well as I can.

Sorpionscar

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7 hours ago, ScottR said:

Wow! That is seriously awesome!

SR

Thank you ScottR, I'm glad you like it. To be honest is the first time I'v used wenge in a guitar and have to say that is a surprising wood that the more I advance the neck, the more I like it, easy to carve with the spokeshave and the grain is really really gorgeous. The combination with the bubinga is very beautiful. I'm really enjoying this building!

Scorpionscar

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Today I've been fixing the MOP stars with the correspondient ebony frame. I'v routed the cavities for the inlays. For this I've used a dremel and a base I built for it. Is a similar model like Stew Mac one, and works perfectly. I used a plastic tube of 8 mm diameter connected to the vacuum cleaner. What type of glue do you think is suitable for the inlays, epoxy A&B, superglue...I like expoxy but is to rapid and have to mix the two components for each inlay and is very time-consuming, the adventage is that it allows to mix fretboard dust and make a paste with the same colour. some pics of the process:

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Scorpionscar

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5 hours ago, Norris said:

Did you make the ebony frames for the stars yourself? Some seriously meticulous work going on there. Well done 

No Norris, the ebony frames were done by laser cut, and even using a laser it was no easy cause from 12th fret to 21th the frame is 0.8mm, impossible to make by hand. The rest routings are done by hand with a Dremel and a base I made for it.

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Scorpionscar

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I've been glueing the Strato stars. For this work I've used an eposy resin 60/40. For more acuracy I weighted the two components. It was a difficult work because the nacar was inlayed in the ebony frame, so I had to glue both first wie CA. In some cases the star+frame didn't fit right in the cavity, so, I had to fix with a diamond file and with a screw driver that I turned into a little chisel. Is not easy to test if the star fits correctly because then is difficult or almost imposible to extrat frome the cavity, for that reason you must to be very careful.

There is some stars where there is a little slack between the ebony and the cavity, for fixing this I cut a chip from a maple piece with the chisel and then cut at the desired size and insert in the gap with  the help of a  tip-end grippers. The result of this technique is very good. Some pics of the process:

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Scorpionscar

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