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6 string electric for me


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20 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

so- Thanksgiving Holiday got in the way of progress here. I also changed my mind on my original idea regarding electronics and such. 

I have finalized on the following

Fender style trem vs the bigsby I was going to use for this. I am saving the bigsby for another project, 

I was originally going to go with 2 P-90s but I want some balls in the bridge - but I didnt want to give up on the p-90 either- so- compromised and going to use a Seymour Duncan P-rails in the bridge, and I was going to use a mini DPDT on/off/on switch to go between the p-90, the rail and then humbucker (series)mode-(I did this with a lap steel I built a few years back) but I notice Duncan has come out with these  Triple Shot humbucker rings with switches in them that allow for the p-90/rails/and humbucker in both series and parallel modes. Think I will give that a shot and have one less switch on the face of the guitar.

I am doing a test on the headstock. It appears that teisco guitars did not have a headstock angle. they also appear to not have string anchors-so- I am wondering how "deep" the face of the headstock has to be to get enough pressure over the nut so not to cause any issues. In other words folks- i havent completely finished the "plan" for the neck- and should before I continue. 

progress pics forthcoming

I watch with great interest to how this progresses :)

I'm a fan of P-rails (they wil be going in my super-slim build if I ever finish it).  I also use the triple shot rings on a couple of my guitars.  They work well in my experience....

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  • 3 weeks later...

wow-I am way behind updating this thread. I told myself I was going to take pics of every little thing no matter how small/big and keep this posted every other day. well- honey do list items and such have taken over. I will try to get back on track

Related to the inlay I plan on doing- so- I had to make "thins". Not always easy when you have bench top toys you call tools- but- I have seen people do better with less so here goes. I was originally going to use my safe-t-planer for this- but these pen blanks are too small for the safe-t-planer (yes- I know you can put them on a "carrier" piece of wood- but- the safe-t-planer can be a scary ass piece of equipment when your fingers are close to it. I chose comfortable safety over possible disaster)

rough cut on  9" band saw- very uneven- tons of blade drift-the yellowheart and holly on the left have been thru the sanding disc rig one pass

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the brown wood to the right is the push stick- i use this same set up when thicknessing corian for nut blanks-the space between the edge of the sanding drum and the fence determines the approx thickness of whatever you are sanding. This still leaves "waves" (uneven sanding)- so- best to leave a little thicker and then flat sand it down to final thickness

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getting there- the drum is 120 grit - this is after 3 (light) passes-you can see how fine the sawdust is on the drill press table- like flour

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once I finish with the sanding drum- its on to hand sanding. I use the flat base of my thicknessing jig (covered with 60 grit) to hold each piece, take various grits of sand paper, 100, 220, 320 in this case, and wrap around my homemade fret leveling file-I mark the down side of each thin with marker so I know top from bottom, and go thru the grits on the top side only.. At 320, I damp wipe, let dry and re-sand 320 to get these smooth. I will end up sanding them again after cutting and placing in epoxy, but I want them very much smooth now so less sanding later

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making the routing template for the neck. I put paper plans glued to 1/4" mdf or hardboard or whatever I have laying around, and then really fine tune/sand/get it just right before making the working template. I use half inch or even 3/4 inch mdf for this- which ever i have on hand. I didnt have any cut offs that fit so here I am gluing to a quarter sheet of 1/2inch mdf

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I put painters tape on the underside of the 1/4" template- but ran out before I could put any on the mdf sheet- so- hopefully I wont tear out much of the mdf when I pry these apart. I spread a laser thin amount of glue with my finger and clamped it down. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

way behind posting again-I have pics on my phone/pics on my camera and need to get sorted- the dates on the camera are all screwed up. also had a bit of an interruption with all the house guests I have hosted the last couple weeks and the weather has been extremely cold here-too cold to work in the garage. 

so- my shop vac bit the dust- thus the pile up on the router table- neck template done-luckily santa brought me a few home depot gift cards and a new shop vac has been purchased.

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making a headstock template to use with my (O'brien guitars) drill press routing method.

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does any one else use these little ruler thingys to pry up double stick tape (or in my case scotch tape plus glue?)

these rulers are also the perfect size (with just a touch of sanding) for fret slot cleaning- pushing out sawdust/etc. i have 2 or 3 I actually use for measurements, and 2 or 3 lying around that have been sanded- used for anything but measuring

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I always love when a box from lmii or stewmac shows up. I had to order Indian rosewood fingerboard blank as I am completely out of IR. I think the last time I bought IR it was $8 or maybe $9 - its now $18. poof. 

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back to the inlay- I sized the image I am using in MS Paint- and made multiple copies so when I cut out the piece parts I have clean edges on each piece. the bigger image below was just a tad too big, so- reused the paper and printed out a bunch of smaller sized images

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17 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

does any one else use these little ruler thingys to pry up double stick tape (or in my case scotch tape plus glue?)

these rulers are also the perfect size (with just a touch of sanding) for fret slot cleaning- pushing out sawdust/etc. i have 2 or 3 I actually use for measurements, and 2 or 3 lying around that have been sanded- used for anything but measuring

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Love the stickers :)

I use a back-to-front flexi pull saw for easing off double-sided tape...same principle ;)

Good to see this is still progressing - more pics; more pics; more pics; more pic !!!!!

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i ended up having to use the fret slotting jig I made for a chapman stick size neck blank (not sure where my regular size jig went to), it requires a "carrier" lumber underneath- in this case- mahogany. I have sized it so that when the saw bottoms out" on the guide- the cut is deep enough in the slots. it works ok- but I miss my other jig-probably hiding down in the basement in some plastic tote packed away with a bunch of my daughter's crap. 

 

 

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So- i mentioned before that my pics are coming into my computer all wonky- ie- dates- I have literally thousands of pics on my computer- and the build photos are coming in as 2009, 2012, 2016 and finding them is a PIA. Trying to keep these in order as best I can. This is a pic of my thicknessing jig. The base is made of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood- and is straight and flat. This jig has functions on both sides- the one side facing the bench in this pic has 80 grit sand paper on it- I use it to flatten sand surfaces, and it also has my myka neck angle jig. This side has screw downs that held the Turner Model one I did a few years back and I can use my 25" radius router rig with. with the rails and screw downs off- I use this side also for my flattening jig- nothing fancy- sides are mdf stacked up, another piece of mdf for the sled with a 3/4 in piece glued and screwed into the edge to keep the sled from dipping under weight of the router. the router itself is screwed in from the bottom (recessed screw holes) to keep from rocking or tilting off the sled. Ghetto as hell but it works.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am trying to post pictures in order- but as I have stated before- having issues with dates on imported camera photos- I did an import from the camera and it created 1200 folders- with dates all over the map. Then when I did another import a week later- I ended up with over 3200 folders- with dates all over the place- like the photo below- found in the 6/16/1999 folder.making slow progress getting these in order. The guitar body and neck are pretty much done-i havent done the frets yet and i am having a second go at the inlay as i wasnt happy with first result. The black epoxy I used sanded out grayish and then stayed that way. I will post more as I come across them in pecking order. 

first time I have used a hand held router with edge guide to do an truss rod channel. It went a lot quicker than setting up the table- but I think I still like having the router mounted and moving the work piece vs moving a spinning blade. 

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2 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

I am trying to post pictures in order- but as I have stated before- having issues with dates on imported camera photos- I did an import from the camera and it created 1200 folders- with dates all over the map. Then when I did another import a week later- I ended up with over 3200 folders- with dates all over the place- like the photo below- found in the 6/16/1999 folder.making slow progress getting these in order. The guitar body and neck are pretty much done-i havent done the frets yet and i am having a second go at the inlay as i wasnt happy with first result. The black epoxy I used sanded out grayish and then stayed that way. I will post more as I come across them in pecking order. 

first time I have used a hand held router with edge guide to do an truss rod channel. It went a lot quicker than setting up the table- but I think I still like having the router mounted and moving the work piece vs moving a spinning blade. 

20180121_164922.thumb.jpg.7e1e0476f6c17013d4c50943babc7218.jpg

I use that approach generally for truss rod slots.  Works OK providing the router bit is the finished channel dia. (which mine usually are - 6mm bit and 6mm trussrod).  Multi-passes for a wider channel are a bit too hit and miss for my liking with the very crude way of adjusting the edge guide on my set up.

Yes - photo albums.  I don't know what package you use, but it is one of those mysteries of Microsoft Windows and many of the other photo apps that exist that the very, very basic filing and sorting that you actually need and want is just about impossible.  They all act like a kid walking into a nuclear power station control room and pressing all the pretty coloured buttons for no better reason than they are there.

I now have medication to stop me suffering stroke-inducing blood pressure levels every time Windows 10 flashes up "We have created a new album for you" - which means it has done something absolutely and completely random when the f*****g (flipping) thing won't even let me order my own photos by date or name or any other f*****g thing!!!!!!!!  MY OWN PHOTOS, BILL FLIPPING GATES.  MY OWN PHOTOS!!!!!!

There you go.  Now I need another pill.

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  • 3 months later...

@Andyjr1515-my struggle with the Windows 10 vs canon utilities disk continues. My had bought my camera way prior to windows 10 coming out- now that I have a new computer with windows 10- they dont play nice- and there are many threads on various ways to overcome certain issues with the new canon utilities sw, the older cameras and windows 10. 

I have not succeeded. I havent quit yet- but its taking way too much time that I really dont care to invest lately. So- I have been going thru all the files windows has created- one by one- a few at a time- and painstakingly recreate time lines with photos (ie- label)- then I get sick of that- try to figure out a fix- do research onthe subject- try something new- have it fail- go back to onsey twosey on the photos. 

Anyway- I am bumping this thread and others so I have them in close proximity (vs searching thru pages of threads) as I will be updating with some found photos. or I may just post a near finished photo and say fook it. 

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just a little thought... if you need to mass relabel things... there are a few free programs that make that really easy.  I use builkrenameutility, or used to, to name cut up samples.  it has a number of ways you can add patterns and stuff.  just a thought.

also that headstock - love that shape.  very nice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@mistermikev-thanks for the idea on the labeling-but the problem remains I have to physically look at each photo and try to put the date to it and put everything back in order. It appears many people have run into this with their canon cameras that were purchased prior to windows 10- and there are various threads I have found with suggested fixes- none of which have worked. I finally got a new utility disk - removed all the photos, removed the windows photos program that was the issue, loaded the new utility disk- and all is well. Unfortunately I still have the issue with the old photos so I am loading them as I find them. 

re- the headstock shape- i have always liked the old Teisco guitars- as cheap and gawdy as some of them are. Also- those were some of the first guitars I remember seeing as a child- the offshoot brand that was in the sears catalogs anyway. I think it has sort of stuck with me all these years and finally now building one.

this guitar is actually in its final stages of being complete- just posting pics as I come across them (hopefully in order)

using painters tape on both the template and neck blank- light glue- attaching the template. I will take to bandsaw to remove the bulk and then belt sander prior to routing. 

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i have no idea if this next batch of pics will be in order or not but trying to find this is quite the hassle. 

round over- I am using a 1/2" round over bit not quite fully flush with table surface as I have absolutely no idea where my 3/8" bit is- and if relative or neighbor borrowed it its gone. I need to quit letting peeps play with my shite.

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I realize a 1/2" bit doesnt quite provide the same round over but a little sanding and it will be fine

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