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ScottR

Stripy Double Cut With An F-Hole

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6 hours ago, ScottR said:

I was a little surprised that the layers were not visible on the honed part of the blade. I assume that's normal....:mellow:

SR

That's because the etching is done before the sharpening, I believe... got addicted to watch videos from blacksmiths in youtube. Really fascinating stuff, some Damascus knives are made with more than 1000 layers. 

Forgot to say... that handle you made is gorgeous.

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Thank you kind sir.

I followed the link @Norris posted and read that:

"Etching is the moment the signature ‘Damascus’ markings become visible, as a solution of acid salts reveals the pattern and as the story of its making."

I never realized that. I always assumed the folding and layering left the visible patterns. I suppose this means that the markings could all be sanded off (which I also did not realize) and likewise the honed edge could be etched again and the markings would become visible again.

I doubt that would be good for the razor sharp edge I put on it though.:huh:

SR

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I found a few hours to do a bit of work before hitting the road for the holidays. I finished flattening the gluing surface of the top. The interlocked figure of zebrawood tears out during planing not matter which direction you go--with the grain.I was able to counter that by using a very sharp iron and planing across the grain in very thin passes. I used the side of my plane to verify flatness.

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After fine tuning the body wood the same way, I clamped the two parts together....so theyed get used to the idea of being mated whilst they wait till the time arrives to be permanently joined.

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Happiness is a new bandsaw blade.Mine did come in and properly set up, it sliced through my ebony board like butter. Really hard butter.:)

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I'm off for the holidays shortly...Happy Holidays everyone!

SR

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I got back from holiday traveling in time to get a little more done. It was a good trip but brutally cold in the Kansas city area, and pretty damn cold here when I got back to Houston too. I had to fire up my little space heater and keep the garage door shut. I hope that doesn't harsh the mojo.....all of my builds get done in the open doorway of my garage normally.

I flattened and slotted that slice of ebony.

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Next I routed the truss rod slot, taking special care to make it my customary hair off-center.:blush

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I wipe a thin coat of Vaseline on the threads and top edge of the truss rod and then run a strip of scotch tape across the channel. This keeps the tape from sticking to the rod and the glue from getting into the channel. I trim the tape back close to the edge too. I use fine brads as locating pins outside the cut line of the neck.

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Add a strip of blue tape to keep the nut bed free of glue and it's ready to clamp up.

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SR

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Out of the clamps and on to the drill press for tuner holes. I like to drill mine while there is still excess wood on the back side instead of drilling into a scrap base to prevent tea-rout on the back side.

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Now, on to the band saw to cut to shape.

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SR

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Next, we clean up and square up the sides and tenon.

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And on to the rabid beaver.

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Sadly, it got dark before he could finish his meal. He'll need to make a new reservation for next weekend.

SR

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Once the headstock carve is done it's time to add fret locator dots and side dots, and then radius and polish the fretboard.

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I can't remember ever having as much trouble fretting as this board gave me. I set the depth guide and dressed the slots several times as I radiused and polished the board in the hopes that I could keep it pristine, while fretting. I apparently wallowed out the ends of several slots and they wouldn't grip the tangs. I had to pull several frets and fill the slots with CA, level and re-polish the board and re-cut the slots to get them to hold the tangs. other frets didn't want to go in deep enough, even though I repeatedly checked the slot depth. Finally I set the depth just a tad deeper and life got much easier.

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I ran out of daylight before I could get any fret dressing done, so that will be on the agenda next weekend.

SR

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Nice clean work as usual! Hope the frets won't give you any more trouble. Could you perhaps explain a bit more your procedure for going from chiseling to smooth when carving? You probably explained it at some point, but can't remember where...

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12 hours ago, ScottR said:

That center stripe of Katalox is super hard....and looks like a slice of steak.

medium rare I would say-leaning towards medium?

Being unfamiliar with Katalox-is that darker edge where the glue line is natural or caused by oxidation prior to gluing? from the pictures it almost looks like you have 2 additional laminations of a dark brown wood in there. 

cranking it out Scotty!

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7 hours ago, gpcustomguitars said:

Nice clean work as usual! Hope the frets won't give you any more trouble. Could you perhaps explain a bit more your procedure for going from chiseling to smooth when carving? You probably explained it at some point, but can't remember where...

80  grit sandpaper....on a variety of shaped blocks and wrapped around dowels of various diameters. Actually a dremel with a sanding drum attachment on a flex shaft gets most of the chisel marks out, then the sanding blocks and also some scraping with utility knife blades. And a caliper is used to gauge the thickness.

SR

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1 hour ago, Mr Natural said:

medium rare I would say-leaning towards medium?

Being unfamiliar with Katalox-is that darker edge where the glue line is natural or caused by oxidation prior to gluing? from the pictures it almost looks like you have 2 additional laminations of a dark brown wood in there. 

cranking it out Scotty!

This is my first time for Katalox too.  It is also called Mexican royal ebony. The board I bought was a deep dark almost black brown. So I'm assuming that the inner color is the color of fresh cut wood and it oxidizes dark. It kind of reminds me of purple heart. The dark line is the color of the wood surface.

SR

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