Jump to content

Entry for August 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open to all!
ENTER HERE!

Recommended Posts

So I've posted a couple build threads that were a bit shy on details of my actual process and contained mostly photo's of where its at at difference stages, and were posted in one big lump after the build was actually complete.

Nice to look at, but not very helpful to folks trying to possibly learn something.

In this thread thread I'll be posting as the build progresses and I'll attempt to describe in greater detail the actual work and how I'm doing various things. Probably nothing new to most of you, but you never know where you might pick up some little tidbit that makes your life a little easier...

I've only done one actual bit of this build so far so I'll add pictures of that, but the actual work wont begin until mid-to-late March as I have another build i'm wrapping up over the next few weeks.

I figured I'd get a start on this build thread today though, and I'll pick it up in March once I proceed.

So, you will recall the build I did as a memorial for my son. That model I call the "24 Magnum" that model began life as a 22 fret version and I re-imagined it to a 24 fret, 25.5" scale axe.

Like before it'll have all my favorite features, and some changes in specs a bit different from the 24 fret model:

  • Neck-through-body
  • 3-piece laminate neck
  • carbon fiber reinforcement in the neck
  • 22 Stainless steel frets
  • 25" scale length
  • 12" fretboard radius
  • Tonepros TOM bridge and stop tailpiece
  • Grover locking rotomatic tuners
  • unbleached bone nut
  • Seymour duncan pickups (JB and Jazz)
  • One volume, one tone, 5-position super switch
  • Bookmatched, quilted maple top
  • faux binding
  • Macasser Ebony fretboard
  • White MOP bird inlays
  • "Addict" inlayed TR cover

 

This will be finished in nitro with a tiger eye finish and a slight burst, and matching quilted headstock overlay.

 

So, the design looks pretty boring as a 2D line drawing, but this is it. It will have the same top carve I put on the Phoenix 24 Magnum. I also added a slight bit of roundness to the bottom end of the guitar. The 24 Magnum was flatter...

 

22-mag-fixed.jpg

 

 

This is an example of the finish I hope to achieve...

Prs-ps6152-cst24-bfwwg.jpg

 

This is the quilted maple billet I purchased for the build.

 

blobs.jpg

 

 

As you have no doubt guessed, I have an almost pathological love for transparent finishes over figured maple. To date I have not done a single opaque finish.

 

The one bit of work I've done thus far (other than plan the build and make some templates)  is to re-saw and join the top, so this is where I am in the build at this point :)

 

22-mag-top28.jpg

22-mag-top27.jpg

 

More to come in March :)

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Skyjerk said:

As you have no doubt guessed, I have an almost pathological love for transparent finishes over figured maple. To date I have not done a single opaque finish

I'm not sure I ever will......

That billet is a beaut. This will a be a fun build to follow.

SR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Norris said:

That's a gorgeous hunk of wood! 

Darn - you've got me looking for quilted maple blanks now :D

 

Have some smelling salts on hand for when you see the prices for billets like that one...

I got some of my money back on this one because it was thick enough to get a 1/4" drop top as well as the full thickness top for this build. The drop top I sold on a guitar I'm building for my bosses bosses boss.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, Skyjerk said:

Have some smelling salts on hand for when you see the prices for billets like that one...

Almost gold aren't they.

 

31 minutes ago, Skyjerk said:

I got some of my money back on this one because it was thick enough to get a 1/4" drop top as well as the full thickness top for this build. The drop top I sold on a guitar I'm building for my bosses bosses boss.

Nice. How thick of top did you end up with besides that?

SR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ScottR said:

Almost gold aren't they.

 

Nice. How thick of top did you end up with besides that?

SR

The bookmatched top in the pic above that I'll be putting on the 22 Magnum is just about .8" and coincidentally exactly the thickness I need. Had I lost any more to the drop top I'd have had to compensate with a thicker back.

I was sweating when I was running it through the drum sander.

The original billet was plenty thick for both tops when I started, but it had a little twist in it and by the time I planed it flat I had lost enough that it was going to be close as to whether I'd have enough left for both tops without having to alter my plans, but I just squeaked by under the wire :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You make a good point about planning when dealing with intensely figured maple tops like that. No matter how how dry and square they are to begin with, I have never had one that did not cup or twist significantly after re-sawing. I don't think it is safe to count on more than 75% yield from the original thickness.

That may even be optimistic.

SR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, ScottR said:

You make a good point about planning when dealing with intensely figured maple tops like that. No matter how how dry and square they are to begin with, I have never had one that did not cup or twist significantly after re-sawing. I don't think it is safe to count on more than 75% yield from the original thickness.

That may even be optimistic.

SR

Thats consistent with my own experience.

In the case of this top, even though I wasnt going to be using the bulk of it until March at least, I still jointed and glued it up after I cut the drop top off of it because if I let it sit as once piece for another 4 months after slicing 3/4" off it, its almost guaranteed to move again given some time to sit, and I'd have to plane even more off to make the top flat for joining.

Since its now already jointed and glued, if it develops a slight cup by the time I need it I can clamp that cup right out of it when I glue the top on and wont need to shave off any more thickness.

I've got plenty of clamps :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×