ZekeB Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Pickup cavity and control channel cut. try to do the carve tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Are you drawing on your contour lines first? It's worth doing that even if you have to do it several times until you're happy. I'm doing a contoured singlecut and my first step is going to be to do a small shelf from tip to tip defining the lowest point at the edges, then doing a binding channel in there. Not sure if this helps you, however it's the way I'm going with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 3 hours ago, ZekeB said: Pickup cavity and control channel cut. try to do the carve tomorrow Neat work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Trying to catch up on post. Cut the control cavity and civer and carved the top. Speed is not my forte on carving. Took me a few nights carving up away from the binding channels I don't nick it. I did end up drawing the contour lines like you said. Thanks for the advice. I've got lots of sanding and refine to do on the shape but here it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Slow and steady like @ScottR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 (edited) I think i may taper off the back a little more. I'll wait to see what it looks like sanded. Seems like there's a lot of void area there. Maybe sanding in the curve will help. The bridge will also help. Maybe I'm focusing on the pickup area. Edited July 7, 2018 by ZekeB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 1 hour ago, ZekeB said: Trying to catch up on post. Cut the control cavity and civer and carved the top. Speed is not my forte on carving. Took me a few nights carving up away from the binding channels I don't nick it. I did end up drawing the contour lines like you said. Thanks for the advice. I've got lots of sanding and refine to do on the shape but here it is. Look at you go! Nice. You may wish you carved a little closer to the innermost contour line (maybe split the difference)...but I understand the fear of taking a chip too deep. Shallow cuts rule in that area. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 (edited) No I think you confirmed what I was feeling. I think that will help give it a little more organic feel. I'll balance it out tonight Edited July 7, 2018 by ZekeB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Went back and brought that carve in to the inner contour line. Really like the result. Feels a lot fuller. Time for sanding. Thanks for the advice SR 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Lots more sanding to do but it's coming. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Good call on the inner contour. This is looking very tactile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 You've got all the right skills, that's clear. Using light makes everything a magnitude better, however I'm sure I don't need to tell you that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Good call on the inner contour. This is looking very tactile. Absolutely! My current build is a slab body, and I'm going to miss doing a top carve. It's a beautiful thing when it becomes "right". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 5 hours ago, Prostheta said: You've got all the right skills, that's clear. Using light makes everything a magnitude better, however I'm sure I don't need to tell you that. Thanks for the kind words. I'm thankful to have a strong community to learn from and help me get things right the first time. I can see how trial and error on your own could be a very long agrivating endeavor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 10 hours ago, ZekeB said: Lots more sanding to do but it's coming. Looking good! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 On 7/9/2018 at 8:38 AM, ZekeB said: Thanks for the kind words. I'm thankful to have a strong community to learn from and help me get things right the first time. I can see how trial and error on your own could be a very long agrivating endeavor. But great learning experiences! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Definitely this. If you're capable of taking something from everything then you're always going to be working in an upwards direction. Trial and error is the same as hit and miss. You'll get something every once in a while, however you often don't know what you missed and why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 On my business trip here was able to CAD out my knobs. What you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 These should be sharp looking and I like the inner-outer sleeve concept. Are you planning on using splined shafts on the pots? A set screw would be problematic... The tiny inlay work would make me crazy....I'm looking forward to seeing you pull it off. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 I think that producing the outer Mahogany shell will be extremely difficult and/or impractical without supporting the grain from the inside when cutting the outside or vice versa. I would be inclined to use grub screws to secure the knob at the correct height so it's adjustable as a unit rather than relying on the nut/washer to provide height setting. This friction might also make the knob feel sticky in use, and likely inconsistent around its range as that friction varies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 1 minute ago, ScottR said: These should be sharp looking and I like the inner-outer sleeve concept. Are you planning on using splined shafts on the pots? A set screw would be problematic... The tiny inlay work would make me crazy....I'm looking forward to seeing you pull it off. SR Replied as I was typing as usual, Scott! I disagree about set screws if it's about getting a thread established. The inner core should be made from some material that holds a better thread anyway. Maybe an engineering plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: Replied as I was typing as usual, Scott! I disagree about set screws if it's about getting a thread established. The inner core should be made from some material that holds a better thread anyway. Maybe an engineering plastic. I was thinking in terms of setting up a set screw in advance. It would have to be threaded through both sleeves and that would eliminate the usefulness of being able to slide them up or down to set the height. I suppose the height could be set first and then the hole drilled and threaded for a set screw. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: I think that producing the outer Mahogany shell will be extremely difficult and/or impractical without supporting the grain from the inside when cutting the outside or vice versa. I would be inclined to use grub screws to secure the knob at the correct height so it's adjustable as a unit rather than relying on the nut/washer to provide height setting. This friction might also make the knob feel sticky in use, and likely inconsistent around its range as that friction varies. I've got a plan for this. I've made some sleeves in the past and made a little jig. Its two cone looking pieces that have a open bolt between the two. I put my piece around the bolt and just tighten it down before i put it on the lathe. I like the idea with the grub screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Is that spline shaft ferrous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZekeB Posted July 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Been thinking about this all day. I thought about using a collet on the top cap but I want it to be low profile. I don't want to use some type of plastic on the inside. Didn't want the set screw to show and it needs to be functional. I've done something similar with a chess set piece I made. I know its a bit involved for a knob but I got time to kill and I think it will be pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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