ScottR Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Time to set the neck. First is laying out the template. I added a layer of tape t make it a mite tighter. That didn't work, The tape shredded. Never the less, I still got a good pocket. And went on to cutting some weight relief chambers. These are sort of modest since I do most of my weight relief carving from the outside. Note the tab at the end of the tenon. With long tapered tenons like this, you can set the neck a bit low and then push it back snugly into the pocket...and then add a plug to fill the gap. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 I thought I'd get far enough to glue on the top this weekend. But I spent more time getting to this point...enough that I needed about three more hours to be ready for that. Oh well. It takes what it takes. I did set the neck. And cut a close but not quite pocket in the top. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Looking mighty fine, old chap. I alway look at your logo and think it wouldn't look out of place stamped across a surfboard. You weren't a surfie in a past life perchance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Great work and coming along nicely. Quote: "Note the tab at the end of the tenon. With long tapered tenons like this, you can set the neck a bit low and then push it back snugly into the pocket...and then add a plug to fill the gap." I don't quite understand this @ScottR . Do you mean there's a taper in the pocket that you push the tapered neck onto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 wow, noice top. looking god. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 2 hours ago, Splintazert said: Great work and coming along nicely. Quote: "Note the tab at the end of the tenon. With long tapered tenons like this, you can set the neck a bit low and then push it back snugly into the pocket...and then add a plug to fill the gap." I don't quite understand this @ScottR . Do you mean there's a taper in the pocket that you push the tapered neck onto? I just spotted this too. Clever stuff. I'm told that similar techniques were used on roofs of many medeivil medeaivle medievil old cathedrals and halls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 11 hours ago, curtisa said: You weren't a surfie in a past life perchance? God, I hope so. I think I've missed the boat....er, board in this life. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 4 hours ago, Splintazert said: Great work and coming along nicely. Quote: "Note the tab at the end of the tenon. With long tapered tenons like this, you can set the neck a bit low and then push it back snugly into the pocket...and then add a plug to fill the gap." I don't quite understand this @ScottR . Do you mean there's a taper in the pocket that you push the tapered neck onto? Exactly. The tenon follows the taper of the neck. Routing the pocket just a bit long gives you plenty of room to get all the edges covered with glue, then you pull the neck back to snug everything up and close the gaps. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 3 hours ago, mistermikev said: wow, noice top. looking god. Thank you kind sir. I'm pretty chuffed about that top myself. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: I just spotted this too. Clever stuff. I'm told that similar techniques were used on roofs of many medeivil medeaivle medievil old cathedrals and halls. I'm not quite medieval yet Andy, but I seem to be getting closer to the threshold of old every day...er year. Thankfully the threshold of old seems to move out every year as well. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I rechecked the gluing surfaces for flatness and finessed the neck pocket of the top for a nice tight fit. This is more about looks than structure. The neck is deeply set already. The gap at the end of the fretboard will end up being part of the pickup route. I see that in the shot above, much of the figure looks symmetrical. And in the one one below, the figure flips at the center joint. This looks painful. Ahh....relief. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ScottR Posted June 18, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 The bridge is a strat type tremolo. I got that routed and the switch locations set. Also the control cavity and and insets for covers. SR 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck_Chill-Out Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Scott, after picking up my jaw from the floor AGAIN I wanted to ask you to what grit do you sand your fretboards? I sanded my persimmon to 1000 grit and had a slight polished finish, but nothing like what you have, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 49 minutes ago, Chuck_Chill-Out said: Scott, after picking up my jaw from the floor AGAIN I wanted to ask you to what grit do you sand your fretboards? I sanded my persimmon to 1000 grit and had a slight polished finish, but nothing like what you have, Cheers Chuck! I polish my fretboards......and pretty much everything else really, all the way through the micromesh grits up to 12000. I think 12000 would equate to about 3000-3500 in 3M type wet or dry sand paper. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 That's beautiful, Scott. Very neat work in all respects. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 On 5/7/2018 at 12:14 PM, Norris said: That's something I've been meaning to mention. It's easy enough to rename the file extension on a computer, but not so easy on a mobile phone. It doesn't help that WhatsApp saves pictures with a .jpeg extension either. @Prostheta ?... Oops. Missed this....fixed.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Thanks for the neck tenon explanation Scott, I was just a bit confused as this sliding nexk joint obviously dictates the bridge location and I thought that your tremolo routing might be affected. I guess we are only talking about a few millimetres of movement though (a few sixteenths!) and that route looks fairly accommodating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 55 minutes ago, Splintazert said: Thanks for the neck tenon explanation Scott, I was just a bit confused as this sliding nexk joint obviously dictates the bridge location and I thought that your tremolo routing might be affected. I guess we are only talking about a few millimetres of movement though (a few sixteenths!) and that route looks fairly accommodating. The trick is to set the neck (glue it in) before locating the bridge. I had its general location marked, but that cannot be finalized until the neck is set into its permanent location. Once that happens I take the measurements, locate the bridge and then route for the tremolo and drill for the posts. The thing I was more careful was where the end of the fretboard was going to end up in relation to the treble side cutaway. I want it close enough for easy access to the highest frets but not so close the neck pickup route runs off into the cutaway. The neck pickup will be butted up against the end of the fretboard. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck_Chill-Out Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 22 hours ago, ScottR said: Cheers Chuck! I polish my fretboards......and pretty much everything else really, all the way through the micromesh grits up to 12000. I think 12000 would equate to about 3000-3500 in 3M type wet or dry sand paper. SR Thanks, Scott. Now I know ANOTHER item I must purchase. That is one thing I really am working on with my build, the elimination of tool marks and scratches. I love seeing wood glow and shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 You'll do most of that in the 180-320 grit range. If you're diligent with sanding in the direction of the grain you can skip grits. 100, 120, 150, 180, 240 otherwise it's best going through each one individually to ensure you're not leaving lower grit scratches that higher grits will not remove. Tool marks are just big scratches. Nina is a goddess of sanding. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 I thought this weekend might end up being a bust. I got a call mid-week saying we were going to have unexpected (by me, anyway) visitors over the weekend. They ended up canceling at the last minute and I've got to say that feels like getting a get out of jail free card. So I got some work done after all. I sliced a piece of ash in half and made some cavity covers out of it. I inset some magnets and drilled the jack-hole while I was at it. Next I routed pickup cavities. Then I marked a line around the edge of the top and started carving to it. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 I roughed in the neck join and began shaping the back as well.And then continued the top carve. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 And then started cleaning up the mess. SR 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 7 hours ago, ScottR said: And then started cleaning up the mess. SR Every one of your carves is a wonder and a joy, @ScottR It beats me how quickly you seem to get from blank to rough carved to flawlessly smooth with continuous curves. If you take those three stages across the elapsed time of your gained free weekend, how many working hours does what we see in front of us actually represent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 6 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: It beats me how quickly you seem to get from blank to rough carved to flawlessly smooth with continuous curves. If you take those three stages across the elapsed time of your gained free weekend, how many working hours does what we see in front of us actually represent? Cheers Andy! I guess I gained (retained) about 15 hours of working time this weekend. I'd say about 9 hours passed from the time I made may first carving cut with the palm gouge to the time I stopped and took these pictures. Once the carving has removed bulk material, I rough sand with a right angle grinder and a flap disk and then a random orbital sander to do the bulk of the cleanup. After that it is hand work. A few builds back I had the idea to glue a sheet of .040" polycarb to one face of those foam sanding blocks that come with micromesh. That still allows it to be flexible enough to take care of all those compound curves and still hard enough to stop the ripples that want to show up when sanding figured woods like this curly maple. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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