Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 11 hours ago, Mr Natural said: which nordstrand p/u you going with? I have been extremely happy with his pickups- i have (2) dual coils- a shush puppy for bridge strat and a couple of 51P that are HUGE sounding. I am going to be getting a MM 4 pu when ever I get around to that project The dual coil NJ4 Alnico 3 set. The reviews of the NJ4 models seem pretty good. The Alnico 3 version is said to have the vintage vibe but with additional warmth. Ironically, I'm working on an acoustic bass that a commercial company have asked me to see if I can fix and that has a dual coil nordstrand jazz in the neck (not sure what model) which really isn't doing the business. I'm going to swop out with a pickup from one of my basses to see what happens, but I suspect the strings more than the pickup. It's 31.5" scale and 5 string - the bottom E and B are very floppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 Life is a bit crazy busy so I'm a bit out of date with the progress shots. I carved the pickup chambers using my preferred method of leaving the router until last, and then just to tidy up the bottoms: I drill my critical radii: Then forstner and chisel: Then tidy up with a fully captive short trimmer bit: Getting these done meant I could glue the fretboard on: And start the carve - not quite there but getting close: It looks quite conventional from the front, but this view hints at the weight saving (and upper fret access) approach: Looks like I'm on plan so far for the sub 6 3/4lb weight target 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 You've got a nice carve going there. And I'm really liking all that light wood with a few dark accents....which has caught me off guard a bit. I'm not normally a fan of blonde woods. Are these going to stay light or will your finishing plans darken them up a bit, or a lot? Your pickup cavity technique would lend itself to the making of a very nice template. I think you've shared that in previous builds as well, but I no longer remember why you do that every time, instead of just once for a template for each type of pickup you use. I do a number of things in my builds that most would choose other methods to accomplish, mostly for the simple reason that it makes the process more enjoyable to me. Mayhap this is the same for you. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 It's refreshing to see the different approaches that people take when making a guitar. It proves there is no one "right" way to do it, and the end result justifies the method. I think the key thing is to be able to visualise what you want and then choose a method that allows YOU to accomplish it Sorry, I'm getting a bit philosophical after drinking on a school night 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 12 hours ago, ScottR said: You've got a nice carve going there. And I'm really liking all that light wood with a few dark accents....which has caught me off guard a bit. I'm not normally a fan of blonde woods. Are these going to stay light or will your finishing plans darken them up a bit, or a lot? Your pickup cavity technique would lend itself to the making of a very nice template. I think you've shared that in previous builds as well, but I no longer remember why you do that every time, instead of just once for a template for each type of pickup you use. I do a number of things in my builds that most would choose other methods to accomplish, mostly for the simple reason that it makes the process more enjoyable to me. Mayhap this is the same for you. SR It will be unstained but it will darken with the finish. This is closer to the finished colour: The dark bits are, of course, presently holes. I need to check with Neil if he wants them left as holes or filled with epoxy/dark wood dust. One of the reasons that I don't use templates for pickups is not only my intense dislike of routers, but also that in the world of jazz-type bass pickup makers, there appears to be no understanding of 'standardisation'. Even the Nordstrands - - which appear to be two equal size covers...there is a 1mm centre to centre difference in the fixing lug positions!!!! So nowadays for jazz-type bass pickups of any source (not even Fender's own are all the same size!) I get them in my hands first and then hand fit them - every time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Did a bit more carving of the body and now just started the neck carve. Ref the body, it's ready for the final sanding. I usually give it a quick coat of tru-oil to show up any glue residue or tooking scratches, etc.. Gives a reasonable idea of what the finished look is going to be: I've also started the rough carve of the neck: It's looking like I might get close to the 6 1/2lbs mark finished weight! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Looking good Andy. There's some nice figure in that top. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Doing the neck is best done outside for me if possible - more room than in my very small cellar space. And much more light! I took this shot to show my grandchildren when/if that time comes. They will already be eye-rollingly bored at grandpa's endless tales of 'when I used to build bass guitars', but will, I'm sure, point at this picture with wonder. "Oooooh. What's that bright bit, grandpa?" "It's called sunshine, Billy" "What's sunshine, grandpa?" "Well - if you wait until you are a BIG boy...and then wait some more until you are a MAN...and then wait some more until you are an OLD MAN... and all the time hope and hope and hope - you too might see something like that!" "What - in ENGLAND, grandpa???????" Anyway - the main neck carve. Once it's been roughed out, I do almost all of the rest of the carve with a humble cabinet scraper: Using the templates from Neil's favourite bass, I crept up on the shape. Here, the haunches are standing proud: This is better! A little while later, it's getting close: Nice thing about the through neck and scooped back is that the neck/body transition can be just that touch more elegant than some...: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Over here it is common for our patio tables to have a hole in the center whereby the shaft of the patio umbrella fits therein, thus centering the umbrella over the table. I'm shocked to see, that in Merry Old England the umbrellas are felt to be better utilized separate from the table, so that they may be moved all about the yard providing that much needed protection from the sun...that one day every half century that you'd have your grandchildren believe it actually makes an appearance. Apropos of nothing what-so-ever, my son has been known to spin some tall tales to see how much of it he can get his lovely bride to believe. When she finally realizes that the story is approaching fantastic dimensions, she'll look at him suspiciously and ask him, Are you grampsin' me? I wonder where that colorful expression came from. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 Coming along nicely Andy, that top looks great too. Lol, for info @ScottR it's 30 Celsius (86 F) in my UK office at the moment, and we seem to be in the middle of a run of fantastic weather. Plus, I just checked and I have a hole in the middle of my patio table! The parasol is further down the garden though over my outdoor workbench... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 7 minutes ago, Splintazert said: Coming along nicely Andy, that top looks great too. Lol, for info @ScottR it's 30 Celsius (86 F) in my UK office at the moment, and we seem to be in the middle of a run of fantastic weather. Plus, I just checked and I have a hole in the middle of my patio table! The parasol is further down the garden though over my outdoor workbench... That is pretty warm inside your office. My folks would be screaming for the air conditioner to be fixed. It sounds like your outdoor shop is laid out much like @Andyjr1515's I suspect that there will be an accounting for that run of nice weather to look forward to later in the year. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 I've got to the stage on this build where I've been able to write the 'things to finish off' list! It's admittedly a long list but at least there is an end in sight! So to catch up on things done: Back hatch cut from an offcut of the top wood Headstock plate cut from the same offcut, ebony truss-rod cover, NZ Paua swift inlays Volute carved up to final sanding stage And the knobs. Same approach as my last build. I did 3 concurrent drills on some veneered swamp ash offcut: ...which gave me the back ...then added some poplar burl offcut discs on top, inserted grub-screw bush and access hole, added a paua 2mm dot and sanded. Barring a couple more coats of finish, these are pretty much done: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Nice, the headstock looks tiny in that second photo. Very cool knobs. It's the little things... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 3 minutes ago, Splintazert said: Nice, the headstock looks tiny in that second photo. Actually, compared with some I've done, it's a whopper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Wow, so YOU started the headless trend then? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Hmmm - although I was very pleased with the knobs by themselves, I was bothered that they would actually detract from the bookmatching of the top once they were in place. See what I mean? Personally, my eye is drawn to the knobs first. So I made another set - using the plainer area of poplar offcut that I used for the headstock plate: To my own eye, this works better. I'll actually fit these but give Neil the other set too in case he wants to use them instead As you see, I also sorted the position of the bridge and drilled the fixing holes. This allowed me to then do the routing to set the bridge at its final level. I scored the outline, used a 5mm drill for the rounded corners, a Dremel precision router base to hog out the bulk and finished the edges with chisels: Nice snug fit that looks like it's meant to be there rather than just plonked on top: Finally, I scored the 'flush level' line so that I know how much is exposed when I do the final top curve sand tomorrow: The plan is to start the top of the base-plate flush at the centre leading edge and progressively expose the 2mm thickness towards the sides and the back. Well - that's the plan anyway! And tomorrow is indeed the final sanding day with Osmo finishing starting at the weekend. Can't wait Finished weight, to within an ounce either way, is going to be 6lbs 6oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splintazert Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Very nice. I actually see what you mean about those knobs although I'm sure many others would think that it's overkill. Think I'm with you on keeping the set in the second pic. What bridge is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 The original set of knobs didn't bother me at all, they appear to be camouflaged. As far as a detraction from the book-match, the look to be in the space occupied by the F-hole on the other side, so no problem for me along those lines either. Both sets blend in to my eye. I'm sure Neil will appreciate your thoughtfulness at giving him two sets to choose from. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 3 hours ago, Splintazert said: Very nice. I actually see what you mean about those knobs although I'm sure many others would think that it's overkill. Think I'm with you on keeping the set in the second pic. What bridge is that? It's a Schaller Bass Bridge 2000. Nice and straightforward but with added advantage of adjustable string spacing. I worked recently on a 5 string Shuker bass and was interested that it had this series fitted too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 With a morning's sanding, the bridge is now flush: ...and the body is ready for finishing: There was a feature in the wood that reminded me of a bird's wing shape. Not entirely sure it works, but I emulated that with the fretboard end carve: Unless I'm sensitive about colour, I generally now use the tru-oil slurry and wipe for all of my initial sealing and grain fill, regardless of the final finish (in this case Osmo Polyx Satin. Here it is after the first couple of slurries: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Ohhh nice! SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 The finishing is pretty much done and will harden over the coming week. During that time I will do the magnets for the covers, the fret dressing and electrics. While I've had issues in the past with the gloss version, the satin version of Osmo Polyx is super easy to apply (wiped on with a lint free cloth) and produces a very pleasing finish very quickly. Once it's fully hardened, it is also very tough. Here's how it's looking: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 That's a really nice looking satin, Andy. I kind of want to touch it. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Have spent most of the day on this and so, so, so nearly finished...but knackered, so the final 3 smallish jobs will have to wait until tomorrow Cleaned up and finished the fretboard and levelled and crowned the frets: Then installed the pickups (taking great care not to screw the fixing screws all the way through the slim back! And shielded the control chamber and strung it up to check the action and intonation ranges. Electrics are all in and shielded but not yet wired up (a simple master vol, blend and master tone) and I still have to install the magnets for the truss rod and control chamber covers. Tomorrow morning should see this fully finished. Here's a sneak preview: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Just two more small jobs to do - fitting the strap buttons and soldering up the three pots. In the meantime - as we have had an unprecedented and very welcome stretch of sunny days (yes - really!) and actually slightly overcast is easier for me to take natural light photos, I've taken advantage of some light cloud to take the arty-f**ty shots Here we go: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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