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Entry for September 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!
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Welcome to the Guitar Of The Month entry for January 20189!

ProjectGuitar.com's Guitar Of The Month contest is a showcase for members to exhibit their creations and to vote on their favourites. The contest is open entry for any and all members, new or old. Winner(s) receive a featured article at the head of the ProjectGuitar.com homepage and elevated member status. ProjectGuitar.com receives tens of thousands of unique visitors monthly; Guitar Of The Month is a great way to showcase your creations to the world!

Submissions are open throughout the month with public voting open in the last week. Polls close on the first weekend of each month.

Lastly, if you didn't win a previous month's Guitar Of The Month contest, you are encouraged to enter your build again the next month for a maximum of three consecutive months. Sometimes one entry just hits it out of the park and eclipses everything!

Tips and Guidelines

  • Upload a maximum of eight photos for the instrument in your post
  • Ensure that your guitar has a name otherwise we'll make one up 😉
  • List additional descriptive information specific to the build; for example....
    • The woods and materials used, especially if there is something unusual in there!
    • Scale length(s) and other specific configuration details
    • Electronics, pickups, etc.
    • Is this your first build, fifth or five-hundredth?
    • A bit of information on your own background as a builder helps give context to your build.
    • Was it built in the garage, at school, work or in your own shop?
    • A summary of the build's history. Was it built for yourself, friend/family or a client? Did you design the instrument and its specifications or was it built to spec?
    • What were the inspirations behind the instrument and why were various build aspects chosen?
    • Any background on what makes it special?
  • Posting a link to your guitar-building website, Photobucket, Facebook, etc. is fine, even if it is your business. In the spirit of fairness towards less experienced builders, we encourage professional builders to consider whether their entries constitute being "fair".
    • Commercial "standard" models are not a valid entry, guys....Guitar Of The Month is about unique and characterful builds, not rubber-stamped production units!
  • We reserve the right to pull entries that are thinly-guised adverts; ProjectGuitar.com is about community, sharing build processes and the exchange of ideas - not a vehicle for adverts by members that don't engage with the community.
  • If you documented your build in the forums, post a link to the thread; instruments with a build thread shared tend to attract more votes from the general community. In our experience this is the biggest attractor of votes.
  • ProTip: Voters vote with their ears as well as their eyes....if you have any soundclips of the instrument or even a YouTube video, do post it! Everybody loves to look at beautiful instruments, but hearing them demo'ed is 10x as important.

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Unsure what to write? Have a look around the entry archives for suggestions!

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If you have any questions about the contest, either PM me or ask forum members; we're a helpful bunch!

This thread is exclusively for entry posts only - any post that is not an entry will be deleted. We love to hear your discussions and opinions on the month's entries whilst the polls are open. Alternatively, head over to that instrument's build thread if one has been made in the entry post.

Good luck to all entrants!

:crowdwaits:

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Here we go. Big thanks to the projectguitar family for helping me through it.  This is the Mako I

  • Wood - Honduras mahogany body, figured maple top, macassar ebony fretboard
  • Scale Length - 25.5"
  • Compound Radius - 12"-15.6" 
  • Pickups - Tom Anderson pickups H2, SF, SFR (neck)
  • 10 position Freeway Blade switch
  • Master Volume & Tone Pots
  • Push/Pull volume pot to act as a kill switch (standby switch)
  • Schaller Non-Tremelo Bridge

This is my 1st build.  I've done other wood work but nothing to this scale.  Spent about a year reading, researching, and designing before going after it.  I built it in my garage starting with a few tools.  As it progressed I accumulated more and tried different things before moving forward.  Some worked, some really didn't, haha.  

I had an idea of what it was going to be and I didn't think I would break from that plan but I was pleasantly surprised it changed it so much.  As I built it kind of took on its own character and I just went with it.  It definitely took longer to change things but on the artistic side its a lot more pleasing to let the design take its own course.   The other element was how it played. I'm much more a musician than a luthier and I'm really happy how well that turned out.  Sounds nice and smooth with plenty of ringing sustain, some great flexibility, and low consistent action.

The original idea was to take all the elements I love from other guitars and make something unique with all those variables.  I feel I was pretty successful in that regard.  I really enjoyed the whole process and this definitely won't be my last build.

Thanks!

 

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'66 Korina Super Sport

Of course the date is fictional, except it was the year -I- was manufactured and the touchstone for this guitars aesthetic. My goal was a vintage looking and very modern playing muscle car of a guitar. As a player it is easily my favorite, with the wood combo it has sustain for days, and action is fast. Bridge tones are thick and edgy, cleans sound super chimey on either pickup but the center position is amazing. 

25” scale

Korina / white limba body

Pau Ferro neck with Macassar ebony fretboard and MOP dots

Gotoh tremolo and tuners

Seymour Duncan SH-11 bridge pickup, A2 14k, added nickel cover

Seymour Duncan Black Winter neck pickup, ceramic 16k parallel, added custom nickel cover

Volume and tone, both pickups have split switch, the bridge also pulls some low-end from the second coil and retains most humbucking. Switches are Honeywell 6AT2 SPDT used in military aircraft. $90 minis! (these were $5 used on ebay). Toggle has custom smoke / fire plate. CTS pots are sporting oxblood “Klon” knobs on them.

The finish is nitro, the body was put in a deep freezer for a few days then pulled into a warm room to produce crazing and checking.

The hardware was all new and shiny, it was dinged and rubbed with steel wool and sandpaper, and fumed with muratic acid to produce a heavy relic finish. Neither the clear nitro or hardware was intended to look like a naturally aged instrument but more of a fictitious barn find. I do not have to worry about scratching this one as it only gets better!

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Build thread:

 

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The Skelecaster

 

All wenge body and neck, with maple veneer accents in the neck.

Flame maple top and rosewood fretboard.

25.5 scale

Bareknuckle blackgaurd 55 stagger pickups

Chambered body with "skull" F-hole

Evertune bridge, hipshot open back locking tuners

 

I've always wanted to build a tele, but never liked the idea of a standard looking one. For this design I tried to think of some things that i have not seen before, yet keep all the basic themes of what makes a tele a tele. The one integral part of a tele that I omitted would be the bolt on construction. I really like the heel access on a set neck/neck thru and decided to try that out with this guitar and see how much of a difference in tone it would make. To me, it still spanks like a tele should spank and twangs like a tele should twang. 

 

Thanks! 

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