mistermikev Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 4 hours ago, ADFinlayson said: I've been on that site actually and had a look when I was wiring up the wenge build because I wanted to do the above just with SD pickups where the wiring is different, I ended up binning off the idea altogether as I couldn't find a schematic for it. But I see that PRS have republished their schematics online - the had conveniently taken them down when I was wiring that one. Found this though: https://www.prsguitars.com/documents/customs_2017.pdf I think PRS have been wiring their CU22s and 24s like this for a few years now. right on... sounds like you're all set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 12 hours ago, mistermikev said: right on... sounds like you're all set. Cheers dude, wiring is certainly not an area of building that I excel in so I will definitely be asking if I get stuck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 22 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: Cheers dude, wiring is certainly not an area of building that I excel in so I will definitely be asking if I get stuck happy to help if I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Last night i sorted out my control cover, using magnets again, I tapped in some pins then cut the heads of them. That way I could push the cover down and mark the spots where the magnets would go before drilling a load of holes and sticking them down with super glue. Then with the magnets holding it in place, I planed the cover flush with a block plane. Then I finished the blade slot today. I routed the underside of the cavity to expose the slot I chiselled out and it worked first time with the caveat that this is a finder 5-way super switch and PRS style ebony switch tip that was never going to fit so I had to file down the blade until it fitted. Now I've got started on carving the top. After roughing it all out with a gouge, I used my smallest thumb plane to knock off all the high spots, but I've gone as far as I can with that. Lots of work to do with mini scrapers now because the carved areas are just too small to get the orbital sander in there. Starting to see some nice flames though Oh I also tidied up the neck pickup route (believe it or not). I used a 1/4" straight bit as that's all I have, with the shaft running straight up against the template, got it as close to the right shape as I could but the mdf template started to turn to smoosh so I left it at that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 looks great man. i like that little s scraper... gonna have to git me one of dem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 8 hours ago, mistermikev said: looks great man. i like that little s scraper... gonna have to git me one of dem! I love scrapers too, I'm just rubbish at sharpening them! It's one of the things I really struggle with, watched several youtube vids on sharpening them but just don't seem to be able to get a good edge on them. These curved ones are especially awkward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 54 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: I love scrapers too, I'm just rubbish at sharpening them! It's one of the things I really struggle with, watched several youtube vids on sharpening them but just don't seem to be able to get a good edge on them. These curved ones are especially awkward haven't even tried... just figured I'd have to buy new ones when i get to that point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FINEFUZZ Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 This is going to turn out real pretty! By the way, old jointer blades make fantastic (flat) scrapers. We switched to helical so we had a pile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 9 hours ago, ADFinlayson said: I love scrapers too, I'm just rubbish at sharpening them! It's one of the things I really struggle with, watched several youtube vids on sharpening them but just don't seem to be able to get a good edge on them. These curved ones are especially awkward Try to find an Arno Carbur2 burnishing tool. Nothing else puts a hook on a scraper like it. Not cheap, but will save you hours! Lovely Build btw. I'm also admiring your little "S" scraper - I thought it was an inlay you hadn't told us about at first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Norris said: Try to find an Arno Carbur2 burnishing tool. Nothing else puts a hook on a scraper like it. Not cheap, but will save you hours! Lovely Build btw. I'm also admiring your little "S" scraper - I thought it was an inlay you hadn't told us about at first Haha it would make a pretty slick f hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 2 hours ago, Norris said: I'm also admiring your little "S" scraper - I thought it was an inlay you hadn't told us about at first I thought the same thing. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 Sir Ash, it's amazing to see how you've progressed in such a short time! Wasn't it just yesterday when you asked for advise about this and that, now you're the source of inspiration for all of us?! As for burnishing scrapers, how about a knife sharpener? One of those that come with a 15 money kitchen knife set or just a few coins alone? If they work for stainless steel knives they should as well work for scrapers, I suppose. Maybe a little long but an angle grinder can take care of that if needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 25 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Sir Ash, it's amazing to see how you've progressed in such a short time! Wasn't it just yesterday when you asked for advise about this and that, now you're the source of inspiration for all of us?! As for burnishing scrapers, how about a knife sharpener? One of those that come with a 15 money kitchen knife set or just a few coins alone? If they work for stainless steel knives they should as well work for scrapers, I suppose. Maybe a little long but an angle grinder can take care of that if needed. Yep it was only just over a year ago that you’re advice was helping make my first guitar neck. Thank you for your kind words. As for scrapers, I found a couple of good videos where it’s explained, not a crimson video for once. And I’ve successfulky sharpened all my cabinets scrapers, I’ve had some success with the kindness scraper but it’s definately a lot harder to get a good edge on those! When I’m at my computer, I’ll find the link and share Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 Back on to Ollie's V and making progress with the inlay. I gave up on the initial design, the little wooden branches kept breaking when I was cutting them, to the point that they were more super glue than walnut, so I've come up with a new design. When I was sketching, I was envisaging something between an Ork and dead Terminator I've cut the large pieces* out of white mop, smaller details are going to be done with some course and fine crushed MOP. Then the super fine details by subtracting from the bigger pieces by scratching and filling with ebony dust and superglue, the eyes will be 2mm mop dots, then 4mm dots for the rest of the fret markers. *When I say large pieces, none of the pieces are large, it's feckin' awkward Anyway, I've started to inlay the large pieces with coloured epoxy. It's slow work and I think this is going to be one of those jobs that looks like a dogs dinner until it's done, but should look fairly 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 Managed to get a couple more pieces glued in last night. It’s still not looking very skull-like but my confidence is improving. I did however underestimate how much of a ball ache it would be to saw through the mop to remake the fret slot, so I sawed the first piece before sticking the other 2 in. Im wondering whether it would be wise to make the slot a bit wider where the mop is so that hammering the frets in doesn’t run the risk of cracking the inlay, but also concerned that there needs to be enough material there to hold the tangs in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 that's going to be a beauty. nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 6 hours ago, mistermikev said: that's going to be a beauty. nice work. Cheers bud Got the last bit glued in. The jaw line is slightly lower when compared to the sketch, but I think if it isn't the bottom teeth will be lost under the 13th fret so I'm calling it a happy accident. Next up I'll need to file the pieces as flush as I can then fill all of the gaps with ebony dust and CA before doing the eyes, shadowy outline on the left hand side and the bottom jaw (crushed mop). Then it should start looking a bit more skull-like. Then I'll have to scratch away to make the cracks and make the teeth look a bit more realistic. Getting there though! This project has got me thinking a little lazer cutting machine might be a worthwhile investment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 love it. it's on my todo list to try something like this as I spose that's the only way you learn. thanks for being inspirational. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 12 hours ago, mistermikev said: love it. it's on my todo list to try something like this as I spose that's the only way you learn. thanks for being inspirational. Thanks bud. I have to say I've found inlay work to be among the most intimidating of jobs in guitar building (once the basics of building have been mastered anyway). I've put this inlay off for so long that I've got 1.5 guitars built in the meantime. But as with anything, the best way to learn it is to get jet on and get it done. Worst case scenario if it all goes wrong, the inlays can be dug out and replaced with something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 right on and tru dat. I did some afa my logo... and was surprised at how easy it was to get my meager results afa cutting the mop. That said, cutting the area to place it in is a dif story, and i've only done that on ebony which is pretty forgiving. def have lots of opportunity to improve there so will do. b4 I do it next time... I'm going to try to build/modify my own dremel base for it. I don't really like anything I can buy (or have bought) so that's my horizon. biggest issue seems to be getting light in the right area while the router is there... so I plan to use some plexi and flat leds. anywho, again... lookin good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 1 hour ago, mistermikev said: right on and tru dat. I did some afa my logo... and was surprised at how easy it was to get my meager results afa cutting the mop. That said, cutting the area to place it in is a dif story, and i've only done that on ebony which is pretty forgiving. def have lots of opportunity to improve there so will do. b4 I do it next time... I'm going to try to build/modify my own dremel base for it. I don't really like anything I can buy (or have bought) so that's my horizon. biggest issue seems to be getting light in the right area while the router is there... so I plan to use some plexi and flat leds. anywho, again... lookin good. I've never even used a router for inlay cavities, the hardwork is getting the outline accurate and true which is a hand chisel job anyway, hogging out the material in the middle, yeah it takes a little bit longer with a chisel than with a router, but it doesn't take long. But you're right, I find lighting where the bit is is always an issue. Would be cool if they could design them with a bulb pointing at the work when active like most hand drills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 20 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: I've never even used a router for inlay cavities, the hardwork is getting the outline accurate and true which is a hand chisel job anyway, hogging out the material in the middle, yeah it takes a little bit longer with a chisel than with a router, but it doesn't take long. But you're right, I find lighting where the bit is is always an issue. Would be cool if they could design them with a bulb pointing at the work when active like most hand drills. well, for the bigger routers they kinda do. the rigid ones and a few others have leds built into the base. that said... it's pretty easy to wire up an led or two to a resistor/battery. I've spent a lot of time doing 'light bases' for pedals and the sm thing would work wonders here. you file down an led right up to the diode itself to give it a flat head, epoxy it directly to lexan, wire up a resistor and then to the battery. This lights up the entire lexan as the led will refract all over the place and thru it. I've seen some make led base for routers... using a watch battery clip that you can buy from tayda and others. I plan to do much the sm. get a water clear high brightness led, and epoxy that and a battery enclosure to the lexan, wire it up to a momentary on the tip of a handle so it's only on when you press it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Another hour or so spent on it last night working on the details, I think I'm ready to call it done. It's not identical to my original drawing but I've surprised myself with how close I've managed to get it, not that it matters given that it was drawn by me, so you lot are the only ones that know what it was supposed to look like I know Ollie will love it anyway, Will get the dot inlays in tonight and hopefully frets in later in the week 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 3 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: Another hour or so spent on it last night working on the details, I think I'm ready to call it done. It's not identical to my original drawing but I've surprised myself with how close I've managed to get it, not that it matters given that it was drawn by me, so you lot are the only ones that know what it was supposed to look like I know Ollie will love it anyway, Will get the dot inlays in tonight and hopefully frets in later in the week Wow! To be honest, if anything it's better than the original drawing. The shading effect of the darker shell is very effective. Top class! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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