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The Black Queen


komodo

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It did not pass the “you can sit down and play it without losing ribs” test. So, quick plastic surgery and it’s great now. 

I spent a lot of today fine tuning the tuner holes with their little locator pins, refining the neck heel and final neck angle. After placing the tuners I realized that I made the headstock too thick after putting the veneer on. So I need to thin that somehow. Then I’ll glue in the neck. When I get some better weather I’ll do final clear coats. In the meantime, electrics.

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I decided to inset the washer and nut instead of shaving off 1/16” off the face. But, cutting a larger hole into tuner holes is nearly impossible unless you have some kind of special ledge cutting bit? Or some trick I don’t know about but that you will tell me about now that I’ve already done this?

Tell me how you would do it, then I’ll post the trick I came up with.

BYW- The Dogfishhead Hazy Ripple is sublime, and I’m no Dead fan.

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4 hours ago, komodo said:

some kind of special ledge cutting bit

A step drill could work if the subsequent steps match the diameters of the original hole and the washer. It can also be run backwards if the wood is brittle.

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It's all about centering the bit. The washer recess is done with a Forstner bit, then subsequent work centred from the spur recess in the centre left by the Forstner. Usually a lip and spur/brad point bit will not centre itself in those as they're too deep. A step drill will however. That way it can be opened out to (usually) 10mm or whatever. A step drill is like a twist drill in that it shears waste to the outside of the cut, making them liable to poor cosmetic cuts. Brad point are better in that they shear inwards. 

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If I was at that stage.I would chuck up the original bit to make the holes and use that to locate the headstock on the drill press. When that is done clamp the HS in place and make sure the original bit still travels freely through the hole. Then without moving anything take out the original bit and replace with your forstner bit.

Rinse and repeat.

SR

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14 minutes ago, ScottR said:

If I was at that stage.I would chuck up the original bit to make the holes and use that to locate the headstock on the drill press. When that is done clamp the HS in place and make sure the original bit still travels freely through the hole. Then without moving anything take out the original bit and replace with your forstner bit.

 

This woulda been my second plan. But because of the way a larger bit can grab ebony, I feared for my life. lol 

Of course cutting the ledge first is trivial, this was all about cutting it after the main hole had been drilled. @mattharris75 won instantly. BTW, I'm not totally done yet, I'm going to shave the face down ever so slightly to flush the face and washers. I'm definitely in the home stretch now. I can tell because my mind is all over two other builds while I'm doing this final bits.

@ScottR You prodded me with your single coil / p90 comment. I started looking at single coils, but ended up getting a stacked p90 to use in the bridge, so it can be run stacked or split.

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21 minutes ago, komodo said:

But because of the way a larger bit can grab ebony, I feared for my life. lol 

I have only attempted that once, and ended up sanding them completely out.

 

27 minutes ago, komodo said:

You prodded me with your single coil / p90 comment. I started looking at single coils, but ended up getting a stacked p90 to use in the bridge, so it can be run stacked or split.

I wish you could hear the way mine sounds, but I just don't have a way to share that these days.

SR

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Got some heavy coats on it. Also got my first runs, very small and on the side, so no biggie. My first gnats too. I always push really hard and lay it on thick and way faster than Dan Erlewine will tell you but I’ve never had issues. One thing I do that helps the end result is a final coat with 50:50 or even less. The solvent just hammers the surface and lets it flow out really nicely.

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3 hours ago, willliam_q said:

Guitar looks great.  Do you use tag board or pcb for your pedals? 

Thanks!

I use tag board, and most of what I’ve built has been from tagboardfx. The insides look like robot vomit, but still work great.

Last week I ran across a site with PCB boards and several pedals built around the Spin FV-1 chip. (pedalpcb.com) I’m definitely going to try out some of those.

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Looking great 

But I'm curious... how is the rear cover attached to the neck? Is it there so you don't forget to finish it as well as the body? I've already lost count of the times I've had to wrestle my sweaty gloves back on because I forgot to put another coat on the cover :D

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33 minutes ago, Norris said:

Looking great 

But I'm curious... how is the rear cover attached to the neck? Is it there so you don't forget to finish it as well as the body? I've already lost count of the times I've had to wrestle my sweaty gloves back on because I forgot to put another coat on the cover :D

Thanks! LOL, i just rolled up a couple pieces of tape into loops and stuck it on there. I KEEP FORGETTING TO SPRAY THE COVER. Also, sometimes I get in a whirlwind and just lay the cover down on a piece of cardboard or something and when I hit it with the gun . . . whoosh there it goes out into the yard upside down. This worked perfectly, I highly recommend it. I'm going to patent it.

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