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mistermikev

reasonably priced 1/16 cut 1/8 shank inlay bits... are these good?

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I know I know... stew mac, but after shipping it is just too painful.  So I've been lurking on banjo sites (full disclosure - do not tell my therapist) and have come up with the following possibilities... altho I'm guessing for some reason you are going to tell me to go to stew mac... maybe not?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-1-16-0625-CARBIDE-2-FLUTE-ENDMILLS-DOWNCUT-PLASTIC-WOOD-1650-0625-250/153117509130

 

now I have never met a bur I've liked (other than raymond) but these look an awful lot like what stew mac sells:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/lynx-square-cross-cut-burs-set-of-10/348910

 

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I'd go with the endmills. You can often find the same things StewMac sells elsewhere.

SR

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thank you @ScottR i don't know if everyone here appreciates how much of a resource you are.  Always quick to answer my questions and I very much want to thank you for that.

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19 hours ago, mistermikev said:

altho I'm guessing for some reason you are going to tell me to go to stew mac... maybe not?

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-1-16-0625-CARBIDE-2-FLUTE-ENDMILLS-DOWNCUT-PLASTIC-WOOD-1650-0625-250/153117509130

I buy the majority of my CNC endmills from this eBay seller and can vouch for the quality of the Kyocera bits he offers.

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19 hours ago, mistermikev said:

now I have never met a bur I've liked (other than raymond) but these look an awful lot like what stew mac sells:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/lynx-square-cross-cut-burs-set-of-10/348910

AFAIK Stewmac doesn't sell micro burrs. Not sure I'd want to use them for anything other than quick material removal, in which case you'd probably just use a larger 2-flute carbide endmill anyway. Anything requiring even more material removal I'd probably just use a chisel and save the really tiny endmill work for the edges and corners of the cuts.

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nice to hear from you curtisa.  on sm they list these as router bits, but they look an aweful lot like a burr to my untrained eye... is there a dif?

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Straight_Router_Bits.html

 

I'm trying to use this for my logo inlay and it's got really thin lines - probably 3/32.  me with a chisel trying to do that... reminds me of a saying my dad had "like picking bird-sh1t out of coo-coo-clocks with boxing gloves on".  hehe

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41 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Those look like a fluted burr to me.

SR

ok, so they are a bit dif then, I guess?  Prob doesn't matter, either way I'm going for the endmills just wondered if they were worth getting as well.  I imagine these would be nice for cutting the pearl itself... but I do that w a jewelers saw anyway.

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5 hours ago, mistermikev said:

nice to hear from you curtisa.  on sm they list these as router bits, but they look an aweful lot like a burr to my untrained eye... is there a dif?

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Straight_Router_Bits.html

I stand corrected. I'm still not sure I'd trust a bur for super accurate and delicate routing. Maybe for quick and dirty hogging out (on a relatively small scale) but not for the final cuts, where fractions of a millimetre mean the difference between the perfect fit and use of filler to hide the gap.

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34 minutes ago, curtisa said:

I stand corrected. I'm still not sure I'd trust a bur for super accurate and delicate routing. Maybe for quick and dirty hogging out (on a relatively small scale) but not for the final cuts, where fractions of a millimetre mean the difference between the perfect fit and use of filler to hide the gap.

def seems like good advice.  my one experience with them trying to cut out f holes for a practice amp did not go well.  just burned it for the most part so gave up on it quick.  def going the end mill rout just saw that and thought somebody must be using them!

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I had a quick look through my current build thread and realised I'd not shown the bits I used for my inlay. Being in the UK they are metric, but these look close to what you are looking at

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0757M9FDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The shank is approx 3mm to fit in my Dremel, with a 1mm cut

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2 hours ago, Norris said:

I had a quick look through my current build thread and realised I'd not shown the bits I used for my inlay. Being in the UK they are metric, but these look close to what you are looking at

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0757M9FDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The shank is approx 3mm to fit in my Dremel, with a 1mm cut

love the sound of 'corn teeth'!  titanium corn teeth to boot!  thanks you for the link!

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I did order from the recommendation above and got them a few days ago.  haven't used them yet. 

the ones you linked would be a nice set to have to fill things out tho.  will have to snag that next time I'm over there. thanks for the heads up.

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Having used them a bit more now, the end mills I linked are much better at plunge cutting in solid material than actual routing. My current technique is to plunge cut with the end mills like you would with a forstener bit, then trim round the edges like you would with a router

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haven't used the ones that @curtisa endorsed yet but got them and a few other things -very fast- from that ebay user.  Will report when I've had a chance to try them out. 

fwiw... that ebay seller also sells "yonico" bits that -while they aren't whiteside- are the best I've used in that price range.  as good as the freud bits I have and much cheaper - use them anytime I need to work on mdf or rough things for the most part fyi.

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btw tried the bits this weekend... they work great.  still need something a bit smaller... thought 1/16 would do it but it's just a hair too thick so will test out the harbor freight stuff next.

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