ADFinlayson Posted April 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 Sealed! Need to scrape the faux binding and do a bit of touch up sanding on the sides before sealing back and sides. Iām now REALLY excited about this build 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 OOft.. I like ths one. Deffinatley the kind of thing i aspire to 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Also got the binding scraped and sanded once the sealer had dried. Makes such a difference! I need to seal the back and sides of the body now, which I'm planning to use the brush on sealer for as there is no stain to worry about. The thing I'm not sure about now is how to tackle the neck, specifically the edge of the fretboard that sits on the body. I'm planning to oil the neck -Ā I don't want to get poly on the fretboard, yet I also don't want to get oil on the top. Should I just pol the edge of the fretboard up until the end of the body? Any advice appreciated! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Is that a prs style faux binding? what technique did you use to acheive that? Just a thought but if the question is keeping oil off the edge of a the fretboard while oiling the neck. Would perhaps brushing on liquid wax or similar maybe do the job of stoping the oil penetrating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 4 minutes ago, Urumiko said: Is that a prs style faux binding? what technique did you use to acheive that? Just a thought but if the question is keeping oil off the edge of a the fretboard while oiling the neck. Would perhaps brushing on liquid wax or similar maybe do the job of stoping the oil penetrating? Yes that is the side of the maple cap (faux binding). This piece just isn't particularly flamy at the edge so it isn't highly figured faux binding like your average prsĀ - after sealing the colour into the top, I scrapped over the edge of the top with a razor blade to give the crisp line and lightly sanded the edge to tidy up any stain spillover. I perhaps didn't explain very well, I'm intending to oil the neck and the edge of the fretboard, which means for consistency I'll want to oil the edge of the fretboard where the where the fretboard overlaps the body also but not get oil on the body as the body will have a clearcoat poly. I guess the answer is to poly the body first, then oil the neck then any oil should be removed when I'm sanding back the poly... we'll see, a bit of trial and error never hurt anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 I like the colour you've got there! Ref the oil and poly, just judicious use of decent quality masking tape?Ā 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 2 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: I like the colour you've got there! Ref the oil and poly, just judicious use of decent quality masking tape?Ā You're probably right and I'm probably overthinking it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Your plan doing the poly first sounds viable. Oil shouldn't stick to poly, nor go beneath it to push it off. Use masking tape as Andy said to protect the areas to be oiled. And if you get poly in a wrong place you should be able to scrape it off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 51 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: Also got the binding scraped and sanded once the sealer had dried. Makes such a difference! I need to seal the back and sides of the body now, which I'm planning to use the brush on sealer for as there is no stain to worry about. The thing I'm not sure about now is how to tackle the neck, specifically the edge of the fretboard that sits on the body. I'm planning to oil the neck -Ā I don't want to get poly on the fretboard, yet I also don't want to get oil on the top. Should I just pol the edge of the fretboard up until the end of the body? Any advice appreciated! totally thought this was regular binding... but read that it is faux (prs style)?Ā Can't believe it.Ā looks like white binding.Ā looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 3 hours ago, mistermikev said: totally thought this was regular binding... but read that it is faux (prs style)?Ā Can't believe it.Ā looks like white binding.Ā looking good! Must just look pale in contrast with the top, no doubt it will yellow a bit once it's got some finish on! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 21 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: Must just look pale in contrast with the top, no doubt it will yellow a bit once it's got some finish on! shucks... I was looking fwd to giving you a hard time all "a prs with actual binding... tsk tsk", now you've ruined my fun!Ā should have known a true prs expert wouldn't do that.Ā shame on me!Ā that red against white/natural looks great.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 40 minutes ago, mistermikev said: shucks... I was looking fwd to giving you a hard time all "a prs with actual binding... tsk tsk", now you've ruined my fun!Ā should have known a true prs expert wouldn't do that.Ā shame on me!Ā that red against white/natural looks great.Ā ha, I was going to give you a "haha" reaction but apparently I've run out of reactions. You were right about the fleck btw, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said: ha, I was going to give you a "haha" reaction but apparently I've run out of reactions. You were right about the fleck btw, looks great! this tyranny that is the limited supply of reactions must not stand!Ā I'm a big fan of all things fleck... wood fleck, bela fleck... it's all good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 10 hours ago, Bizman62 said: Your plan doing the poly first sounds viable. Oil shouldn't stick to poly, nor go beneath it to push it off. Use masking tape as Andy said to protect the areas to be oiled. And if you get poly in a wrong place you should be able to scrape it off. Yes. I've done this many times with nitro and an oiled neck/fretboard. The oil wipes right off the previous finish, and the transition between the two is invisible. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 12 hours ago, ScottR said: Yes. I've done this many times with nitro and an oiled neck/fretboard. The oil wipes right off the previous finish, and the transition between the two is invisible. SR Thanks Scott, polying the body first and oiling the neck after is the route I will go down. I've sealed the back and sides now and the headstock is signed and sealed Ā Kicking myself a bit for getting sapwood in there, but when I glued that up I was young and stupid. There are a lot of hairline cracks and imperfections in the body. If I'd have known then what I know now, then I would have sent the blanks back, but even with all the imperfections and poor joinery, the wood still looks epic. This was my third build and it's second iteration so I've dubbed it the 3.2, ties in nicely with my affinity for TT's Ā On to sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 Hmmm glaring error there. You signed it with your username. Now we don't know what A.D. stands for, unless that's actually the name youĀ goĀ by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 42 minutes ago, komodo said: Hmmm glaring error there. You signed it with your username. Now we don't know what A.D. stands for, unless that's actually the name youĀ goĀ by. Lol theyāre my initials, itās all above boardĀ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 A more serious error is that it looks like you're having the tuners upside down. Not a big problem per se, but it may affect tuning stability and cause the gear to wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 7 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: A more serious error is that it looks like you're having the tuners upside down. Not a big problem per se, but it may affect tuning stability and cause the gear to wear. They're not upside down, the locator pin on Sperzels is at the top.Ā 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 After much sanding of the back and sides, I applied the first coat of wipe on poly, thinned down to about 60/40 poly/white spirit.Ā Vaguely following Andyās tutorial (which is awesome and I recommend reading it),Ā i wiped as little as possible using a newĀ micro fibre towel that I washed and tumble dried, wrappedĀ it around 2 fingers, dipped in finish and did long gentle passes. There is a bit of streaking visible but Iām planning to do lots of thin coats and gently rub after each with 0000 wire wool. The sealer did an amazing job -Ā I did around 10 mist coats with the spray can and gently rubbed back a few times between those coats to smooth it all off andĀ no colour came off on the towel, where as when I did the tester and brushed on sealer, I ended up with a pink brush. But itās wxpensive stuff that doesnāt go very far. Iāve done 2 testers, this top and the back of the headstock and the can is empty, so one can per guitar if I can get it half as shiny as this then I shall be delighted Ā 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 @Andyjr1515Ā when applying wipe on poly as per your tutorial, I'm trying to do the top first, then back and sides after. Is it better to do one coat on the top, let it dry, then do one coat on the back and sides to build up 1 coat all over the body at a time, or is it ok to do several coats on the top before doing several coats on the back and sides?Ā FYI I'm using a minwax gloss wipe-on poly thinned down with white spiritĀ Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 17, 2019 Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said: @Andyjr1515Ā when applying wipe on poly as per your tutorial, I'm trying to do the top first, then back and sides after. Is it better to do one coat on the top, let it dry, then do one coat on the back and sides to build up 1 coat all over the body at a time, or is it ok to do several coats on the top before doing several coats on the back and sides?Ā FYI I'm using a minwax gloss wipe-on poly thinned down with white spiritĀ Cheers Hi @ADFinlayson I actually do back and sides and then top and sides! In a bit more detail: I apply the wipe-on with the guitar body flat and sitting on something smaller than the periphery but which raises it up a few inches.Ā I generally use a shoe-box or similar but it can be anything I start with a thin wipe on the sides, then do the back first I then blend the back edge in with the sides I then run round the sides again with the varnish-wet cloth, but not reloaded with fresh varnish - it is to fully blend the sides in and remove any drips that might be forming I finish with a run round the bottom edge of the sides (that is, the edge that meets the top).Ā Again, this will be where drips will form After a few minutes, I run my finger round that bottom edge to wipe off any excess that could form a drip. Ā I let it dry (overnight) and then turn it over and repeat this whole process but this time it is the top and sides Ā I repeat until I have my required level of gloss, then ensure that the final coat - done exactly as above - is the top and sides. This ensures that any final blend evidence that may need to be polished off will be along the back edge of the guitar and the varnish from the top, then round the edge to the sides is pristine. Does that explanation make any sense? Edited April 17, 2019 by Andyjr1515 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 5 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Hi @ADFinlayson I actually do back and sides and then top and sides! In a bit more detail: I apply the wipe-on with the guitar body flat and sitting on something smaller than the periphery but which raises it up a few inches.Ā I generally use a shoe-box or similar but it can be anything I start with a thin wipe on the sides, then do the back first I then blend the back edge in with the sides I then run round the sides again with the varnish-wet cloth, but not reloaded with fresh varnish - it is to fully blend the sides in and remove any drips that might be forming I finish with a run round the bottom edge of the sides (that is, the edge that meets the top).Ā Again, this will be where drips will form After a few minutes, I run my finger round that bottom edge to wipe off any excess that could form a drip. Ā I let it dry (overnight) and then turn it over and repeat this whole process but this time it is the top and sides Ā I repeat until I have my required level of gloss, then ensure that the final coat - done exactly as above - is the top and sides. This ensures that any final blend evidence that may need to be polished off will be along the back edge of the guitar and the varnish from the top, then round the edge to the sides is pristine. Does that explanation make any sense? Dude that's a massive help, thanks so much Ā My rationale for doing the top first was to protect it when it's turned over (just in case) but I didn't do the sides, I did however do the edges of the top with an unloaded cloth as you suggested. So I'll do the sides and back, then go back to top and sides. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 17, 2019 Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 It's looking great, by the way. By the way (UK relevant) - the microfibre cloths that Homebase and Sainsburys sell have changed slightly and I find it more difficult to not create ridges.Ā I've found some white lint-free cloths in Halfords (I think they come in packs of 4) which actually seem to work very well.Ā I've also had good success with the fan-type artist's brushes - the cheap ones from Hobby Craft will do just as well as the more expensive ones: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 @Andyjr1515Ā thanks, the microfibre towels I'm using look identical to the ones in your tutorial pics - 10 pack on amazon for Ā£6.45! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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