Urumiko Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 On 7/23/2019 at 5:47 PM, Bizman62 said: Well done! Thank you, I worry my lack of experience and sedate style might put people off but i have a few regular viewers so i'm happy.. As for the carving I intend to use a grinder with a flapper, and you might be right. I think keeping a curve continuous over the holes may be tricky. I might put the offcuts back in the holes while carving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 this is a topic i have stuggled w quite a bit... (pardon the pun) and have respect for those who cut them out manually. lot of work. I hope to have more success on this in the near future using a pattern and 1/8" shank w 1/16" router bit. was a fun watch. nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 My next do i/ dont i, is whether to carve or route for pickups first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 On 7/26/2019 at 9:22 AM, Urumiko said: Thank you, I worry my lack of experience and sedate style might put people off but i have a few regular viewers so i'm happy.. As for the carving I intend to use a grinder with a flapper, and you might be right. I think keeping a curve continuous over the holes may be tricky. I might put the offcuts back in the holes while carving? If you're using a flap disc, I honestly don't think you will need to worry about the f-hole, it will just magically cave in the same shape as the rest of it. Using gouges etc would be a different story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 (edited) On 7/26/2019 at 11:22 AM, Urumiko said: I might put the offcuts back in the holes while carving? That might be a good idea. Although, as Sir Ash said, the flapper may not pose any issues, it might grab and rip a piece off. After all there's a couple of sharp corners in the holes. If you end up using the offcuts, applying a few layers of masking tape around the edge might tighten the gap enough for a smooth sanding. Edited July 29, 2019 by Bizman62 Inserted text to wrong place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 On 7/26/2019 at 5:35 PM, Urumiko said: My next do i/ dont i, is whether to carve or route for pickups first. If you're sticking to the traditional PRS style carve, the very centre of the top is flat (as apposed to arched like a les paul), so you can easily stick pickup route templates to the top and safely route. I would recommend you carve the top and stick it to the body before you do your pickup routes though, because if you route the pickups prior to sticking, you will lose the screw holes you've been using to locate the top - You definitely need those because both your top and body are at final dimensions. My process on the red one was to carve the top, then stick it to the body, then plane in neck break angle, then route pickup cavities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted August 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2019 OK. I won't Lie.... I crack myself up lol. Things are getting interesting now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted August 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 Latest vid is up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 First and foremost, your way of balancing your speaking, the music and the tool noise is just perfect! When you're working, the tool noise is just loud enough to tell that there is something really noisy going on, yet the music keeps the viewer entertained. Similarly, when you speak the music can be heard but the main role is given to words. Very well done! Second, I didn't even dare thinking to ask my wife about the grinding... I managed to chuckle silently enough not to catch her attention. Love those comments! For the f-holes: As you may have learned from a certain tattooed bloke, thin edges are just sexy. Just slant the inside of them in a 45 deg angle to a couple of millimetres of rounded thickness. If you're worried about the edge, glue a piece of cloth over the hole on the inside, cut the hole and sand the edges so the cloth fibres can't be seen. Something like the thickness of nylon stockings but maybe not as stretchy. See image... For fine shaping, a square cabinet scraper is perfect for the outside, a kidney shaped for the inside. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted August 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 Thank You @Bizman62 I must Admit I'm finding the low viewer numbers a little disheartening for all the effort it takes to edit these videos, but your comments made me smile. It's nice to know I made someone laugh so thank you. I shall try and keep the humour going. Especially for the longer videos. Just a random thought, If you like that kind of humour and you like old car restoration, you may enjoy the channel "Bad obsession Motorsport" on Youtube. As for you Carving Idea.... That's genius, I didn't think of that! By tattooed bloke do you mean @ADFinlayson ? Ash already suggested I should thin down the edge of the holes as much as possible given my slip-up. This cements further in my mind how I should approach it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 8 hours ago, Urumiko said: By tattooed bloke do you mean @ADFinlayson ? Hmm... I think you know I rather meant the guy whose tips and tricks on YouTube all three of us have seen. One more trick you might have found useful is marking the thickness of a top that's carved both sides. If I heard right you mentioned that it's rather difficult not to carve the top too thin. A pillar drill is your friend there: Simply put a knob on the table so you can freely tilt the carved outside. Then adjust a drill bit with the depth stopper so that the bit stops at the desired thickness. After that, simply drill a good bunch of holes to the inside and carve along the bottoms. Just be cautious about the stopper not getting loose, I've drilled one hole through the top on my current build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted August 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Also a handy tip thank you. MS Paint lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Get your search keywords and video descriptions right and you will get more search impressions. Include the jobs you're doing, wood you're using, tools you're using etc in both the description and the keywords. Make sure the title is descriptive as possible. Sometimes you just get lucky if you type headstock angle into youtube search, one of your videos is on the first page, but your thumbnail is completely unrelated to cutting a headstock angle, so it might get good impressions in search but that won't convert to views if your thumbnail isn't inviting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 6 hours ago, Urumiko said: MS Paint lol. Fast and dirty, just like my *** life. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Interesting video. Decent looking result as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted September 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 Latest video is up. Warning.... contains scenes of shocking use of a pillar drill... LOL. I def think i'll use the method @Bizman62 suggested or similar for thicknessing the top next time as its proving tricky. I think im getting to the point where im ready to accept imperfaction and move on though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 12, 2019 Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 Some scary stuff there! Where was the warning for unsafe methods? For the pillar drill work: If you can't clamp it, you could at least add to the friction to keep your workpiece stable. The rubbery Anti-Slip mesh sold to keep phones on the dashboard might be handy. You can get it more inexpensively at automotive stores as Trunk Mat. For the f-holes I would have used sandpaper. A folded piece would follow nicely the curves, a rolled one would fit the ends. Your gouging looked like a major chunk would get ripped off any minute! For the inside you could have used the curved scraper. For more delicate work a special sanding block would have been useful: A simple slat of wood with a curved end, sandpaper attached with masking tape and super glue. Like so: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted October 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 Latest epp is up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHTjAdVxqZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 18, 2019 Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 Again, perfection in sound balance! Great minds think alike: Seeing the flat board under the body immediately made me think about gluing sandpaper on it for flattening the cap. As you noticed, your method took off more from the edges than the centre. That would have been easily avoided if you had screwed a piece of 2x2" as a handle using the holes you already had there. Maybe next time? The wedges were a clever idea! But why didn't you reattach the wedge? Or was the gap really only in the rim? Eagerly waiting for the next episode! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted October 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 Haha great minds really do think alike @Bizman62 @ADFinlayson suggested the board to me while i was contemplating it. I though of that exact thing (adding the handle) and suggested it back to him as he was doing it in one of his.. You are right. I was aware at the time but there wasn't really a gap to speak of so i figured it wasn't necessary. I think i said in the video (maybe not) that i ran out of clamps. I was struggling in other areas so used the clamp there... I could have re arranged them a bit but there was no gap so i figured id be ok. Thanks for your compliments about the sound. I think i will have the video fixed for next time. Ive been a damn fool. Been watching American vids on electronics that long i completely forgot uk AC runs at 50hz not 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 The video was just fine, I've seen worse. Just imagine filming the view from a small propeller plane! If you haven' seen those I can tell that the propeller just looks weird, all twisted and slow motion instead of the see-through round thing without any details. I'm interested about your camera overheating issues, as you seem to mention that in each and every video. Your shed can't be that hot. After all the cameras should work in Africa as well, shouldn't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted October 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 9 hours ago, Bizman62 said: I'm interested about your camera overheating issues, as you seem to mention that in each and every video. Your shed can't be that hot. After all the cameras should work in Africa as well, shouldn't they? Its a common issue on most of the Sony stills cameras. If you try and run them at the absolute maximum quality they overheat after a while. They are not really designed to be used as video cameras for extended periods. 1080p at 60fps is the absolute maximum that camera can handle. It never used to do it but I used to film at a lower frame rate. I'm switching back to a lower frame rate going forward so it shouldn't be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 Thanks for the info. That explains a lot. Is there any possibility to glue a heat sink somewhere on it with some heat conducting adhesive? If not, some sort of a cradle with a fan might be an option. Something like a piece of plastic tube with a fan in the rear far enough not to cause issues... An image worth 1000 words: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urumiko Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 I started carving my first neck pocket. I'm curious, does anyone just use a forstner bit and chisels to do theirs? I found refining the pocket by hand quite theraputic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 Was it because of the weather getting colder but you didn't mention the camera overheating at all! This project has been very interesting to watch, there's so many things that may go terribly wrong and cause an utter disaster. It's a learning process both for you and us! Eagerly waiting for the next episode... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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