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First build - Hollow Custom 22.


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Isn't your mitre box deep enough for the entire neck to use the actual template in the way it's designed? I understand it would be fiddly to attach it, both because of adjusting alogn the centre line and because of the headstock angle. However, a wedge and some masking tape and super glue should do the trick. Also, looking at your mitre box replacing the top guides with thicker/taller ones shouldn't be too much of an effort, allowing for a more precise angle.

As I understand it you're going to saw through the binding. Note that if you nib the tangs there'll be more space for the glue and dust to hide the slot ends. You may have known that already but repetition is the mother of learning.

AFA the small hole in the neck, why not make it a feature? Drill it a tad bigger and use a plug bit to make a decorative plug, or simply just inlay a similar dot you're going to use on the fretboard - assuming you're not going to inlay birds...

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Funnily enough I had all three of those thoughts :)

The mitre box is too shallow I could extend the height of it fairly easily with some shims.. but I think I will be ok if I just measure carefully and take my time.

The idea for plugging the hole is cool but I couldn't think of anything that I thought would look right and be an easy fit.

Thanks as always for watching.

Having a bit of a head scratched at the moment. I can't seem to pick up new subscribers :(

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10 hours ago, Urumiko said:

Funnily enough I had all three of those thoughts

Great minds think alike...

Regarding new subscribers, I noticed that Ash has got quite a many. Knowing he builds one for you, wouldn't it be nice from him to link to your channel with a notification like "Instead of struggling like him, buy from me" 😆

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Lol. Yeah I don't think there is much between me n ash in terms of quality of vids any more, although I'm slightly jealous of his multi camera setup. I have a tendency to talk a lot more about my thoughts which I think could bore some people but interest others. I think the main difference is he puts in several hours a night and I only put in a couple of hours a week if that. So by this point despite starting around the same time he's many builds in and has more experience to pass on. He sounds a lot more like he knows what he's doing, where as I'm just learning. I think most people want taught how to do stuff. I suppose on a subscriber to guitars produced ratio I'm still winning though🤣

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2 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Great minds think alike...

Regarding new subscribers, I noticed that Ash has got quite a many. Knowing he builds one for you, wouldn't it be nice from him to link to your channel with a notification like "Instead of struggling like him, buy from me" 😆

David was talking about doing some filming when he comes to collect the guitar, so when he does a video on that, I will give it a mention :) 

My camera setup is just a gopro 4 and an iphone 8, sometimes 2 iPhones instead of the gopro if I can steel the Mrs phone. So you could do 2 cameras, even if your phone camera isn't up to much you could use it for extreme close up stuff so the details get picked up anyway.  Only thing to note about a second camera is it is not x2 the editing, it's more like 3x or 4x the editing.

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25 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

David was talking about doing some filming when he comes to collect the guitar,

 

Finlayson factory tour... lol

Yeah I actually bought a 2nd hand Coolpix type camera that I want to permanently mount above the bench as a 2nd cam.
I also have a google pixel phone that films better than my SLR in some respects.
Its just a bit confined for space in the shed, and my time is limited enough without faffing with 3 cameras. lol

All these plans hinging on getting the new workshop space sorted.

The optimum tripod position is also the optimum place to stand.
One thing that's worth noting: I think is Me n Thee both have our benches against the wall.

If you have a bench in the center or the room, a la mr Crowe it makes it a lot easier to get the camera in close without being in the way.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I almost forgot to watch this episode as I didn't have the time when I first saw your post and to my knowledge there's no way to make posts unread.

Anyhow, nice as always. What I kept wondering was that you relied on your pencil marks instead of cutting the lines with a knife or an awl for giving the saw a groove to start within.

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44 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I almost forgot to watch this episode as I didn't have the time when I first saw your post and to my knowledge there's no way to make posts unread.

Anyhow, nice as always. What I kept wondering was that you relied on your pencil marks instead of cutting the lines with a knife or an awl for giving the saw a groove to start within.

Fair comment. I did go over the lines with a blade but to be honest the blade was much thinner than the saw so didn't do much to get it started.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Nice to see you challenging yourself again!

I wonder if...

  • ... you could have cut 1.6 mm slices off each board?
  • ... you could have used the scraper for thicknessing the strips?
  • ... you looked for binding/purfling strips of suitable colours?

 

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3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Nice to see you challenging yourself again!

I wonder if...

  • ... you could have cut 1.6 mm slices off each board?
    • I doubt i could cut that accurate. If my band saw was up and running i would have used it to get closer so i didnt have to sand as much.
  • ... you could have used the scraper for thicknessing the strips?
    • yes absolutely but scrapers are flexible so i'd probably have had to sand the last little bit to avoid dipping below the guide.
  • ... you looked for binding/purfling strips of suitable colours?
    • Yeah. This was my first thought. I'd have preferred to use dyed maple, but my main concern was that I couldn't be sure if the dye would 100% penetrate the wood before I started sanding it down. I'm sure it would be possible though.

 

 

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4 hours ago, RonMay said:

I didn't know anyone has channels for building here. I'm following now though. I can probably learn a lot through them

Thanks for posting. :)

Ron

Thanks Ron. A.d finlayson who is on here too has a YouTube channel also. Not sure if there are others.

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A good result on a very ambitious step.  I look forward go seeing the finished board :)

I think you were right in your choice of materials - standard stains don't penetrate deep enough...the colour would have disappeared at almost the first stroke of the scraper ;)

 

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  • 4 months later...

I've been missing you!

The epoxy thing was most likely the best way to do the heartbeat and for a first build it looks great! Not perfect but definitely better than the amateur restorations in Spain... I especially like the wavy segments.

I wonder if you could have used some sort of fences to guide your Dremel router along the longer strokes - something like a single piece of flexible plastic to follow the radius attached with double sided tape, reattached to a new location where needed.

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1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

I've been missing you!

Aww, thanks mate.

Yeah I definitely considered a fence and templates. Frankly I just knew it would end up a massively over complex time hole when I'm taking so long as it is. I think inlaying like this would be better if done pre radius. Or I could have perhaps took my time with hand tools.

What I should have done really was construct the whole thing in plastic then inlay it one fret segment as a time I reckon.

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By fence I meant something really lightweight and temporary. As the dremel router requires both hands for stability holding a stick with one hand was soon dropped from my list of ideas but even a folded piece of tape might have given you the extra support needed for long straight runs.

Another idea that popped into my mind was to cover the entire fretboard with tape to make removing the excess epoxy easier. The way you could rasp and file down to the taped areas looked very safe! I don't know how well you could route through the tape but if that doesn't work, masking the fingerboard after routing and cutting the tape off the routed lines with a scalpel shouldn't be too difficult of a task. Definitely much easier than trying to cover all fret slots individually!

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