matarroano Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Hallo! 1st post! Greetings to all fellow forum members! So... Seems I just added "character", "history" and "personality" to one of my guitars... BIG TIME! Schaller locks are to blame! Yeah, yeah, should have check the drill size first. Now I now... <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/FyknaKA"><a href="//imgur.com/FyknaKA"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> So.... I plan on "DIY repair" this! I've read about nail polish, super glue, epoxy, layering and lot's of other "techniques". Which one would you recommend? The one that gives best results "cosmetically". I've read about some "specialty luthier supplies" that are great for this job. Recommend any? Also any links or "how to" videos I should use as reference? Any and all ideas and advice are very much welcomed! Thanks in advance! Greetings, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Is it just me, but I can't see any images, only code. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 yeah... the anchor doesn't have a correct href either (yes I did roll the dice on it). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matarroano Posted May 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2019 Well... I can't seem to be able to edit my original post so, here goes nothing! So, I ended up choosing the "easiest and conservative route". 1.: First, since I had all the chips, gluing them back using basic "superglue": 2. and 3.: The following steps will be a solution that is a "combination" of both these videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8m1rKJjRqM I'm getting some sandpaper, micro-mesh pads, and something to buff it to perfection... But, before I fill the "spaces" with the black Gluboost Fill n Finish Black Scratch Repair I would like to try to remove the big amounts of superglue leftovers that are now on the finish. It looks pretty sloppy but it really isn't... UPDATE: So... I think "Stage 1" is close to complete. Acetone proved "safe" (remember this is a polyester finish, not a polyuretane one) and I proceeded to clean the Super Glue residues with a combination of acetone rubbing and light scraping with a razor blade to achieve this result: The razor blade left some scratching and the surface isn't flawlessly seamless. Shine is totally gone in the area I'm working at. NEXT: GluBoost Glu Dry Acelerador and GluBoost Fill n' Finish to fill the cracks, using this video as reference: What do you think? I "happy enough" on how I'm doing so far... What do tou think? Any input and advice? Thanks in advance! Cheers, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted May 12, 2019 Report Share Posted May 12, 2019 (edited) I've seen a similar video to the upper one. Gluing the pieces back and fixing the seams would have been my choice as well. That Gluboost thing sure looks nice on the video. Looking at their site they also know how to take your money! I'd just continue with method #1, applying acetone based colour (I've successfully used a black Sharpie instead of buying black powder dye for such a small job, it only has to dry properly before applying glue to prevent bubbling) and superglue in turns until you've filled all the cracks, then scrape and sand it flush. Hint: Put a tooth pick into the screw hole. If you use glue and cut it level with the finish you'll have a solid base for drilling a hole for the screw. Edited May 12, 2019 by Bizman62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted May 12, 2019 Report Share Posted May 12, 2019 1 hour ago, matarroano said: Well... I can't seem to be able to edit my original post so, here goes nothing! So, I ended up choosing the "easiest and conservative route". 1.: First, since I had all the chips, gluing them back using basic "superglue": 2. and 3.: The following steps will be a solution that is a "combination" of both these videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8m1rKJjRqM I'm getting some sandpaper, micro-mesh pads, and something to buff it to perfection... But, before I fill the "spaces" with the black Gluboost Fill n Finish Black Scratch Repair I would like to try to remove the big amounts of superglue leftovers that are now on the finish. It looks pretty sloppy but it really isn't... UPDATE: So... I think "Stage 1" is close to complete. Acetone proved "safe" (remember this is a polyester finish, not a polyuretane one) and I proceeded to clean the Super Glue residues with a combination of acetone rubbing and light scraping with a razor blade to achieve this result: The razor blade left some scratching and the surface isn't flawlessly seamless. Shine is totally gone in the area I'm working at. NEXT: GluBoost Glu Dry Acelerador and GluBoost Fill n' Finish to fill the cracks, using this video as reference: What do you think? I "happy enough" on how I'm doing so far... What do tou think? Any input and advice? Thanks in advance! Cheers, looks like you are just a few steps away from 'invisible' so... i guess just keep following your instincts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matarroano Posted June 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2019 So... STAGE 3!!! I filled the cracks with GluBoost Fill n' Finish, also using GluBoost Glu Dry Acelerador. It was a great product to work with. Seems like it does do the job. BUT! I wish I didn't use the "soldering build up technique". Too much material to sand-off... It will mean much more additional work. I would like to have gone "thinner". Well.. Nothing I can do about it now. Nevertheless, I'm really happy about what I am achieving. And actually... This is giving me pleasure (!?). I can't wait to do some additional cracking and blasting off!! ;D NEXT IS A MIX OF WET/DRY MIX OF SANDING AND MICRO-MESHING. Keep your comments and input coming! It is really more than welcomed. Thanks in advance! Greetings, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 1, 2019 Report Share Posted June 1, 2019 1 hour ago, matarroano said: Too much material to sand-off... It will mean much more additional work. You should be happy about that. There's few more annoying things than finding out that the patch you just made is a hair too small. Fixing such would take much more time than reshaping the excess. Well done! Now I'm just waiting to see how invisible the damage will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matarroano Posted June 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2019 1 hour ago, Bizman62 said: You should be happy about that. There's few more annoying things than finding out that the patch you just made is a hair too small. Fixing such would take much more time than reshaping the excess. Well done! Now I'm just waiting to see how invisible the damage will be. So... I guess I did good. That's what I though when I started layering. That "extra-complete" coverage would assure that ALL the cracks were guaranteed to be covered. So, props to me, despite my inexperience... And thanks Bizman62 for the confidence and reassurance! I'll keep posting my progress. Time to order the needed adicional supplies for the last stages... Any tips on the sanding? I guess no more razor blade scraping, right? A little? None? As far as something for the last stages of buffing and polishing is there a particular product you would advise? Auto body polish? Something "guitar-specific"? "Something black", right? Let me know. Thanks in advance. Thanks everyone for their input and support! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 13 hours ago, matarroano said: Any tips on the sanding? A solid block and sandpaper of various grits, it's as simple as that. A razor blade isn't handy in such small curves, it works best on blobs on a flat surface. You can start with a file to knock the highest ridges off but a block or a beam is as good. Just make sure you keep the shape intact, you don't want any flat spots below the original curvature. Change to a finer grit early enough to avoid deep scratches below the original level. When the shape is good enough, change to wet paper. Continue by trying to avoid the original finish until you're up to some 1000 grit and up - that's about the time you start to blend the fix in. Go up with the grits as high as you can find, or use some rubbing compound which can be used already after p1500 although in this case I'd go up to 2000 or higher. Alternatively you can get abrasive pads up to 6000 or even higher, but even after those some rubbing compound is needed for the final buffing. Car paint renovators are good and cost effective. Don't fall for the multi-step products, they're for car show nitpickers. A cheap single tube or can is all you need there. I'd buy the cheapest from those: https://autoquarterly.com/best-rubbing-compounds/ For final polishing a good wax will finish the job. I wouldn't use anything with silicon in it, a basic carnauba wax for cars and/or furniture will make it shinier than new. You can even mix one yourself if you want to be sure of the contents, all it takes is some mineral spirit and carnauba for hardness and beeswax for making it softer. The colour is irrelevant since the patch already is black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matarroano Posted September 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 Hi! So I did go forward it the above method to have this repaired. Mixed results... It was a little harder than I thought it would.. After drying I proceeded to sand using different grits. It looked great but suddenly these "brown spots" started to appear mysteriously. With some kind of "transparent glassy flaking" also... I think it was due to bad preparing (?) of the surfaces.... I ended up having to have it re-worded several times. Now I think I'm done. It's "good enough." I think "perfect" is never going to be achieved. I'm done with this.... Here's what I got now: Nevertheless, I would like to hear your thoughts on this... What happened? And now, how do I get rid of these "hairline joints" and scratched surface? What polish method and materials should I use for the final polishing and buffing? Auto polish? Speciality polish? Any black polish? You should notice the "bad spot" still showing will be covered by the lock nut so... I guess after the polish I will be fine.. I want to get done with this and just play the damn thing! :) Any and all thoughts and ideas on this are very much welcomed! Thanks in advance. Cheers, " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 2 hours ago, matarroano said: "brown spots" started to appear mysteriously. Looks like you sanded through the paint to bare wood there. 2 hours ago, matarroano said: "transparent glassy flaking" That sounds like either there was a clearcoat over the black paint or a clear filler under the paint. From your first images I'd guess the former. I see tiny holes in the final result. Those look like bubbles and if they are, that's because the stuff hardened before the bubbles came out and the surface leveled itself. If that's resin , some heat might have helped while curing. For some other stuff a lower temperature might have slowed the hardening process so that the bubbles would have enough time to fully pop. Totally opposite options! Just for a make-up, get a black wax crayon, colour all the problem areas so that there's some build-up and polish the surface shiny with a disposable cloth. Get some wax suitable for cars and furniture - carnauba is good, silicone is a definite no-no - and polish the entire guitar to blend the fix in. Play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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